I'm about to do my first oil change on this car, are there any special tools I will be needing?

How hard is it to change an idler arm, front lower right ball joint and front shocks on the 124?

What kind of grease would you use on the power seat rails? White or regular?

Thanks,

Josh

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63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6

I can comment only on the oil change. They don't get a whole lot easier than on an '86 300E...with one exception. That fiber drip plate (it's not really a skid plate...it's too light) should be removed to make things easier. The space they left in it to access the oil pan drain isn't big enough to accommodate turning the tool once you have it on the plug. If you do manage in spite of it to get the plug out, the initial rush of hot oil passes over the access hole and manages to lay in a puddle on top of that drip plate. There are 6 screws (not all identical so remember where they came from) holding it on, and remember it's easier to take off than put on! Personally mine is out in the storage shed.

Good luck with the other questions.

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1996 SL320 97K miles
1996 C220 130k miles
1992 500SEL 170k miles <---sold
1986 300E 216k miles <---sold

Idler arm bushings can be a bit of a problem. Sometimes the bolt won't pass up and out due to exhaust manifold interference. Sometimes by pulling the lower bushing after removing the nut, then cocking the bolt sideways and tapping out the top bushing with a punch, you can get it out.

If not, cut off the top of the bolt and put the new bolt in from the bottom up. Either way you put the bolt, you will have to tighten the daylights out of it to take out all the slack. The nut will be so tight that there is no chance that it will come off.

The front shocks are struts. You must have a way to support the lower control arm to change them. The support must be adjustable such as a floor jack so you can get the strut in position. Also there is a plastic clip for the ABS Sensor wire and brake sensor wire. Pay close attention to this and get it all in position correctly so as not to damage any of these important connections.

The ball joint is pressed in so you will need a press tool to change it.

Good luck,

Thanks for the replies. I may have to farm some of it out, possibly the ball joint.
I need a shop manual.

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63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6

What are the torque specs for the drain plug and filter? Somebody gorilla'ed those and the air cleaner nuts before me.
Also, I didn't have another drain plug washer. I would think when I got the filter, they would have said something. Oh well.

Also, I didn't notice anything that looked like an oil cooler, so I couldn't drain it.

Thanks for the help. You have to watch out for the plasticy bits and there are wires and hoses everywhere. A little different than working on the ancient ones.

__________________
63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6

Joshhol,

Oil drain plug torque for 300E is 25 nm/18 lb. ft.

I believe oil filter should be no more than "hand tight". I have always tightened mine that way, but funnily enough have had to use filter wrench to remove. (Do not recall at that moment whether it was because they seemed tighter, or because they were hot).

Copper seal rings are available inexpensively on the net; since you have a '76 300 D, you may have a few extra lying around. I have found washers fm my daughter's 84 300 Turbo D are same size as those for my '90 300E drain plug.

If you will wipe off the oil filter mount and then smear a thin coat of oil on the oil filter rubber gasket, it will come off much easier.

Good luck,

Hi,

FYI, my '87 260E calls for 20Nm for the oil filter once hand tightened.

I just hand tight mine and that works...

good luck,

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sjsfiji

'87 W124 260E (DD)
98K orig. mi. @7/15
CLK 7-Spoke Forged Wheels
Neuspeed springs/Bilstein Sport
4/3 bump (F/R)

'97 993 Carrera
106K orig. mi.
Always driven like it's stolen

You may want to do a search on the word "Topsider." Many of us change oil from above. It's easier and cleaner, and your car (and in fact all MB's after the mid-1970s) was designed for its oil to be removed via the dipstick tube. That's the way the dealerships do it, too. You've noticed that the oil filter is designed to be accessed from above -- not an accident ...

Be aware that topside oil changes are considered by some to be heresy, or at least controversial; tests have shown, however, that draining oil via a Topsider or equivalent device removes at least as much oil as the gravity method.

Also, if you do chose to take off and leave off your "noise encapsulation panel" (that's the official name of the fiber panel under the engine), you may shorten the life of one of the driveshaft support bearings, and maybe even the alternator, as the panel helps keep water from the road off those parts.

The service manual is available as a 2 CD-ROM set from many suppliers, probably including Fastlane (our host).

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Steve
'93 400E

The oil is sucked out at the dealerships because it is much more efficient for them, thus it makes more money. Draining oil from the bottom and then taking it somewhere and dumping it in a tank is time consuming. The dealership service department is a profit center.

So, they are not doing it this way because it does a better job. They can do a good enough job that way, and it makes them more money.

It is still more economical and thorough for the DIYer to drain it out the bottom. The belly pans are no problem to remove and replace at oil change time.

Additionally draining the oil from the bottom gives you a chance to check everything underneath on a regular basis.

Have a great day,