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  #1  
Old 08-13-2002, 04:45 PM
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W210 Rear Window Regulator

The passenger side rear window on my E300 was in the down position and would not move to the up position. Car is still in warranty so I call the dealer and was surprised to find they said this is a common problem in the W210. According to them the rear windows are heavy and if the windows are not used regularly the window regulator fails. In fact before I could finish describing the probelm the service tech said "rear window right? We always have a problem with the rear windows in this model."
So I guess I'll have to start using the rear windows more often since the car goes out of warranty soon.

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  #2  
Old 08-13-2002, 05:36 PM
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MB rear window lifters have been a problem since 1984. That is when they started using cables instead of a lifting arm. ON the W140 chassis we have done as many as 5 a DAY!
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  #3  
Old 09-30-2002, 12:40 PM
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More on W210 Rear Window Regulator

Just replaced the driver's side rear regulator this weekend. I had broken it by holding the button in the UP position too long. (That little motor has a lot of torque!) First of all, door panel was easy to get off using instructions on this board. My car is '97 E320 and the panel fastners just pop out once the three screws are removed. I found that a 1 1/2" putty knife covered with masking tape makes good tool to pry off trim and panel. Now for the parts procurement process. Dealer wanted $240 for new regulator plus motor. Said that was only way it came. Did not need motor so called Phil at PartsShop who had me a new regulator only in 2 days for $84. Worst part of the job was popping the new rivets that Phil provided. They are steel and Sears Craftsman largest pop riveter was barely up to the task. (Aluminum rivets might be easier but Mercedes are made of steel, right?) I found that a few of those clear, flexible suction gizmos for sticking things on windows or other smooth surfaces work great for holding window in whatever position you want while working on the regulator. Just wdge them into the space between the glass (inside) and the rubber strip. Also, chewing gum on the end of large Phillips screwdriver works great for extracting the screw under the arm rest plug. Of course you could just let it fall if you know you are going to take off the door panel. I was able to carefully "unstick" the plastic film moisture barrier and roll it up with masking tape as it is held in place by fastners for the loudspeaker. My adhesive was still tacky enough to put it back perfectly. All-in-all, not a bad job to do if you have a few hours, a good parts man and the right riveter.
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Old 10-15-2003, 06:23 PM
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Can something be used instead of rivets? What about a simple Craftsman hand rivet gun, will that work? Or do I need a professional, monster pnuematic gun to get the job done.
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  #5  
Old 10-15-2003, 08:49 PM
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You wouldn't need a pneumatic rivet gun, this is what I used:

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/MAR-39010.html

I suppose in a real pinch nuts and bolts could be used, make sure you use as short as you can possibly fit in there, and use a lock washer. The rivets would be "by the book" though.

Gilly
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  #6  
Old 10-16-2003, 01:57 PM
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I just popped open the rear door panel of my '99 E430. The cable that runs up and down is just dangling loose, so I assume replacing the window regulator is the right thing to do.

Although I haven't removed it yet, the window regulator looks connected to what looks like the motor. The dealer says the motor ($128) and the regulator ($106) are sold seperately. Can someone clarify if the silver, cylindrical object is indeed the motor? It looks like it's all one piece. If both pieces ARE connected, I'm wondering if anyone knows what tools I need to remove the motor?

Note, I saw a posting somewhere that said it was all one piece.

Thanks for the help.
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  #7  
Old 10-16-2003, 02:14 PM
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Motor and Spool Are Separate From Frame

You should only need the regulator, not the motor. No special tools needed other than possibly a TORX wrench to separate the motor and frame and a really heavy-duty pop riveter for puting the assembly back into the door. At least that's what I found.
I guess a '99 could be different. Recommend you talk to Phil at PartsShop to confirm. He can send new rivets too.
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  #8  
Old 10-16-2003, 03:26 PM
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Re: W210 Rear Window Regulator

Quote:
Originally posted by Ockman
According to them the rear windows are heavy and if the windows are not used regularly the window regulator fails. In fact before I could finish describing the probelm the service tech said "rear window right? We always have a problem with the rear windows in this model."
I agree. My brother has a 98 E320 with same exact rear passenger-side window. He had the regulator replaced once already and last week he went to see the dealer for same reason again... he hardley lowers the window... After reading your post, I'll tell him to do it on regular basis..
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  #9  
Old 10-16-2003, 09:53 PM
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Arnel:
2 piece unit. Yes the cylindrical item (with the wires leading to it) is the motor.

Gilly

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