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  #1  
Old 10-07-2003, 10:50 PM
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Self Leveling Rear Suspension Fluid Replacement

Hi All,

Car is the '92 300TE

3 Questions on Hydraulic Suspensions:
1) I know they self bleed and have read the procedures with and without the control arm attached. Do they also simply self bleed with some use on the road, or would you need to use it on the road both with and without a load?
2) My fluid is filthy and dark. What is the most thorough way to flush it? Do I need to bleed at the valve at the rear as well as the 'feed and flush' at the tank, or is the tank good enough.
3) How many filters are there? (I know the one in the tank, but are there some other little ones?

My story:
I replaced my nitrogen air cells (accumulators) this weekend. While not difficult, this was time consuming and a messy messy messy job (I had to wash my arms, face, neck and hair with GOJO.) I bled a liter of fluid off (well, it foamed like soap suds actually, but turned into fluid a few minutes later), but the driver's side still sprayed all over me. Not to mention that time I rested my head on the oil soaked rag instead of the cleaner one. (~_-). I only saved 2-3 hours of dealer labor, so that's good money, but maybe not worth it for me as a DIY. I think I usually save the most $ working on those annoying interior fixes, like door check straps, etc. Probably should have continued the job straight through to a fluid replacement, but it was late so I topped it off. I used new fluid because the old stuff was so dark, I could not bear the thought of putting it back in.

By the way, Car ride is beautiful now. I am in love all over again.
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1986 300E Anthracite + ECodes + MB Mileage Award
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  #2  
Old 10-08-2003, 12:29 AM
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Not sure how the 92 TE SLS is set up, but on the 560 here is how I flush.

Remove the return line and open the top to the resevoir ( the return line attaches to the lid and has to be removed to completely remove lid), Attach a section of clear tubing to the return line, place other end in an empty milk jug. Have several quarts of MB hydraulic fluid on hand and near the car. Start engine and let idle, the fluid will begin pumping through the system and collecting in the jug. Keep the resevoir topped up with fresh fluid while it is being pumped into the jug. As soon as fresh fluid comes out of the return line (that is why you used clear tubing), shut the engine off. Flush complete. The main filter resides in the resevoir, directly under the cap. Replace filter, top up to the full mark, install cap and return line, job done.

Again, the process might be slightly different on your model, but this should be close enough for government work.
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  #3  
Old 10-08-2003, 05:08 AM
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Yep, that process will work for the W124 TE's. My only additions:

If you have a vaccuum-pump/turkey baster, I would suck out all the old fluid from the resevoir. If the resevoir is dirty, remove it and clean it out with brake cleaner, and let it dry completely.

Then install a NEW filter and fill-her up for a flush. Should take about 1-1.5 liters to flush.

:-) neil
1988 360TE AMG
1993 500E
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  #4  
Old 10-19-2003, 12:49 AM
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thanks
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  #5  
Old 10-22-2003, 09:01 AM
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Hello D2Bernhard,

The description above is exactly the way I did it.
I sucked out the reservoir with an old hand pump normally used to fill a rear axle or tranny. The only filter under the lid is easely cleaned out. Idling the engine is all you need to flush and remove any air.
Very recommanded once a year!
Danny
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  #6  
Old 10-22-2003, 09:09 AM
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i have a 190e 2.5 16v, i am going to be replacing the diff soon with a replacement. the car has asd so is in the same hydrauli system as the sls rear end. becasue i have to break the system to install the new diff i assume i will have to bleed/flush the system afterwards. will this procudure work on my car, i noticed a bleed valve on the diff itselft but seeing as its a return valve system MikeTangas suggestion seems like a good idea for me as well. can someone confirm? many thanks, steve.
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  #7  
Old 10-22-2003, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Uk Merc Man
i have a 190e 2.5 16v, i am going to be replacing the diff soon with a replacement. the car has asd so is in the same hydrauli system as the sls rear end. becasue i have to break the system to install the new diff i assume i will have to bleed/flush the system afterwards. will this procudure work on my car, i noticed a bleed valve on the diff itselft but seeing as its a return valve system MikeTangas suggestion seems like a good idea for me as well. can someone confirm? many thanks, steve.

anyone? thanks!
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  #8  
Old 10-23-2003, 03:33 AM
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bump.....
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  #9  
Old 10-23-2003, 05:20 AM
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UK Merc Man,

Have a little faith in the MB (older) technology.
I am sure working on the ASD will not be more complicated than the self-levelling suspension.
Why should one system being self-bleeding and the other not ?
In fact as you mentioned : it's one hydraulic system !
Good luck and don't forget to share your experience with us !

Danny
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  #10  
Old 10-27-2003, 12:58 PM
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Thanks All!

I did the deed this weekend. This was cake! One of the easiest jobs I've ever attempted.
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1986 300E Anthracite + ECodes + MB Mileage Award
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  #11  
Old 02-05-2004, 06:33 PM
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Fluid noise behind me

Perhaps those who've contributed to this thread so far can help me determine whether I've got a problem with nitrogen cells or not.

The only symptom so far is a noise behind me that sounds like a container filling with fluid, less than a minute after the car has been started after sitting for a while, lasts about 10 seconds. Suspension seems fine, ride quality seems fine, etc. I've only noticed this in the past month or so. Car doesn't move vertically or laterally while this occurs. Of course, my mechanic can't hear it.

Any ideas?
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