Didn't the po keep any maintaince records? How is the oil pressure?

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

If it is as bad as you say (and I'm not doubting you), you may think about another oil and filter change earlier than you may have as all the new oil cleans out any accumulated crud.

Cheers

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1988 W126 420 SE

beware of fundamentalists!

Good idea, he used a diesel rated oil to so it will clean like crazy. I'd drop the oil again in another 1k-1.5k miles to clean it out.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Hattaras- the oil pressure was good, but I had doubts at one point today after that episode with the tranny. As we have already discussed in some areas when I asked where it should be @ when idling on my other topic. @ 1500 RPMS, it is @ the "3" bar, when the engine is fully warmed, which is where I was told it was supposed to be. At idle when in gear, at full temperature today (before the oil change) I noticed it had dropped to slightly above the "0" (.1) at 500 RPMS, but then as soon as it would get to 1500 RPMS, it was back at the "3". That is what had me concerned so much that I changed the oil this evening- I even missed on going to church with grandma. I knew it had to be done ASAP. When I drove it the 2nd time today after that, even when it was idling at 500 RPMS, it was then at the ".3" bar. However, when it was in park and idling around 750 RPMS, it was between the "1" and "2", even at full operating temperature. I am assuming all is well with those readings. As mentioned, I know nothing about these cars. I am guessing this oil was completely worn out. I will know more about the pressure on Tuesday, when I drive it again, because I am not driving the car tomorrow.

I am hoping the new oil will bring the pressure up even more at that low idle. It would probably have to, because that oil filter had to be clogged. I am going to try to find some batteries around here and take a photo, because it was really unbelievable.

You said that oil I used would "clean" the engine since I used "diesel rated" oil. You do not think it will harm the engine do you if it is not "used" to this type of oil? I do not want it to start burning oil or anything.

I was suprising how easy it was to change the oil. It was 5:15 before I even got back with the oil and filter and was dusky dark. It was pitch dark before I finished and I was using flashlight. I was confused about the oil filter canister however. It still had oil in the filter canister. I just left it and stuck the new filter down in it. I did not know what else to do. I did not have a syphon.

BTW - No, no records at all. The original owner put 220K miles on it and while no records, I think they took good care of the car, thats pretty obvious. However, I think the second owner (guy I bought it from) did not do anything to it, over the past 43,000 miles. It also needs a muffler and now I think it needs brake pads. They (brake pads) are squealing.

You will do no harm to your engine with clean oil - you are doing it a great favour!!

But, as I suggested, I would go for another oil and filter change after 1000 miles or so - it will probably look just as filthy.

No matter about a bit of oil left behind - theres lots more in there you wouldn't have gotten out.

Your idle sounds fine - just like where mine is.

Cheers

__________________
1988 W126 420 SE

beware of fundamentalists!

In my Benzes, fully warmed up, at idle, the oil press. is at 1.5 bar. As soon as you get to 1200-1300 rpm, the needle hit 3 bar.
I don't know if it has been suggested yet, but go to a dealer and order yourself a copy of the owner's manual. This will answer alot of your questions about oil.
I agree with the notion of changing your oil again in 1,000 miles. If the oil was that bad, then fresh oil will clean it up.

__________________
1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi)
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi)
2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi)
MBCA member

And that "1.5" bar is when it is idling in park, or in drive? When in park, mine it at 1.5 as well, but when running, it was much lower. I am hoping with the new oil/filter, it will read higher when in drive @ idle.

Tom W: My current MB experience is in the W210 chassis.
What am saying is that you do not need to have a summer oil and a winter oil. There is an oil that meets that temperature band. We need not be afraid to try new things. I understand the feeling: I have done it this way for years, why change now.

RickJordan: We all think that all MB filters are either Mann or Hengst. Well, add Bosch to the list. You can never be sure. The cost of filter has increased in the last year. The increase interval (white net) filter will cost you $15 even from Phil and its $20-$22 from dealer. The regular filter is still about $6-$8. I only use the more expensive increase interval filter at least for the simple reason that MB knows something that I may not know.
Yes synthetic oil have been around at least 20+ years and I know of a highly regarded off highway diesel engine manufacturer that has used it at least that long. Some manufacturers just take that long to warm to a good idea. It is generally acceptable in the engine engineering circles that synthetic is superior to dino.. The higher engine efficiency demands due to emission control and higher thermal load just require the use of synthetic oil. Even older cars can benefit. I switched all my cars to synthetic.

86560SEL: The dirtiest and oldest oil I have ever seen!!!!!!!!!!!!!

.You can’t tell the condition of an oil by its color. Most spent synthetic oil are darker than the average dino oil. Hole in a filter is bad news. I am not sure the replacement purolator filter is any better than the fram.

True, but from the looks of that trashy filter, I would bet that oil has seen a LOT of miles. I will post a photo of that filter tomorrow. I think you will be amazed.

Purolater is probably crap too, but anything is better than what I removed from that canister this evening.

If I knew that filter looked like that, I never would have even started that engine. It makes me cringe knowing it just made the 250 mile trip over here with that oil and filter in it.

Those Ferrari owners so piss poor after their purchase that they can only afford Fram filters.

PA2TU,

I have never seen this "white net" filter. Possibly it is only for the newer engines. When I look up filters for my Benzes at Fastlane, I see the usual MANN, Hengst, Mahle, or Bosch. All with prices $8.50 or less. Even the HUGE canister filter (Mahle) for my Porsche is only $8.
I would be interested to find out how a filter can go longer before being changed out. The filter it's self isn't going to change the amount of "dirt" in the oil. By that I mean, yes the filter could be filtering better, but wouldn't that mean it would clog up sooner?

__________________
1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi)
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi)
2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi)
MBCA member

the minimum called for in t he owners manual at idle is i believe about .5 bar. so i hope you can get there after cleaning everything with new oil. folks who dont change the oil really steam me.

i have looked at cars before that had the oil below the dipstick and had knocking bearings and the seller is saying that the oil is changed religeously etc. i have no patience for liars. i have stopped at convenience stores on a test drive before and added oil in pity for the poor benz. one car i drove around the block and came right back since it was clearly knocking and i didnt want to blow a rod on the test drive.

once i drove a four wheel drive (ford i think) and when i went around a corner the axle with the wheel attached came out o f the rear axle tube about 2'. i parked it and walked back tothe sellers house.

idiots!

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Actually, it was at "1.5" when idling in park. It was when it was idling in drive at full temperature at 500 RPMs is when it was around .1 / .2 mark, but that was only once, after that, it was at the .3, which others have said before is normal. This is a 20 year old car, with 263K, so I do not expect it to be perfect, but since it was at "3" at 1500 RPMS, I am sure it is OK. I will know more tomorrow how the new oil helps, because I am going to drive it tomorrow when I take it to have a middle muffler installed.

OK.... here it is! The WRETCHED oil filter.It made me when I saw it. I took these photos a little while ago. Yes, it is dark out, so sorry for the low/no quality.

Attached Thumbnails

   

I think I am going to throw up.

__________________
1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi)
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi)
2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi)
MBCA member

I told you it was bad.....