Having kids in college makes one become resourceful.
I have decided to do a brake job on my 1994 E420. Could someone please post or email me a list of what is needed?
Parts required. Tools required. Since this will be my first time at brakes I have decided to do the front one weekend and the back the next. I have done other minor work on my E420.....changing the power window motor unit, rotor and distributor, various switches etc so I am fairly comfortable with working on my car.
I want to put on new rotors, pads, sensors, etc and anything else that should be done while in in there.

Thanks for all your help guys!!

Allan

__________________
1973 280 - Sold
1980 300SD - Sold
1982 240D - Stolen
1988 300E - Sold
1989 260E - Sold
1989 560SEL
1994 E420 - Sold
1997 E420
2005 CL500

Well after 16 views no help...ugg
Does anyone know of a good thread in here to read then?

Thanks!
Allan

__________________
1973 280 - Sold
1980 300SD - Sold
1982 240D - Stolen
1988 300E - Sold
1989 260E - Sold
1989 560SEL
1994 E420 - Sold
1997 E420
2005 CL500

Allan:

There is an excellet description in the DIY section at the top of the page! Don't know if the E420 brakes are identical, but they should be very very similar to the other W124 brakes with floating calipers.

This isn't a bad job at all unless the rotors are worn out, in which case you must remove the caliers and swap the rotors.

The quick and easy way to tell is to check for a dsitinct lip at the outer edge of the rotor where the pads don't cover. If there is one, it means the rotors are too thin and need to be replaced as well. They are held on by the caliper and pads and a sincel small screw with the wheel off. Just take the screw out (may need some persuasion) and remove the two caliper bolts (very tight, use a hammer on the breaker bar), put blue locktite on the bolts when you re-install.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

THANKS for the response.
Yes, there is a very distinct lip on the rotor.
So what tools will I need to complete the job?

Allan

__________________
1973 280 - Sold
1980 300SD - Sold
1982 240D - Stolen
1988 300E - Sold
1989 260E - Sold
1989 560SEL
1994 E420 - Sold
1997 E420
2005 CL500

I got this from this forum, not scientific but pretty darn close:

Brake disk thickness- Penny Dime Nickel

If your brake disks have a lip whose thickness is no more than that a "Dime" - you might be able use them again.
"Pennys" - its about time to change them
"Nickel" - Regardless brake light or not, hurry up and change em'

BTW, here are the official thicknesses of the US coins:

Penny 1.57 mm
Nickel 1.98 mm
Dime 1.35 mm

The obvious note is there are two sides to a brake disk.

Haasman

__________________
'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)

if the car is like the W124/W126 of yesteryear, you need a 19mm ratchet to take off the caliper mounting bolts, a 5mm allen key to remove the set screw on the front and rear wheels, a long metal punch for the pad pins, a pair of needle-nose pliers, and a 9mm box end wrench for the brake bleeder screws. Don't forget to get new pad wear sensors, and brake pad paste.

__________________
1984 380SL-driving and service privileges.

Thanks for all of the input guys.....just hope my breaks work when I'm done....I really don't wanna test my air bags....LOL

Thanks,
Allan

__________________
1973 280 - Sold
1980 300SD - Sold
1982 240D - Stolen
1988 300E - Sold
1989 260E - Sold
1989 560SEL
1994 E420 - Sold
1997 E420
2005 CL500

You may like to check my web site - mostly W126 but you will find the brakes and rotors pretty similar - I cover replacement of pads, rotors and bearings.

BTW, the W126 uses 17mm lug bolts and I suspect your W124 does too. 19mm is a later Porsche size.

Textar pads give you OEM braking and feel at the expense of dust.

I bet you mean you hope your brakes don't break.

Haasman

__________________
'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)

I did my first brake job on my W124, earlier this year.

A dirty but very straightforward job. Probably one of the easiest ways to save a good chunk of money.

Have all the tools mentioned above.

The pin for hanging the wheel on from the tool kit in the trunk is handy to have out.

Blue Loctite for the caliper polts.

Small wire brush for cleaning bolt threads.

New set screws for the rotor already have Loctite.

Be gentle with the bleed screws. They crush easily.

Have eye protection on when you are banging on the old rotors to break them loose. A rubber mallet or a BFH is sometimes needed. Liquid Wrench or some other spray will come in handy.

Brake cleaner for cleaning off the coating on the new rotors if needed. Use the brake cleaner for that last wipe to remove greasy fingerprints from the rotor before buttoning up.

Steel wool for cleaning. Smear anti seize paste where things can rust together.

Be gentle when prying the olds pads loose.

Tuck the sensor wires under the clip.

You might even consider repacking the front bearings while you're there.

If you are changing brake fluid, make sure you are on a relatively flat surface, and the rear cell of the brake fluid resevoir stays full of fluid as you flush.

glenmore
1991 300CE

Don't forget to do the proper break-in for your new pads - or they'll glaze over the new discs and make for sucky braking (that's a technical term). I seem to remember the instructions printed on my box of pads (I used PBR Deluxe). By the way - I LOVE these new pads. No more soot-like build-up on my brakes every 3 days.

Good Luck,
Troy
1995 E420