M130 crankshaft noise

[twinockchef]

Ijust replaced the crank on my 2.8 for under $900 and Metric Motors will do the same job for $2000 (with shipping).
While the motor is out would be a the best time to address any small problems. Replacing the engine, in a lot of ways, is more difficult and expensive.

[Benz Dr.]

Just read this - thanks for the plugs guys.

It depends where you live. If you are near Toronto I'm not that far from you. There are two M130 engines - FI and carbed. I have both here but I'm not sure about the FI one ( 280SE sedan ) because I've never seen it running.
I also have a 250C with a 2.8 carbed engine. It ran when I bought the car but the intake manifold gasket was leaking. I never did get to drive the car because the diff had fallen out of the car and was more or less right on the ground. grrrrrrrr

You will need to pull the engine to do the job properly and will likely need to pull the head. This car looks like a W114 250 and is possibly a euro model.

15 PSI is low but not that low. The oil pressure gauge should be pegged at 1,500 RPM, not 2,000 RPM. That may not seem like much of a difference but it is. Looking at your video tells me a few things, your engine is burning oil and you have your sound turned up too high on your camera, or you're standing too close. Ticking noises can be heard better from further away.
However, I don't think it's the bottom end at all. Here's a test you can do. From a cold engine, does the sound increase or is it there all of the time? Most rod bearing problems will produce almost no sound until the cold oil thins out a bit. If you remove and replace the spark plug wires one at a time the cylinder with the bad rod bearing will quit making noise.
The sharpness of the sound is also a clue. Rod bearing noise is much more rapid than valve lash noise. It will sound more like someone knocking on your door while valve rocker noise is more metalic and not as fast.

I would remove your valve cover ( interesting red colour with the air breather ) and look at the cam lobes and rockers. It's amazing how much noise these things will produce. Rod bearings usually don't last very long if they're making that much noise.
If the cam is toast, so are the affected rockers and ball studs. You could rebuild the head and then find that the bottom end lets go which is why you would be advised to have a look at that too.

A used engine would be your best choice. PM me for more help should you need it.

[kavadarci1]

I'm in Pickering area.
The car is US version 250C W114 with M130V engine. I upgraded the headlights to euro.
The engine is smooth as glass cold, no ticking sounds or funny noises. just good old pistons engine working good.

Once the engine warms up is when the problem starts, (the ticking is there) and under load driving 60 km/h or faster it sounds like a fast metalic flapping (the best I can describe). If i am holding the gas at speed you can barely hear it but the minute i press the gas the flapping is really loud.

Maybe its time to provide info on what I have done so far on the car. I brought the car to my garage on a flat bed in december 2012 and didn't drive it until the first snow was gone so I can't confirm if the noise was there before or I caused it.

Things I have done (that might affect the engine sound):
1. Transmission oil and filter changed with oem parts.
2. Rear differential oil changed.
3. New spark plug wires (oem)
4. Champion spark plugs RM9YC(I have tried bosch platinum and they didn't work)
5. Oil change and oem filter (oil is Rotella T 15w 40)
6. New power steering hose and oil
7. New coolant and oem thermostat
8. Adjusted the valves to 0.003 and 0.007 as per the manual (they were all more than that and you could hear them, now there is no sound from the top of the cover, it's smooth)
No indication of wear on the camshaft that "I" could notice.
9. Timing adjusted to ~10 ATDC no vacuum (I have tried different timing variations and if it's set to BTDC 10 for example, it runs rough and spits back but doesn't tick on high rpms
10. The car has krane electronic ignition (came like that).
12. Piston compression
1 = 100
5 = 100
3 = 120
6 = 130
2 = 120
4 = 100
13. Idle is at 800 rpm
14. Cold start is proper, the car starts always at the first crank, cold or hot
15. Power is there, it doesn't feel that is lacking (I'm sure is not as new or rebuild but doesn't feel like the engine is struggling) I can do 120 km/h but I am afraid to push with this noise


That's all I can remember for now. I will try Dr. Benz suggestions.
What puzzles me is that the timing can affect the ticking/pinging/flapping

Thank you.

[1960mog]

Originally Posted by kavadarci1

Once the engine warms up is when the problem starts, (the ticking is there) and under load driving 60 km/h or faster it sounds like a fast metalic flapping (the best I can describe). If i am holding the gas at speed you can barely hear it but the minute i press the gas the flapping is really loud.

As you describe it, it could be a exhaust leak.

[kavadarci1]

Originally Posted by 1960mog

As you describe it, it could be a exhaust leak.

I might have a leak but the metallic sound is coming from the bottom part of the engine, not exhaust sound

[kavadarci1]

so i tried to remove the cables of each spark plug and after checking all of the plugs, the sound didn't change, in other words i can hear the ticking all the time.

i have removed the valve cover and to "me" everything looks good.
here is a video, not sure if the chain is too loose or not.

thank you.

M130 valves - YouTube

[mosu]

Bringing this back to life - did you end up finding the source of the noise and/or resolving it?