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  #1  
Old 05-24-2004, 09:48 PM
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Rear Left Window does not go down..

I can hear like a clicking noise when I press the down button on the console and from the rear door button.
What can i check? why does it not go down. Is the motor in there dead?

thanks
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  #2  
Old 05-24-2004, 11:53 PM
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You hear a clicking noise at the switch, or inside the rear door? Does the glass move at all? I think that car has a combo motor/regulator - very pricey, around $250 I think.
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  #3  
Old 05-25-2004, 10:42 AM
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Not quite $250...more like $140 per side (the rear assemblies are different from the fronts). Not sure how that translates in Canadian dollars...

My first thought would be dirty console switches, but since it does not operate with either the console or door switch I would think that it probably is something in the assembly.

But check the fuse first...hate to have you rip the door panel off only to find that to be the problem.

The most prevalent problem with these W124 window assemblies is a $2 plastic piece that maintains the jaw angle of the glass track holder as it raises and lowers. When it gives up, it can cause the whole assembly to bugger up and jam. The window motor may not be able to overcome the load, so it just switches off if it senses an unusual current draw.

Generally, the complaint is that you can lower the window but not raise it fully. Otherwise, it may be that the motor has given up too.

You will have to remove the door panel to investigate, but that's my first guess. The good news is that you can get the $2 piece seperately...but you certainly don't have to pay nearly as much as $250 to replace the assembly (which isn't a difficult task, btw)...
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  #4  
Old 05-25-2004, 11:13 PM
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gbenz,
i test if there is current going to the switches, there is a reading.
so I dont think its the fuse.
What is this 2 dollar part you speak of?
whats the part number, and can i get it from partsshop/dealership
thanks
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  #5  
Old 05-26-2004, 12:26 AM
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The rears that year were a combination regulator/motor - with pricing going up the way they are it's likely to be more than $250. The $140 price sounds like a regulator only. But I agree - look for the $2 part first. I couldn't tell from your description whether the glass was moving at all - if it is you've got a shot at the $2 part.
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  #6  
Old 05-26-2004, 01:00 AM
tex tex is offline
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G-Benz, do you (or anyone) know a source where
we can find the rear window regulator guide jaw
for a w124?

Darrell
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  #7  
Old 05-26-2004, 01:01 PM
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Do a search on this topic...someone else mentions the part being available. I wasn't aware of this until AFTER I replaced both assemblies a year apart!

And yeah, the complete window assembly (motor and regulator) went for $140 when I purchased it...the most recent swap out was in 2001...doubtful of a 100% markup in a few short years...
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  #8  
Old 05-26-2004, 01:22 PM
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to G-Benz


They are now $269.00 Are you sure that you didn't replace the front one without the motor?
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  #9  
Old 05-26-2004, 03:26 PM
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I see that FastLane has them for $269.

I still have my old receipt. I did pay $140 for the entire rear assembly. Not sure why such a price hike...perhaps made entirely out of petroleum?

BTW, Fastlane also has the guide jaws available for under $6...
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  #10  
Old 05-26-2004, 05:32 PM
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Common problem for W124 and W201 cars. Our 190E has a non-operating driver's side rear window, and it will probably go off to car-heaven like that. It's diagnosis is the whole assembly thingy and it's about $400CDN, plus time if you don't DIY.
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  #11  
Old 05-30-2004, 01:05 AM
rayxoxo
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 14
Rear Left Window does not go down..

Hi Oasis100;

For what it is worth...

I'm really an amateur at this but I am working on my 83 300SD pass. front window, which goes down but won't go up...

I started by tearing out the interior door paneling and was about to remove the entire window assembly to get to the motor, but after removing 3 nuts and dropping the mechanism down so that I could disassemble the motor, started getting paranoid and put it all back together and decided to test the motor with my 6 amp battery charger...

I disconnected the 2 wires coming from the motor, from a screw type terminal...

They were a grn/y and a blk/w (in my case) coming from the motor...

I hooked up the red to the grn/y and the black to the blk/w...

The window went up...

I reversed the battery leads and the window went down...

Conclusion: Motor is OK...

If the motor is bad on yours I apologize for the long-windedness...

Just thought I would share my mistakes with you...

And I don't like paying outrageous prices for any parts... Mercedes or not... ;>)

Good luck...

Later,
Ray

300SD 83
Dakota 94
50cc trike 2003, single spd automatic
50cc trike 2003, 3pd & reverse automatic
21 spd bike
Legs 1938
;>)
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  #12  
Old 05-30-2004, 06:08 AM
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same problem with front passenger window

Hi,

I had the same problem with the front passenger window on my 126. The clicking I heard came from the door, so I removed the trim, uncrewed the motor housing from the regulator (two star bit screws) and tried the switch. The motor was kicking round beautifully. I then unbolted the reglator frame from the iside of the door and this is the messy bit. I used about half a can of wd40 on the regulator jaws, and up inside the regulator and worked it back and for a good few times until the movement of the window against the mechanism was smooth. Upon reassembly the window now works fine.

If your window hasn't been used very often, chances are that it has just siezed up at the regulator.

Try this before spending $$$$$$$, if your motor/regualtor assembly is all one piece, and they cannot be separated then this may be difficult, but either way you may want to remove them and check.
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