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#1
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Anyone with R&R M104 intake manifold experience
How involved is this procedure?
Besides the gasket are there any other parts that should be replaced or refreshed while it is apart? How heavy is the manifold with all its attachments? I'm wondering what happens after the last bolt is out and trying to position it again to bolt it back in. TIA, glenmore 1991 300CE |
#2
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It is not that bad - more of a pia than anything else. The fasteners and hoses underneath are the hardest part. There is one in particular that is really hard to get to. I think there are o-rings in there instead of a gasket. Make sure you clean out the egr port real well. Why are you removing it?
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Jim |
#3
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While it's off, it's a good time to clean the egr tube at the lower manifold inlet and clean the throttle body bore. It's also a good time to reposition all the hose clamps to make them accessible with the manifold is installed. The intake manifold itself should be clean.
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95 E320 Cabriolet, 159K |
#4
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Jim,
You won't believe the reason for having to take this manifold off....to replace a $10 hose. Poor engineering at its best. Later engines have 2 steel lines that are accessible from underneath. I have an increasingly bad coolant leak at this hose that runs from rear of the block to the oil filter housing. It is a small 1" diameter hose shaped like a "V". The other line is a steel line from the water pump to the oil filter and has two "o" rings that sometimes leak. There is no access from below. The hose is directly beneath the second (from firewall) intake pipe. You could conceiveably get the hose clamp off at the block end but the clamp at the oil filter is impossible to get to. Thanks for your help, glenmore |
#5
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There are many posts here about cleaning out the EGR port, one of which is to take the tube off at the valve and snake a speedometer cable through it.
What happens to the gunk that is knocked loose with this method? |
#6
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This loose gunk probably gets passed harmlessly through the engine. I don't get too excited about that since this material is "soft" carbonaceous material and isn't considered abrasive. It's similar to the deposits that already exist in the combustion chamber.
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95 E320 Cabriolet, 159K |
#7
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Join the club my friend,I just got my car back form the mechanic yesterday for the same problem.A $17 u shaped hose that end up costing me $700.No access from the bottom so from the top the injection system,exhaust manifold have to be removed.
Big job for such a small problem!$200 in parts and $500 in labour. |
#8
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Hi 300E24V,
Yes, that is what I am facing. What other parts besides the hose and manifold gasket did they replace? That will help me a lot in what to expect. They probably changed the 2 "o" rings for the line that leads to the water pump. Thanks, glenmore 1991 300CE |
#9
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I recently did a complete valve job on a 1992 300CE.The intake manifold is very light.It has locators to align it when installing.I replaced the rubber hose and the o rings while I had it off for the cylinder head removal and installation. Just mark your vacuum hoses etc and it actually is a pretty easy job.Not a bad time to check your water pump while the intake is removed.
Phillip 1999 C43 |
#10
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supermech2001,
I am going for it, bright and early tomorrow morning! I am pretty much a complete novice here, so what am I looking for when checking the water pump? Thanks, glenmore |
#11
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How many miles are on it Glenmore. If you are coming up on around 150k I would be inclined to replace the water pump. With the intake off it exposes a pretty straight shot to the rear most water pump fasteners which are a pia to get to with the manifold on. You will see when you get it off. Would be an ideal time to replace it.
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Jim |
#12
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Hi Glenmore,
They replaced the o-rings you mentioned,the manifold gasket($48),u shaped rubber hose($17),engine oil and filter,coolant and an L-shaped vacuum pipe. $200 in parts and $500 in labour. Plz let me know how you go! |
#13
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Jim,
Just passed 124,051 miles (appropriate for my 124.051 chassis!). I only have PO records back to 87745, the only thing I see regarding the water pump is replacement of the water pump pulley at 87745. I do see a little dried coolant on the water pump housing just below the really short 2" hose leading left to the block from the water pump. Don't know if I'll be able to handle the pump too at this time. I'm gonna study my manuals now! Thanks all, glenmore |
#14
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I was defeated. I started bright and early but by mid-day I was getting discouraged. I got all the electrical connections off. A small pen knife and patience is the key here. These plastic connections are all very brittle. Cracked a part of one connection but it still holds. Removed throttle linkage, disconnected fuel lines, brackets and EGV line underneath. The two manifold bolts at either end are a real pain. I got stuck with the last manifold bolt in the center under an air line. Thinking that this black air hose was rubber, I broke part of it trying to ease it out of the way. It is actually hard plastic and very brittle. At this point I realized I’d better stop before really breaking something. I was by myself and I didn’t think I could actually lift it all out anyways. So I put it all back together. Broke another clip just pushing it on and was relieved the car started OK.
The story doesn’t end too badly. Yesterday I drove out to Mr.MB, Tarzana, CA and Enrique was able to help me. He said that hose is a real PITA but can be done without pulling the intake manifold. His tech worked on it from above with small tools and a mirror and was done in about an hour and a half. $195. No parts other than the hose and clamps that I already had. After the disappointing weekend, first thing Monday morning I started looking for some more tools that would make my life much easier. I came across some Stahlwille flexible hose clamp drivers which would make this repair much easier. So if you ever have this problem, it can be done for about $10 in parts, without removing the manifold. glenmore 1991 300CE |
#15
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Hose Clamp Driver Source?
just wondering where you are getting these? I could use a set myself - those 7mm nuts can be hard to get to without a flex drive!
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