Quick rotor and brake question - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

mbtjc · #1 04-19-2004, 03:12 PM

I'm getting ready to do a front suspension rebuild and brake job. The rotors were new as of the last brake job. I know you don't turn MB rotors. So my question is: Do I have to replace the rotors every time? Or can the rotors go 2 sets of pads? I looked at them and they don't look bad and have a very slight "lip". They appear to be fine, but I was just wondering if it was common practice to always replace the rotors. I would prefer not to at about 50 bucks a shot....but if I have to.....

Also, does anyone know of a good blow-by-blow post of how to do a brake job and bearings? I know Thomaspin does, but ya gotta suscribe now.....I might end up doing that anyway, but just thought I would ask first.

Ali Al-Chalabi · #2 04-19-2004, 03:49 PM

The only way to know for sure is to measure the rotor and see how its actual dimensions compare to the minimum allowable thickness.

That being said, it has been my experience that the life of rotors is usually 2 sets of pads. So, if they are thick enough and flat, no there is no need to replace them.

mbtjc · #3 04-19-2004, 07:25 PM

Awesome, sounds good! I am confident they are still thick enough because of the rather shallow "lip". However, I will measure them first to make sure.

Ali Al-Chalabi · #4 04-19-2004, 09:03 PM

Yeah, in all likelihood, if they were stock or similiar compound pads that were used, and it was only one set, they are gonna be thick enough. The minimum thickness in millimeters is stamped into the rotor.

I usually replace the rotors every second set of pads and leave them untouched after the first set. The rotors are probably fine.

mbtjc · #5 04-19-2004, 10:01 PM

What brake pads do you use? I think I will try PBR deluxe. From everything I could find here, they are great, low dust and no noise.

Q · #6 04-19-2004, 10:29 PM

Front rotors on the W126 are a hassle. You have to take off the hub to get to the bolts. Here's a tip I wish someone would have given me. Once you get your hub off, bolt a wheel back onto it for leverage against the rotor bolts.

Bigmon · #7 04-19-2004, 10:48 PM

I'm on my 3rd set of pads with the same rotors and the car stops good.

wjm · #8 04-19-2004, 10:57 PM

I just ordered some PBR Deluxe PLUS instead of the regular Deluxe for my car. I purchased them at JOHN'S FOREIGN ENGINES (http://22re.com). They can be reached toll free at 1-877-456-9645. I'll let you know how they work.

Have some new Balo rotors I'll be using with them.

mbtjc · #9 04-19-2004, 11:14 PM

Any idea what the difference is between the deluxe and deluxe plus? Are the pluses just an improved version or a totally different (seperate) pad?

wjm · #10 04-19-2004, 11:29 PM

It's a different pad. To see the difference, you'll need to click on ALL of the links on this page:

http://www.pbrbrakes.com/technical.htm

BTW... Axxis and Repco are basically the same pads just rebranded.

mbtjc · #11 04-19-2004, 11:36 PM

Hmm...looks like the regular deluxes are better in all areas except for fade. Perhaps the regulars are better unless you do a lot of "spirited" braking. Agree?

wjm · #12 04-20-2004, 12:28 AM

Well, hard to say, as you really have to add weights to all of the comparisons.

Cleanliness and Hand washing are about the same... both will dust MUCH LESS than anything else you've probably seen, so I'm not concerned about these 2 comparisons.

Green Friction level seems to be irrelevant once that pads have been sufficiently broken in.

Brake Noise, Operating Friction, Rotor scoring, are also basically the same.

Deluxe is better on rotor life and Cold u reduction.

Plus better on pad life, High speed u reduction, fade and instop fade.

Based on that, I selected the PLUS this time around.

Duke2.6 · #13 04-20-2004, 01:43 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by mbtjc
Any idea what the difference is between the deluxe and deluxe plus? Are the pluses just an improved version or a totally different (seperate) pad?

For normal driving the Deluxe are EXCELLENT, but require a bit more pedal effort than the OE pads. In return they last seemingly forever, don't dust, squeal or chew up the rotors. I found them to be less than optimum for race track hot lapping, but so are the shocks. I have no plans to track my 190 again after two attempts. Both times it broke - the pitman shaft seal blew the first time (Firebird, near Phoenix in '92) and busted two LF tires the second time (Willow Springs, '96). The only time it finished a race type event without breaking was the '89 Silver State Classic Challenge.

Based on the PBR web site technical comparisons, if you will have to do regular maximum performance stops from over 80 MPH, go with the Deluxe Plus. For 99.9 percent of us the Deluxe are just fine including spirited driving on two-lane back roads. They just aren't that great for repeated maximum performance deceleration, which is the requirement for a good track car.

Duke

wbain5280 · #14 04-20-2004, 04:44 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by mbtjc
Also, does anyone know of a good blow-by-blow post of how to do a brake job and bearings? I know Thomaspin does, but ya gotta suscribe now.....I might end up doing that anyway, but just thought I would ask first.

I'm in the process of doing a rebuild right now. I pulled the caliper off with the pads still in and it's hanging on the swat bar. The hub and rotor combo is off and I'm not going to do a bearing repack on it, although I do have new seals.

You will need a large two jaw puller. I'll post a pic on my W126 thread, W126 Front End Work found here.

I haven't pressed the ball joint out yet. The upper control arm has been replaced but the upper bolt is reversed, IMHO, and comes out from behind. I'm going to get my daughter to help me because she has small arms. It's a PITA to work on because the brake lines and master cylinder are in the way.

I'll do the sub-frame next. I'll post some more pics.

I have to finish cleaning out my dryer vent. It had allot of lint in it.

mbtjc · #15 04-20-2004, 10:02 AM

Yeah, I think I will be going with the regular Deluxes b/c I obviously don't track my 126

and my driving is normal. Every once in a while I do a WHOA! stop, but not enough to warrant the Pluses.

As far as my front end, I'm doing the whole 9 pretty much. I'm replacing everything except the upper control arms. They are expensive and one ball joint boot is just fine and the other just just cracked but not split. So since I think I can get just the boots at the dealer, I will replace the boots and give the uppers a new lease on life. I will also replace the bushings. So at $100 each, I'll save a good little chunk and be just as well off. So I am replacing: sway bar bushings and the bushings where it mounts into the control arm, lower ball joints, lower control arm bushings, tie rod ends (not drag link since they are totally intact), idler arm bushing, brake bushings, guide rod mounts into lower control arm, subframe bushings, front brake pads, bearing repack w/ new seals, maybe brake lines, replace brake fluid, installing H&Rs, shocks are only about year old so I don't need to replace those. And since the entire front suspension and brakes will be out, I will be cleaning all the parts and painting them with rust encapsulator and black chassis paint. I will also detail the wheel wells. It should look sweet.

On the rear I will be putting on new sway bar bushings, sway bar links and trailing arm bushings. The subframe bushings are also only about year old so they are fine. Springs too of course. And if it doesn't look too difficult while unbolting everything to do the bushings, I may just take out the entire trailing arms and give them the chassis paint treatment too.

wbain-- I'll keep an eye on your post. I take it the large puller is for the bearings? Luckily I have a friend whose dad owns an automotive repair shop so I will have access to whatever special gizmos I need.

If I can borrow a digital and figure out how to put the pics on here, I'll post some pics. This is still about 3 weeks out though, so it won't be right away.

Now I just need to save up for my 18" AMGs