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  #1  
Old 10-13-2000, 12:00 AM
300EVIL's Avatar
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Location: Lake Geneva, WI.
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whenever i top off my oil in my 87 300e i notice the brown film that forms on my internal parts,,, camshaft, rockers, ect.
im shure putting motor oil flush in wouldn't
"new dream a-way" all that crud i see but, dose it get rid of the large crud deposits like it says it dose on the bottle? is this stuff really worth it for preventative mantinance reasons? will it hurt my engine?
if it is worth the 5 to 10 bucks, what are some good brands to use?
thanks for your time and i'm looking foward to your responce!
adam

------------------
87 300E
BLACK GOLD WITH CREAM INTERIOR, SPOILER, AIRDAM
CLEAR MARKERS

87 420SEL
BRONZE WITH CREAM INTERIOR
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  #2  
Old 10-13-2000, 07:31 AM
LarryBible
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Adam,

You won't have to read very many of my posts to determine that I am an oil change fanatic. I believe that the best way to "flush" an engine is with frequent and THOROUGH oil changes.

If you have an engine that has not had adequate oil changes or has had an open thermostat which has allowed the engine to run too cool, excessive sludge can be the result. If you will use a motor flush carefully, and follow the directions properly, this can help you to "catch up".

Whether you "catch up" with flush, or some good oil changes, put your engine on a strict oil and filter change program.

You should use quality oil of the right specification for your car. A gas engine should have SJ, and a diesel should have CG, I believe. If you don't use Mobil 1, a good choice would be a "universal" grade oil. This is what the truckers use in their diesels. Good brands are Chevron Delo, Shell Rotella and others. There is now also Mobil Delvac 1, which is a universal grade. These oils have extra doses of detergents and cleaners. They meet specification for gas engines.

When changing oil, it is IMPORTANT to drain it while the engine is at operating temperature. It usually takes about 17 miles of driving for an engine to reach operating temperature. When an engine is warming up, the oil temperature lags the coolant temperature quite a bit. So you need this 17 miles or so to completely warm the oil. Operating temperature oil drain accomplishes two important things, the oil is thin and comes out better and more completely AND the contaminants (sludge) are churned up (suspended) in the oil.

In your current situation, one more step that would help would be to drain the oil on Friday night or some other night when you can let it drain overnight. The last drops that come out during a drain are PURE SLUDGE.

Sorry for the oil lecture, but I truly believe that this is the best way to clean your engine. Draining the oil is the ONLY method you have to clean the engine internally.

Also, since I didn't mention it, don't even think of changing your oil without simultaneously changing the filter. Detroit reccomended filter change every other oil drain for many years. You are leaving a quart of dirty oil in your engine when you do this. Detroit would much rather sell you another car than another oil filter.

Best of luck,
Change oil hot and change oil often,

------------------
Larry Bible
'01 C Class, Six Speed
'84 Euro 240D, 533K miles
'88 300E 5 Speed
'81 300D Daughter's Car
Over 800,000 miles in
Mercedes automobiles

[This message has been edited by LarryBible (edited 10-13-2000).]
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  #3  
Old 10-13-2000, 12:13 PM
Jay Jay is offline
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Larry, I didn't know that it takes longer for the oil to come up to tempature then the coolant. Thank you. I try to let my oil drain for as long as I can and even after an hour or two I find that it is still dripping. Maybe I'll try your ALL NIGHTER.
Thank you ,Jay
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  #4  
Old 10-13-2000, 01:20 PM
Geezer
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Holland, MI
Posts: 1,316
If you want to see some REAL scary stuff, wait until the oil is really cole, like 30 or so overnight. Then, run the engine for about 5 minutes. Shut it down and look in the filler cap.

I did this years ago for some reason or other and saw what looked like a chocolate milkshake!

Until the oil is HOT enough LONG enough, condensation will not evaporate and you have an oil and water emulsion. Long trips are better than short, so take the LONG way to work and enjoy that M-B drive longer. :big grin:

BCingU, Jim

------------------
'96 E300D 60k mi (wife's daily ride)
'95 Audi 90 120k mi
'92 GMC Suburban 139k mi
'85 300SD 234k mi (my daily ride)
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  #5  
Old 10-13-2000, 01:22 PM
Geezer
 
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Location: Holland, MI
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sorry, but in above post, cole = colD

I've got to learn to proofread BEFORE hitting submit!

BCingU, Jim
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  #6  
Old 10-13-2000, 03:32 PM
Jay Jay is offline
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Ha Jim, I always put "really cool" oil in my cars.
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  #7  
Old 10-13-2000, 06:44 PM
300EVIL's Avatar
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Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Lake Geneva, WI.
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i guess i really don't need engine flush or synthetic oil since i change my oil and filter every 2k.
thanks for everyones help!
adam

------------------
87 300E
BLACK GOLD WITH CREAM INTERIOR, SPOILER, AIRDAM
CLEAR MARKERS

87 420SEL
BRONZE WITH CREAM INTERIOR
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  #8  
Old 10-13-2000, 08:17 PM
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Location: Toronto, CANADA
Posts: 1,193
Best bet is to take the car out on a really long hard run. Get the revs up, up hills, etc. That should burn off a lot of crud. Then change it hot. It should be as good as an engine flush.

JP Toronto
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  #9  
Old 10-21-2000, 12:05 AM
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Posts: 638
The STP stuff really does work, and if you have visible 'brown film' , you need it badly. You also need to change your oil much more frequently. And I suggest using Mobil's new 'drive clean' oil. You also need to use good quality gasoline. The cheap stuff doesn't have the detergent and additive packages that clean up and keep the intake clean, and you get lots more crud into the oil.
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