67 250S New Project Question

[liondancer]

I've heard of a term call "rodding out" the radiator. Would this be similar procedure to what you are speaking of when talking about a rebuild?

Originally Posted by todds

The radiators in these cars are easily rebuildable, unlike the plastic stuff in newer cars. Mine ran hot too, then I took the radiator out and took it to a local old-school radiator shop in the back of a barn where they fixed it in a few days for $45. They also did bus radiators, which looked like giant versions of old benz radiators :-)

It is very easy to remove, only a few bolts, and you can do the thermostat at the same time. It's nice to start with the baseline of a known good radiator.

[todds]

Basically, yeah. The whole radiator is just soldered together, all they do is take off the top and bottom tanks and clear out the tubes in the core section that the little fins go around. Then they solder the tanks back on and paint it and pressure test it. When the core is beyond help you need a re-core, which costs more.

[liondancer]

When refinishing the interior wood parts, what do you do if there are rips or tears in the wood veneer? I have some pieces that have tears on the tips. Do I sand these down?

I need to find a 25amp short ceramic fuse. Any ideas where to find it?
I got a fuse kit from the dealer which contains a 25amp long fuse (red). In the car though, the fuse is a short one with a extension coupler on it. Seems like I can just break that off and stick in the long fuse. Any suggestions?

[Todd Miller]

Attempt to glue the veneer back down with wood glue.

I use a dremel tool and grind off the little brass rivet hold that fuse extension in place, and the put a regular length fuse in. I know it's butchery, but that's what I do since I'm not entering concours shows or flying it to the moon.

[liondancer]

What if the veneer piece is missing?

[Todd Miller]

You could patch in some veneer if you're good with wood, or fill it with wood putty and attempt to color the putty to match and then stain-and-clear coat, like you were going to do.

I'm no wood expert though.

[vwnate1]

The U-Pick U-Save self service junkyard has a section in the very back of the yard where a nice lady is selling charity donated cars , she's hot to clear the lot as it's jammed ~ this car is decent and has the original Ca. 6 digit license plates on it and a regular tiel , NOT salvage ! .

Vermont just South of the 91 freeway.....

Go GET IT ! .

I'd do it but no space to store the darned thing .

Oh yeah : it's a W-114 Coupe with carby , not injected .

There's a decent 560SL there too.... runs great .

[Cal Learner]

Originally Posted by liondancer

What if the veneer piece is missing?

You may have luck at a salvage yard finding the piece you need. If it comes to it, there are places that re-veneer these pieces, and they do it period correct. Check out the 2 links:

http://www.heritagewoodworks.com/home.htm

http://www.maderaconcepts.com/

[liondancer]

Where can i get some interior window molding trim pieces. These look to be covered in mesh or cotton cloth that have frayed over time. I believe the service manual calls this a sealing strip.

So I just stripped the window wood pieces and revealed that it had already been refinished before. Bad job. So I am looking into flexible veneers. Sounds like a fun job. Any idea what wood the original is? Looks walnut-ty.

Peter

[Cal Learner]

If the window moulding trim pieces you're speaking of are rubber covered in fabric, essentially cloth covered weatherstripping, the fabric is called windlace, and can be acquired from World Upholstery & Trim in Santa Paula, CA. The web address is: http://www.worlduph.com/

The correct OEM parts may also still be available through the MBUSA Classic Center in Irvine. They'd also be an invaluable resource for questions like what the correct color of the wood treatment was. That's their role, to help keep vintage Mercedes running and looking like new, and equipped correctly for their vintage.

[liondancer]

Wow, good resource there. The rubber looks good, just need to be rewrapped in the windlace. Although I think these run inside the frame of the door panel. What do you call the edge that the window meets as it comes up and down?

[Todd Miller]

I've always considered the "windlace" as what goes around the door opening on the body. It presses onto the weld flange of the body. The cloth covering is sold in a variety of colors by a seller on Ebay Germany and a few of us on the googlegroups heckflosse email list have used him.

On the actual door, there is a rubber squeegy on the outside of the door glass, and that's called "the door waste rail seal." On the inside is typically a fuzzy strip, at the top of the door panel, but I don't know the correct name for it.

[Cal Learner]

Originally Posted by Todd Miller

I've always considered the "windlace" as what goes around the door opening on the body. It presses onto the weld flange of the body.

Right, that's what I was asking the OP, whether he was referring to that part or something else. One of the difficulties we have is that MB refers to these things by different names over the years (or with different chassis). So we may be talking about the same things and using different names for them, or they may be something entirely different. Sorry if I confused the matter.

[liondancer]

Anyone know how the vdo clock comes out of the instrument cluster?

[bwostosh]

You must pull the whole instrument cluster out.
This involves a whole thread. real tricky job......