Hi,
What is the correct way to disconnect the self-leveling cells? The factory calls for simply disconnecting without first releasing system pressure.
Since I live in an apartment building, I would like to minimize hydraulic oil spray, when I disconnect the lines.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
farrukh

No, it's that simple, just disconnect the lines. I would have plenty of rags and something to plug the line to lessen the leakage.
Why are you replacing them and on which "T" model? Also, once you change them, you will need to put a truck load of weight in the backend and run the engine to high idle to "bleed" the system. Once the backend comes up, check the level in the res. and add as needed. Use only the hyd. fluid you can get at either a dealer or better yet from Fastlane. The fluid is made by Feibi-Bilstein.

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1999 MB SL500 (110,000 mi)
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T (220,000 mi)
2014 Tesla Model S 85 (136,000 mi)
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There is a bleeder screw on the control valve just like on brakes. Just connect a hose to it routed to a container and then open the bleed screw. Generally, when the cells are bad, there will be little residual presure in the system since the cells no longer hold presure and are now effectively just big oil tanks (they will be full if bad-and heavy). You are still gonna spill some oil. Get a new filter and several bottles of the oil. Do a flush while you are working on the system. Fluid should be replaced every two years or so. Cells are the cheap parts of the system. Everything else costs mega-$.

WHAT KIND OF BENZ IS IT? WHY ARE YOU REPLACING THE ACCUMULATORS? ARE THEY LEAKING? IS THE CAR BOUNCY? IS THE CAR HITTING HARD OVER BUMPS? WHATEVER YOUR REASON IS FOR REPLACEMENT, WHY DON'T YOU PLAY IT SAFE SINCE YOUR EYE SIGHT IS SUCH A VALUABLE ASSET. CONFIRM THAT THE SYSTEM IS DEPRESSURIZED BY LOOSENING THE LINES SLOWLY AT THE ACCUMULATORS AND ENSURE THAT THE FLUID LEAKS OUT COMPLETLEY BEFORE SEPERATING THE LINES. MAKE SURE TO WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES. IF YOU SIMPLY REMOVE THE LINES AND THERE IS PRESSURE IN THE SYSTEM YOU WILL BE TAKING A HYDRAULIC FLUID BATH!!! ALWAYS ENSURE A PRESSURIZED SYSTEM IS COMPLETLEY DEPRESSURIZED BEFOR DOING ANY KIND OF SERVICE TO IT.

You need to support the rear of the car, as it will drop quite a bit when you loosen the hydraulic lines.

Need to know which model before giving specifics.

M.G.:

Please take the caps lock off when typing, all caps is the equivalent of shouting in the computer world. Very hard to read, as well. Thanks!

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!