Hello folks:

I just joined the forum, having lurked for a couple weeks, and wanted to tell you about a recent acquisition.

A year ago, I picked up a nice 1976 280C for very little money to be my daily driver. It's orange, and the interior in cognac mb-tex, with only 2 small rips in the whole thing. Headliner perfect, carpet perfect. Very nice condition cosmetically, at least. So despite the awful fuel economy from the M110(10-11 mpg combined city/hwy), I really like this car and intend to gradually return it to its original condition.

There is a whole laundry list of niggling items that need to be fixed: vacuum system for door locks and seat backs; a/c worked at purchase, stopped the day after; replace front windshield seal and driver's side window rubber;turn signal lever won't stay up or down; fix engine temp gauge; refinish dash wood; rebuild/replace solex carb; possible top-end overhaul eventually. None of these items prevents me from using the car, but my enjoyment is impaired by them.

In any case, today I wanted to ask about a specific item: Has anyone ever successfully replaced the heater fan in the 114? The fan basically quit during a run across the Mojave desert last summer (I was running it at max to dissipate engine heat). I have heard that the R&R is about 16 hours altogether, due to having to remove most of the dash, which really makes this either a DIY or forget it. I have read in another forum about an alternative method that involves approaching the fan through the front fresh air intake(directly in front of the windshield), after having sawn through the metal under the intake. Has anybody on the list attempted this and if so what were your results? I don't mind putting the body under the knife, so to speak, as I don't think this model really has much classic value (yet) or potential to appreciate in value.

I admit to not successfully removing the blower. They Haynes manual says to remove the dash and center console, which is quite a job.

Are you sure that it is the motor and not the wiring or one of the vacuum switches?

Good luck.

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Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe

Thomas,

Welcome to the Shop. Perhaps the following thread link will assist you in getting your turn signals back in order.

Turn Signal Switch

Best part about this fix is it's basically free (provided you have the tools).

Another rolling restoration in progress, love it.

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Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.

Hey Chuck and Mike:

Thanks a lot for your quick replies; i'm going to follow up on both of them at first light.

Chuck: i'm not sure it's the fan itself, and having read your reply i think i should do a bit more checking before i undertake major surgery...but i have a creeping feeling that is really the root of the problem since it seems to be such a common and frightful failure. But i'll eliminate the other (more easily fixed) possible causes first.

Mike: thanks a lot for that link. incidentally, i saw your piece on the repair of the lever the day before yesterday and was instantly inspired to go out and fix the bugger. alas, the internals of the switch were in pretty bad shape--there is a vertical spring held at either end by a pin attached to "left" and "right" positions on the switch. well, on mine, there is only now the upper pin and a dangling spring...and an adhesive mark where once probably the lower pin was attached. its a little hard to describe. anyway, having seen that i think replacing the whole unit will be the only way...have you or anyone heard that the lever arm and switch assembly from a w123 is an easy swap? i'll check it out and let people know if it works.

You're right, it's a rolling restoration, and the biggest challenge so far is keeping my wife away from it so i can get to work on it.

Anyway, thanks much for the suggestions and i look forward to contributing as well as learning a lot.

best regards

You might try TMC in Baltimore for a used combination switch. 410.789.7896. Ask for Bob Neuberth.

Chuck

Thanks for the tip on the turn signals, Mike. It's surprising what one can learn just hanging around the group and reading.

Tom, your situation reflects a ton of other folks it seems.

ON THE#@+?%%$#@*& CARB: I've had mine down all the way. it's not much worse -if at all- than the usual 4-hole job. Just keep track of the parts. A big problem that I found was that the secondary rods were hanging up in the bore and required a bit of polishing of parts to allow them to go up and down freely. It made a big difference in getting all four to kick in when floored. Otherwise, it seemed to die when I booted it and made a big honking noise. (I later found a large Canadian goose down by the wheel well)
Expect 15 mpg and sometimes up to 19 on that long trip.
I've heard of the Quadrajet swap for better performance. Why a 2.8 can't get better mileage is one question I'd like to see answered.

Why does the A/C always go right after you get the car? They must have some sort of destruct program built in.
Make sure the magnetic clutch engages upon turning on the switch. Could be a couple of things other than the big-ticket compressor. Welcome to the club--best wishes.
Steve

Steve's right on on the AC. If memory serves (since I have not had a running 114 since 1992), you turn on the AC with the fan switch, and a vacuum valve moves the flaps into the right position and closes a circuit that engages the compressor through a relay. So check the vacuum stuff and the relay before blaming the compressor.

JAM Engineering has a replacement for the carb - they are on the web.

We are full of advice, aren't we?

Chuck

Steve, Chuck:

Thanks a lot for the warm welcome. Yeah, the carb is an especially big problem, but hey, it drives, so the carb is not at the top of the list for repairs. All this rain and cool weather in SoCal lately though makes that heater fan all the more urgent.

About the solex, though, when I first got the car, I noticed a gasoline smell while driving. A quick check revealed that the accelerator pump diaphragm was shot, and gas was dripping onto and pooling between the pipes on the intake manifold. YOW! So I replaced that right away. Also had a mechanic supposedly "rebuild" the carb, but when I got the car back, noticed he had failed to securely bolt it back onto the intake...If you want something done right, etc etc, and I will pay close attention to the secondaries when I rebuild it myself, since I have noticed that they are a little "sticky" right now, and it shows the same hesitiating symptoms you described. Thanks for the tip!

I've seen Jam Engineering's conversion, but that's a big chunk of change right now, and since it didn't show up under the Christmas tree, guess i'll have to wait on that. It looks like a nice piece of work though. I once converted my old Volvo from dual SU's to a single Weber and got a noticeable improvement in both performance and economy, so when my car project cookie jar fills up enough I will go for the conversion on the MB as well.

Probably I should troubleshoot the vacuum system, replacing valves and diaphragms where necessary first and then go after the a/c if it is still not working. I think it failed out of sheer perversity, but it will be some months before I really need it working.

It might be nice to get a manual of some sort for the car. Any suggestions on what would be a good source? I see that Amazon stocks two Haynes manuals for 280's but don't seem to have anything covering the mid-seventies models with dohc 110 engine.

Thanks again for all the suggestions!

best regards,

In checking out the JAM prices, I notice they are just a few bucks shy of a super Holley After-market fuel injection system which I had considered some time ago. you get the whole enchilada with programable computer. Steve

Steve:

Interesting idea, to update to FI on the older 110 motor. Presumably one would have to replace the head as well? And as long as you're doing that, do a top-end overhaul. What is appealing about the setup from Jam is that the system is 50-state legal, and since my car is 76 model year, it is still subject to Calif emissions regs--and the Jam setup would be in compliance. I wonder if the same would be true of the Holley FI conversion. No question that, properly set up, fuel injection would improve every aspect of performance of that engine.

I suppose another way to get a similar result would be to use a donor engine/FI system from a 280E? I do have my doubts as to its economic feasibility, though. If I ever take the plunge in any of those directions, be sure I will give a full account to the forum!

best regards,

gs sparhawk

Who sells the holley after market fi conversion system.

Thanks

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Mike

Hello Thomas,
I had to replace my heater blower when I bought my 1972 250 4dr in 1988.
I did it myself. Took it easy over 2 days. Had it apart on the first day and back together on he second. You do NOT have to remove the entire dashboard. You do have to remove the console (both sections), the under-dash cardboard covers and the heater-AC unit and controls from under-behind the dash. The heater blower is the last part up under the cowl-firewll after everything else comes out. If your AC is dead from lack of freon, that makes things easier because th AC lines need to be disconnected when the heater-AC comes out. I cheerfully bought a NEW heater blower from my local MB dealer (list price over $200 in 1988) as I didn't want to repeat this job soon. Heater blower still works fine today. I strongly recommend against the 'Hack the Firewall open' method some have suggested! Feel free to ask me if you have any questions.
Good Luck, Mark DiSilvestro
1972 250 4DR (driver)
1972 250C (nice original car)
1961 180b (basket case)
1957 DKW 3=6 Coupe (weird!)
1967 Sunbeam Alpine (yes it's British!)

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DrDKW