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#76
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Now if that filter was from a diesel, then that would be ok. Did you check inside the oil cap and see if there is any crud build up on the valve train?
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1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi) 2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi) 2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi) MBCA member |
#77
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Yeah, it looked fine inside the oil cap. Very suprising. I am guessing he may have changed the oil, but obviously never changed the filter. At least not in the 40,000 he put on it. Did you see the hole in the bottom of it?
Like I said, if I knew that oil/filter was in there, I would have never even started that engine. I just hope it does not start burning oil now because of this. It didn't as of yesterday. I will know more tomorrow. |
#78
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[
It's enough to make a grown man cry! I simply do not understand why people would spend tens of thousands of dollars for a car and then worry about saving $2 on a filter or complain about having to use premium fuel.[/QUOTE] I have to agree with Bud. As inexpensive as OEM filters are on ALL the online web sites, why even dicuss Fram or Wix or any aftermarket filters. Senseless.
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Rusty Cullens BuyMBparts, Inc. 1-800-741-5252 |
#79
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after the holidays, I will probably cut open one of my new mann/hecht/bosch filters and post a picture. Or better yet.... change the oil and cut open one with 3k miles on it or so. I think it should give us a good idea if the filter is decent and may be provide some comparison to FRam or others...
I have no idea what they look like inside.. I think I pay somewhere between 4.50 and 5 bucks on line for them.
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1989 300ce 129k ( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone) 1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus 1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k 1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it [/SIGPIC] |
#80
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Beware of naive visual comparisons which do not include
proper tests with real equipment to measure flow, trapped particle size, and other important technical aspects.
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#81
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Excellent. I drove the car on several trips today and the pressure is even better than it was before, which even then was right where I was told it was to be. Now, at normal operating temperature, when in drive, it is at the ".4" bar. Sometimes at the ".3" or ".5", but mainly on the .4. Also, now when it hits 1300 RPMs, instead of 1500 rpms, it is already at the "3" mark. At idle when in park, it is still on "1.5" or "1.6".
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