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#1
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Stumped by stopping
I have a wierd problem. My 280se 3.5 will start up run smooth and then just like you turn the ignition key to the stop position it stops-period. It will not re-start.
I am stumped because I have replaced or reconditioned quite a few parts. Each replacement part makes an improvement but there is still this nagging problem of stopping. It just stops. I have checked the fuel lines, the cold start valve, the thermostat and the warm running device. I have replaced the points with a Pertronix unit and flame thrower coil. I replaced the alternator and voltage regulator because the engine acted funny when I turned on the light switch and switched from low to high beams. The engine was purring like a kitten today and then it just stopped......... |
#2
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Quote:
I ran a separate ground wire from the distributer casing when I installed my Pertronix (put a ring connector on one of those small screws and ran it directly to the battery negative. If not a ground, I would check all the other engine ignition wiring. Also check that the connector for the trigger points is inserted properly and making proper contact. My SL engine manual gives methods for troubleshooting both components and wiring - If you don't have manual for your engine, there is one on-line somewhere - maybe under w116. Good Luck
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Graham 85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5 |
#3
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Have you done some tests to see what exactly you're losing? You losing spark or fuel? You losing power to the coil? Power to the fuel pump?
It's interesting that it dies and won't restart, but then at some point it appears that you are able to start it. Next time it does it, pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap, place it near something metal and crank the engine over. If you get a fat blue spark, you know you're not losing your ignition. So then move to the fuel system and crack a fuel line loose up on the fuel rail. Crank the engine over and see if you get a nice spray of fuel (put the coil wire back into the distributor so you don't light that mist of fuel on fire though would you?) Once you know what you're losing, you can find out why. For example, maybe your ignition switch is failing internally!! But you need to prove it, don't just throw parts at it.
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1966 W111 250SEC:
DB268 Blaugrün/electric sunroof/4 on-the-floor/4.5 V-8 rear axle |
#4
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I have the 6cyl model-technically a 2.7. I am wondering if I have a short in the distributor. This problem is happening after warmup (thermostat open) and this evening after tooling around in the yard for awhile I felt some confidence so I pulled into the drive and turned off the car. When I tried to re-start-nothing.
I will check the grounds and run a wire direct from the distributor as you suggest. |
#5
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So is it a 3.5 V8 with D-Jet or a 2.8L MFI I6?
If it's the 3.5 V8 with D-Jet electronic FI, then it sounds like your ECU is either losing power when warm or the ECU itself is bad. I agree with checking the ground. If it's the MFI 6-cyl, then it could be a fuel distributor issue. Open one of the metal lines when it won't start and see if fuel comes out while cranking.
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
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