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Old 08-08-2000, 02:29 PM
Posts: n/a
Hi All,

I have just ordered a new radiator and turbo to sump line oil seals from the mercedesshop for my 300TD-T, and made search for radiator change hints. I think I have most of information I need except...

I read sometime ago in this forum that for a full coolant flush I need to undo the drain plug on the engine block somwhere on the right side of the engine. I have looked and looked but I cannot find this plug. Can someone help me with more specific clues on where the plug is.

In my on the road band-aid repair I used someBarLeaks. What is the best way to de-BarLeak the coling system. Is flushing with a lot of water sufficient

To fit the turbo-charger to sump oil return line seals, do I need to remove the turbo or can the line be lefted out of the way.


ps Finally after many months I got to repairing the climat control. I had shorted out a the mono-valve control, that resulted in a burnt out circuit board via on the push button controller.
Thanks to many helpful hints from this forum I was able to focus my diagnostic efforts to track down the problem.

I now have a controlled climat, button dash lights!!! and lots of cleaned switches.

Next efforts, ( after the radiator change ) are: the rear wiper, tach, non-intermittant cruise control and investigate a few clunking noise under server breaking and then the most disconsulant 300TD-T in CA will be proud as new.

82 300TD Turbodiesal +250, 000
86 Volvo 740 GLE 220000
85 Honda Civic 120000
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Old 08-08-2000, 03:10 PM
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Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: Suwanee, GA, USA
Posts: 4,712
On this engine, there is a freeze plug that is hell to get out. You should just replace the radiator and do a flush.

The turbo return tube can be taken out without removing the turbo, but it is CHALLENGING. Take your time.

Donnie Drummonds
1991 GMC Syclone
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Old 08-08-2000, 05:08 PM
Posts: n/a

Is it possible to do a pre-flush flush, ie run water through the radiator hoses that would flush out the coolant in the engine block since there is no engine drain.
I want to get all the Bars Leak stuff out of the system before I put on the new radiator as a previous post claimed that it cloggs up the small openings in the radiator.

I could flush the system with the old radiator in installed and gradualy replace the engine block coolant that way.


82 300TD Turbodiesal +250, 000
86 Volvo 740 GLE 220000
85 Honda Civic 120000
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Old 08-09-2000, 08:17 AM
Posts: n/a

My experience over the years with BarsLeaks has actually been pretty good.

I don't know anyway to neutralize it, but since you're replacing the radiator anyway, I don't think I'd worry about it too much.

BarsLeaks only seems to cause problems where there are small passages such as radiator tubes, and even then I've never seen noticable problems with it. The heater core may have had a little of this, but I doubt that it'll be a problem.

I believe I'd get it in the driveway and flush as much fresh water through the system as possible before changing the radiator.

If you really want to get serious, there are many radiator flush products your could use. Again, if you do that, run lots of water through before changing the radiator, to flush the flush out.

Good luck,

Larry Bible
'84 Euro 240D, 523K miles
'88 300E 5 Speed
'81 300D Daughter's Car
Over 800,000 miles in
Mercedes automobiles
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Old 08-09-2000, 07:21 PM
SW SW is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Houston, TX. USA
Posts: 590
I replaced my radiator two weeks ago. You can see the block drain plug if you get on the ground by the passenger door (behind the tire)and shine a light on the right side of the engine. It's easier to reach the plug if you remove the air cleaner and u-shaped plastic tube going to the turbo. I think you have to use a 17mm socket with an extension.

1982 300D Turbo 215kmi
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Old 08-14-2000, 06:31 PM
Posts: n/a
Replace my radiator last week. Took me about an hour. Thanks to 'SW' I was able to find the block drain plug (19mm) as he described and was able to flush out the block with a lot of water.

One mistake I made was not to install a new reservoir to radiator hose, as it is getting old. The old radiator fins were choked full of everything. I guess I could have gotten away with just installing new tanks. With the new radiator installed, normal operating temp is 90C degrees, but in stop and go traffic up Hwy 17 in 95+F temperature with the AC on, the temperature moved up to 110C in a short time.

I know the AUX fan works correctly, but it does seem to turn the wrong way, ie sucks air out of the engine compartment.

Thanks again to everyones advice.


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