Hi,
On my 190e, I notice that I rear window defroster isn't working. Check and replace fuse already. The switch seems to be normal with the light coming on after it's switched on. Just wondering if their is a relay for the heated rear window or something else is wrong. Please help, thanks.

Having a similar problem with the rear defroster on the '73 280 SEL. The fuse (on the firewall) checked and replaced for good measure. When the switch is pulled the switch lights up, but the rear window doesn't clear.

Where does the power feed connect to the heating element? On my window the element appears to run all the way to the edge of the glass, but I find no connection. When I do find the connection, how can I test the element?

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Mike Tangas
73 280 SEL 4.5

I'd like to post a follow-on question here, if I may.

I KNOW why my 300SD doesn't defrost, because 2/3 of the wires are not getting power.

Is there any practical way to re-connect the wires to power, or bridge where they may be broken, short of replacing the rear window?

Wondering if anyone has tried this.

BCingU, Jim


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'96 E300D 58k mi (wife's daily ride)
'95 Audi 90 118k mi
'92 GMC Suburban 138k mi
'85 300SD 230k mi (my daily ride)

I have lost about 2/3 of the wires in the back of the '85 SD. Can these be re-connected, or is the only solution to replace the rear window?

Hoping for a less-expensive solution...

BCingU, Jim

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'96 E300D 58k mi (wife's daily ride)
'95 Audi 90 118k mi
'92 GMC Suburban 138k mi
'85 300SD 230k mi (my daily ride)

Sorry, my browser didn't show my first post, so I though I'd lost it. I'm not trying to ask twice...

The defroster traces can be repaired. There are kits you can get to do this. Some glass shops also offer this service. It can be done in DIY mode, but you have to be tidy and follow the instructions. If you have that many out, see if you can get an estimate for the repair. This also may be covered by your insurance as this may pose a potential safety issue. It wouldn't hurt to ask...

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Jeff Lawrence
1989 300e
2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE

I have repaired numerous breaks on my 1979 300D. First you have to locate exactly where the breaks are so you can dab on the liquid copper defroster stuff. Turn on the defroster. Using a voltmeter and the + probe, gently slide along each element. Good elements will show a gradual voltage drop as you move from the + side towards the - side. If you find a sudden drop to 0 volts then you found a break. You may have several breaks on a given element so you may have to repeat the procedure until you find them all. You have to be carefull with the liquid copper stuff and don't turn the defroster on until it has dried. Otherwise your repairs will go "poof" and you will have to redo your repair.

I haven't looked closely, but the defroster element appears intact. I will take a closer look at the traces for evidence of cracking or separation. Will also try testing with the volt meter, I'm assuming ground the neg probe to the body and use the pos probe on the traces.

Now which sides of the rear window are considered the pos and neg sides? Also, where does the power lead attach? I would like to verify that I am getting power to the element too.

Thanks to all.

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Mike Tangas
73 280 SEL 4.5

I believe that it doesn't matter which probe side you use, most Multimeter's will show a correct numeric reading regardless (only a + or - sign in front of the reading for digital will show if it is correct or not).

The Pos probe should tell you pretty quickly which side has the juice.

Hope this helps.

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Ross
96 C280, Greenish Black

Found a relevant website www.frostfighter.com
that offers repair kits. They also offer a repair facility lookup function. I found a shop about 50 miles from here.

Once I have done some troubleshooting I'll decide whether to take it to the shop, or DIY. I hope to keep you posted

BCingU, Jim

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'96 E300D 58k mi (wife's daily ride)
'95 Audi 90 118k mi
'92 GMC Suburban 138k mi
'85 300SD 230k mi (my daily ride)