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#1
12-02-2018, 10:16 PM
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cleaning up rust in petrol tank
Hi all, so I have a 80L tank now from a 280E (78) to put into my 300D but, it has a little rust in it. How did you guys clean this?
and what sizes are the hoses under the fuel tank? I was thinking: Vinegar Toilet cleaner I have a few pictures of the inside of the tank.   
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#2
12-02-2018, 11:11 PM
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Is taking it to a radiator shop an option in your area to get it professionally cleaned?
If the rust is scaly, I've heard of putting a small amount of sharp/pointed gravel in tanks and moving/shaking the tank around alot (sounds tiring). Only do this if it would be easy to get the gravel completely removed. Vinegar? EvapoRust? Pressure wash? Definitely worth a try. Good luck!!!
__________________
"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer
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#4
12-03-2018, 12:19 AM
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The tank has ''six sides'' will let the vinegar sit one side a day. I just have the vinegar just an hour in and its getting rust loose:
 Another question is could I blow in hot air with a heatgun to make the process quicker? Its a dry tank with no fuel in it. Last edited by jsp300D; 12-03-2018 at 03:03 AM.
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#5
12-03-2018, 01:57 AM
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POR15 make a tank sealer and cleaner kit in one - I've never used it before though so I can't really recommend.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior  Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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#6
12-07-2018, 03:38 PM
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If there is a urethane lining kit out there may be your best bet. I was wondering if it was just dried out gas residue. I cannot really see the tank to tell. I might depending flush the vinegar out and try some laquer thinner. If it really changes color it is not rust. Laquer thinner has no effect on rust.
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#12
12-17-2018, 06:02 AM
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If you scrape the sides I bet you get to find fresh rust.
You are better off using Evaporust or Rustyco if you can afford it - seriously expensive stuff however. In the Land Rover world they rave on about electrolysis as a rust removing process - I've not tried it myself yet...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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#13
12-17-2018, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
A lot of the old tractor guys do this, it works. However, the parts need to be baked to drive out hydrogen otherwise you get embrittlement.
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#14
12-17-2018, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
The Land Rover lot (so to speak) don't mention baking at gas mark 4 afterwards - and don't seem to mention cracking... ...probably because cracking Birmabright is considered to be normal on a Land Rover so why would they worry about the steel too (!)... ...I wonder how many of them consider this at all. I'm guessing not many - if any. From now on I shall forewarn.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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#15
12-18-2018, 04:16 AM
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Quote:
Let's wait and see
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