Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Tech Help

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #16  
Old 02-20-2007, 05:37 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: England
Posts: 1,841
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgoodwin View Post
PS. Has anyone seen a Benz fitted with an aluminum wing, air damn with window screen in the vents, rice rocket exhaust tips, 22" rims, HUGE autometer tach, limo tint, curb feelers, etc. I would really like a pic.
Great thread and great info Mr Goodwin.

As a reward, I may have what you seek.

Go to
http://www.barryboys.co.uk/shedindex/database/?function=show_search_form&table_name=carmain
and in the manufacturer box type 'Mercedes'. Leave everything else as it is and click 'search for record'. You may wish to shield your eyes at this point. This will find some of the more awful 'modified' Mercedes about in the UK.



Russell

__________________
190E's:
2.5-16v 1990 90,000m Astral Silver
2.0E 8v 1986 107,000m Black 2nd owner
http://www.maylane.demon.co.uk/190esmall.jpghttp://www.maylane.demon.co.uk/190esmall2.jpg
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 02-20-2007, 01:38 PM
cgoodwin's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Seattle, Wa.
Posts: 128
I had forgotten this thread existed until I got an email notice about it today. Just after that thread I did write a page on the function of the SLS which can be seen here: http://www.frybrid.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6461

My 560 has AMG 17" Monoblocks, Parelli low profiles, bielstien fronts and H&R springs all around. It does handle mush better than it did in it's original config but does not rattle your filling loose in normal driving, aggressive driveways can be a drag (literally), but the body roll is non-existant now. I rarely drive it anymore as I have sworn off gasoline engines (Except the 911, 4 bmw motorcycles, a Norton Commando and just about anything I can get my hands on).
__________________
******************************
1971 Porsche 911 Targa RSR rep.
1968 BMW R60/2
1981 BMW R80GS-PD, dual plugs, 1000cc jugs, 10 gal "Gaston" tank.
1982 BMW R80GS-PD, duplicate of above.
1988 Neoplan/Mercedes 40' Bus
2002 SLK32 AMG
2013 Smart Electric
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 04-05-2007, 09:55 PM
plutonian's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: carmel valley, CA
Posts: 36
[quote=Paulwho;553075]Shawnster,
"A rear end which is low in curb weight condition should never be set higher by adjusting the connecting rod of the level controller."
quote]

Hi - I read these and Chris's explanations and caveats - maybe too late - in my neigbourhood (Big Sur - rough mouintainous dirt roads) folks drive mercedes 300TD's like mine (an 82) with the level raised to the max by adjusting the leveling rod, to accomodate 225x70x14 AT tires. I can see you all cringing, but the reason for the practice is the terrain and folks want to drive (bio)diesels without having to haul 3/4 ton trucks around and these old wagons are solid enough for the terrain! I just ordered my tires and realise maybe I should be looking for a different solution to the problem - like if you really want to drive a 300TD on these roads, is there a better way to lift the rear the extra inch for the tires and clearance.

Any thoughts!?
Thanks
I guess
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 04-06-2007, 03:02 PM
cgoodwin's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Seattle, Wa.
Posts: 128
The weight of the rear of the vehicle should be supported by the springs, if you want the vehicle to sit higher, change the springs or simply replace them, it is likely that your springs are pretty tired after all these years. Springs can also be reworked to mke them longer or shorter although in this age of parts replacers actual craftspeople ar getting harder to find, we do have a 70 year old spring smith in Seattle who does work for me.
__________________
******************************
1971 Porsche 911 Targa RSR rep.
1968 BMW R60/2
1981 BMW R80GS-PD, dual plugs, 1000cc jugs, 10 gal "Gaston" tank.
1982 BMW R80GS-PD, duplicate of above.
1988 Neoplan/Mercedes 40' Bus
2002 SLK32 AMG
2013 Smart Electric
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 04-06-2007, 03:22 PM
dieseldiehard's Avatar
Dieseldiehard
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Bay Area No Calif.
Posts: 4,320
You can carry quite a load in a TD with a good SLS, but you don't want to park with that load for a long time it places a strain on the valve, etc. I moved about 600 lbs of tile on two occasions using my '79 300TD, the SLS was maxed out to maintain level, and I drove very slowly but it performed admirably

There may also be thicker spring pads for the TD if yours is sagging, why don't you check with Fastlane? these go at the top of the spring where it meets the body cup and allows adjustment of ride height without resorting to new springs.
I tried that but I eventually had to order springs made of thicker wire for my 115 which has an air compressor and the battery moved to the trunk (plus the tools I seem to carry around in it, it was almost dragging the ground!)
For any special springs I suggest Coil Spring Specialties, St. Marys KS check them out! http://www.coilsprings.com/index.html
__________________
'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 04-24-2007, 01:07 AM
plutonian's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: carmel valley, CA
Posts: 36
Well those + size tires fit just fine, no need to raise my ride! The Benz has big wheel arches I guess. Thanks for the advise though. I'm sure I'll be back for more.
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 05-14-2007, 05:45 PM
joro's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 192
sls

I have a similar problem in my w124 87 300tdt,i chaNGED THE ACCUMulators and now get a nice ride,but recently after changing them and bleeding the system i find that after returning from cosctco with a heavy load in the back that the shgocks and rear stayed deppressed and that its not bouncing again,could this be the valve??
please help
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 07-12-2007, 08:48 PM
truckinik's Avatar
And I only had one lesson
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Clearwater Beach, Florida
Posts: 1,022
You can test your system, by applying pressure to the pivot arm which is attaced to the sway bar. Pushing it one way will raise the car, the other way will lower it. You can actually, hook a rod to the pivot bracket, to the outside of the car, and make it into a sort of custom height adjuster. You can set your car's height. I have it on all four corners. I understand this is not really all that common, but atleast you can adjust the rear, how you want it.
__________________
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 08-04-2007, 08:10 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: El Paso, Texas
Posts: 361
SLS Suspension

CGoodwin:
Can you post a picture of the adjusting rod and lever? What's the proper setting for the rod? there are 3 holes on it. I changed mined after new accumulators and proper bleeding from last position hole towards the rear of the car to the center hole moving towards the front and seemed to soften up suspension more; moved rod to the front hole and seems to ride harder? suspension stays level no matter what. Car was bouncing bronco before new accumulators now rides much better but I think still a little too firm. I also got a lot of cracking noise every time it went over bumps which has diminished a lot after going to hole 1 to the front on the adjusting rod but still there.
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 03-23-2009, 08:34 AM
Dee8go's Avatar
Senor User
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: The People's Republic of Arlington, VA
Posts: 7,191
Quote:
Originally Posted by cgoodwin View Post
OK, here's the deal. Both very soft and very hard rides can result from failed accumlators, the suspension should be the finest in the world, no holds barred, it should be firm but smoothe, absorb bumps silently and smoothly, keep a level vehicle regardless of weight and you should be able to run over a brick with just one rear wheel, going around a corner and still cut a diamond in the back seat... OK a bit extreme but not far off.

First you need to know how the system works. You have a belt driven hydralic pump, the pressurized fluid passes through a line to the leveling valve. This valve has an actuating lever attached via an adjustable rod to the sway bar. When the rear of the car is depressed, the valve opens and forces fluid through the accumulators and into the "Shocks" which are actually hydralic rams, these raise the car until the lever is again level and valve closes. The accumulators simply absorb the shocks with compressed gas. Now look at each seperate system.

Leveling. Since the "shocks" are simply rams which raise the vehicle, and fluids do not compress this system is very hard without the accumulators. To check the system, shut the vehicle off, measure from the ground to the wheel arch and write it down. Now place weight in the rear, try opening the trunk and having two people sit on the rear. Measure the didtance again, it should be less with the weight. Now with the weight still in place start the engine and run it at about 1500 rpm for a minute or two...The rear should raise to the original level, if it does not, there is a problem - regardless of the accumulators.

Next raise the vehicle and look at the valve, it has a lever with an adjustable rod connected to it, the other end of the rod connects to an arm attached to the sway bar with a clamp (this clamp can slip lowering the vehicle). Disconnect the rod from the lever on the valve and rotate the lever upward to about 45 degrees. Lower the vehicle to the ground and again run the engine at 1500rpm, as soon as you notice the rear begin to rise, shut the engine down (as not to hyper extend the leveling rams) - OK it it went up then the valve, pump and rams all work. If it did not go up then you need to go into the system more carefully - let me know and I can explain, but since this is rarely the issue I will skip ahead.

The rod can be adjusted by turning the center and shortneing or lengthening the rod. Each two turns shorter raises the vehicle about 1" each two turns longer lowers the vehicle about 1". Keep at it until you get it level and there you go.

Shock absorbtion. Since the leveling system is hydralic and fluids do not compress, if you hit a bump, it will feel like the rear is solid. So the fluid runs into a sphere which is devided by a membrane, on the other side of the membrane is gas presurized to about 1700psi, when the vehicle hits a bump the fluid is forced from the ram and down the line into the oil filled side of the accumulator and from there to the valve, which should be shut because the vehicle is level. The only place which can give is the gas filled side of the accumulator, which it does and just as rapidly the gas expands and forced the ram back to its original position - Just like in a gas filled shock absorber. Get it? the "shock" is actually just a ram which raises or lowers the rear end, the accumulator is actually the "shock"!

If you have a very hard rear end when driving, OR if the rear seems to "wollow" or be very soft on the road then most likely you have bad accumulators but don't take my word for it, test them. The simplest way I know is to unscrew the hose going from the accumulator to the "shock" - BE VERY CAREFUL - the fluid is under a lot of pressure and will spray abut a coffee cup of oil everywhere. With the line off slide a small punch into the end of the accumulator, it should go no more than about 1/2 inch in, if it goes 3 to 4 inches in, the diaphram is gone and the accumulator is worthless and must be replaced.

Do not simply gut the hydramatic system and replace it with springs and shocks, you would be replaceing a remarkable system with a very basic one. Once working you can load the car down and have a level ride, you have a system which works better than just about anything on the road and you have no shocks to go bad.

If you need more info let me know and I will help as much as I can. I have a 1989 560 SEL, looks and runs like new with just under 200k...With hydramatic suspension.

Chris
Great explanation, Chris. thanks. This is just what I needed to know.

__________________
" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century

OBK #55

1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold
Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold
Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles
2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles
2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:50 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page