|
|
|
|
|
#1
05-29-2004, 01:44 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
window went down and stayed down
Hi All;
re: 83 300sd... Today my front passenger side window went part way down and would not go up... After hitting the down button again it went down further, but would not go up... And now it is all the way down and is still lying dead in the door panel... Motor can be heard on the down button... No sound is heard when the up button is pushed... I checked the fuses... (I think so, anyway) Any and all help to at least get the window to go up would be appreciated... TIA, Ray 
|
|
#3
05-29-2004, 03:25 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
did the window drop inside the door, because that's a sign of a faulty window regulator. but if the window is still intact then it could very well be the switch. did u try both the switches, in the center console and in the door ? if they're both not working, then I would think it's probably the motor. the window regulator issue is common on the w124's but not so sure about your body style.
good luck.
__________________
Whether you think you can or cannot, Either way you're right!. by Henry Ford.
|
|
#4
05-29-2004, 06:03 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Mine did the same thing a while back, it was the sliding jaw. The good news (if this is the problem) is that the part is about $10.00. The bad news is that you have to remove the entire window regulator and basically mash the metal head of the new sliding jaw into the location of the old one. It is MUCH easier to just replace the entire thing (about $100.00.) If the motor still makes noise, the fise and or switch is still good. Pull the door panel and see what's going on.
justin
|
|
#5
05-29-2004, 04:38 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
window went down and stayed down
Thanks for the tips folks...
After investigating a little further... Removed the door paneling and tested the motor... It checked out ok and I brought the window back up, just to be able to lock the car up... Used a 6 Amp battery charger hooked to the two wires going to the motor, after disconnecting them from their original terminals (2)... By reversing the + and - leads on the charger, could raise and lower the window... Was glad I checked it before I torn the whole window mechanism to shreds... ;>) I placed a volt meter to the 2 terminals (1 black/white & the other is green/yellow) I get 12V on the up switch but nada/nothing on the down button... I have the CD from Mercedes but it is a real pain to find things in it without pulling out my hair... lol Does anyone know if the fuses are individual, for up and down??? Also, from the CD, swapped the fuses and a couple of the relays but I was not really sure which is which... Duh... I think that my next step is to tear into the center console where the switches are located... Is there an easy way to get to these switches??? Thanks again guys... I appreciate the really fast responses... Cheers, Ray
|
|
#6
05-30-2004, 03:30 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
The up/down action of the switch is on the same fuse. Getting to the buttons is pretty easy (here is the readers digest version.)
pull the ashtray, remove the "pocket" immediately below, slide the wood trim containing the switched toward the front of the car and pull up. Then just gently rock out the plugs to each switch. justin
|
|
#7
05-31-2004, 12:16 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
window went down and stayed down
Hello all;
Well, it is all fixed and working again... With all of your help and encouragement... I must say that it was much easier to repair than it was to write about...lol Firstly, I want to thank all of you for your input and help... May that help return to you ten fold... As to the repair of a downed window on an 1983 300SD, assuming that the other hints have been checked out also: This is not including what "Benz300" and "JustinMorrison" have mentioned about the mechanical failure... That is an entirely different problem... The order of testing is up to the individual... I did it the hard way... lol 1. Check fuses... 2. Check motor with 12V supply, a 2 amp charger was not enough power to activate the motor... 6 amp charger was enough to raise or lower the window... Could also use another battery... (remember to disconnect the motor from the rest of the circuit)... Disconnecting just one wire would probably work... 3. The switches were removed without taking the console apart... With a small screwdriver or a pocket knife... By gently prying on the long ends of the switches and pushing them inward, toward the switches themselves... You can break them if you are not careful... As you squeeze them in, apply a little lifting power at the same time... They popped right out... The switches are interchangeable, the right side with the left, etc... So, you can check if it is a switch problem... After determining that "jrmd01", was the winner, I decided that my choice was to either get a new/used switch or to try fixing the bad one... I had nothing to lose so I noted that the rocker sw. top button section could be popped open by using a pocket knife... It came apart fairly easy, but be careful, there are 2 beebee size bearings and springs inside buried in grease... So parts can get lost quite easily... I found that one of the bearings had slipped out from under one of the loaded springs... Springs are weak, so not to worry... Put it back together and the switch worked like a champ... Total cost $0... and 4 gray hairs... ;>) Hope these notes will help the next in line due for the window woes... Be of good cheer, Ray 300SD 83 Dakota 94 50cc trike 2003, single spd automatic 50cc trike 2003, 3pd & reverse automatic 21 spd bike Legs 1938 ;>)
|
 |
| Bookmarks |
|
|
Linear Mode
