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  #1  
Old 12-14-2003, 01:03 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Posts: 236
Brake pad replacement

Gentlemen: I had my brake pads replaced by a shop about 100K miles ago. Now I was just given a complete set of Kevlar/metal pads that I would like to install myself on my C280 Sport which has about 200K miles on it. I would like to know how difficult this job is? And is it similar to the DIY instructions shown on the DIY portion of this web sit for an E320 or 420.,whichs is pretty simple. If this job is similare, I have all the tools, heated garage and a good grasp of mechnical knowledge , I think. I have a power brake device I bought am I am eager to do the whole job myself.What say you?
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  #2  
Old 12-14-2003, 06:49 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Kingsport, TN
Posts: 375
Hi Peter,

you posted this on the wrong board, thats why no responses.

I would look at the rotors, too, as they might be at their service limit after 100,000 miles, assuming you got new rotors the last time. The pads themselves are easy and there is plenty in the archives.

Use the MB brake paste, the blue stuff sticks to the rubber seals too much.
You might also run into a bad dust seal, so check with your MB dealer and see whether they have that part incase of need, if this is your daily driver.

Good luck

Reinhard Kreutzer
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  #3  
Old 12-14-2003, 09:04 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Posts: 236
rkreutzer; tHE ROTORS SEEM TO BE LIKE NEW WITH LITTLE WEAR. tHEY HAVE NEVER BEEN REPLACED. I HAVE AND NEVER DO USE THE BRAKES VERY HARD. I THINK. The question is where would I go to get a step by step (pictures would help) tutor on changing all the pads? If you know of one, I'd appreciate knowing where to find it. Thank you very much for your intersest. BTW I have'nt spend a dime fixing this car other than battery and tires. I'm amazed at how little maintenace the auto needs. Even at 200K miles nothing has gone wrong with it. No oil leaks, no use of oil between 5K mile changes, Castrol Syntec 5W50. I did replace the stock wipers as they are not really a good design but this did not bother me. Love the car and use it on all our trips. Thanks again for your interest. PF
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  #4  
Old 12-14-2003, 09:44 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Kingsport, TN
Posts: 375
I don't know your specific car but the description in the DIY section should cover it. You need the sensors with the pads and the paste. Once the pads are out, look at the inside of the caliper and clean off the brake dust. (I wear a scarf around my mouth and nose to protect my lungs from fine dust.) It makes the insertion of the new pads easier. Inspect the insides for damage to rubber seal. Sometimes a spring might be broken. Dealer normally has it.
I loosen the bleeder nipple when pushing back the pads to make it easier and you are going to replace the fluid anyway with your power bleeder afterwards. Its easiest with the car on stands as you can bleed all four calipers at the end together. The brake fluid is aggressive on paint, so watch out for that.
Easy on the paste. It gums up the rubber seal.
It's the unexpected like uneven pad wear (stuck caliper) or a broken dust seal that can make it more challenging, but if everything is ok, then the pads are really easy.

Good luck
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  #5  
Old 12-15-2003, 12:15 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Posts: 236
Brake pads

KRuiser : Thanks alot. I'll proceed with the work. In '79 when I drove a Cobra at Daytona, the mechanics would do all 4 brakes in about 2 minutes. We did this every 300 miles for 13 hours, until one of the drivers crashed the car. This was the race where Gurney back end an Alfa.
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