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  #1  
Old 07-28-2004, 01:19 PM
HGV HGV is offline
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"New" Engine Installed No A/C

I just had a "new" engine installed on my 87 300TD. It has 146k miles on it and runs great. The olld engine had 250k and was tired. Burned oil, lack of lower, poor fuel consumption, and just old. I had rebuilt the head on it at 200k so I have a old short block with a "fresh" head. Will eventually take apart the engine and see what can be done.

The new engine came with a A/C compressowas questionable. THe old engine had a bad compressor. Well the questionable compressor is also bad. Not pressure across when engaged. Now I need to locate a new compressor and change it out.

Any suggestions on what I can do.?

Two bad compressors will not make a good one, but I assume I can try rebuild one or both. Or I can buy a rebuilt one. Any sources for a A/C compressor would be appreciated along with any advice on rebuilding one.

I also have a compet engine now minus a starter. Will have fun taking it apart.

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  #2  
Old 07-28-2004, 01:56 PM
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you can send me the "fresh" head for safe keeping... the SDL is at 280k+miles on good old head 14...
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  #3  
Old 07-28-2004, 01:56 PM
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Dieseldiehard
 
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Hi, Henry long time no hear.
I use Howard Radiator, just down the street from you. They have always been fair and don't replace a lot of hose fittings that some AC places like to do to justify charging more$$ They recharged my '87 and its still blowing cold despite the minute leak they thought they found around the compressor. The leak detectors they use are very sensitive and any breeze will make it more difficult to pinpoint the source of a Freon leak, and it was very windy the day they worked on my car last April.
Whatever you do, stay with R12.

The problem with the Nippondenso compressors is the possibility of black death, a syndrome that has something to do with the teflon coating on the compressor blades, when it chemically reacts with refrigerant under some conditions, I suspect it is when moisture gets into the system but can't be sure. Anyhow you want to hope that hasn't occurred because if it has the system has to be partially disassembled to properly flush it out.
Most people I know say stay away from the Delco rebuilds, unfortunately the cost of a new Nipp is way high if and when available. Most people I have heard use rebuilt.

BTW you need to have the VIN# before ordering a compressor because these come with 4.75 and 5.0 in dia pulleys. My source sells a rebuilt for $449, about twice what I paid for a new Delco!
I wish MB hadn't gone the route they did on these compressors.
DDH
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Old 07-30-2004, 05:16 PM
LarryBible
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If the compressor failed in any other way besides a leaking seal, you will have to THOROUGHLY flush the ENTIRE system before putting on the new compressor or the debris in the system will destroy your new compressor.

Good luck,
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  #5  
Old 07-30-2004, 06:41 PM
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also install a new receiver-drier. a good shop will not replace just the compressor...

been there, and done that....
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  #6  
Old 07-30-2004, 06:51 PM
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How do you know you don't have a bad a/c clutch and the compressor itself is OK?

If the compressor is seized, then the belts will squeal loudly when the compressor is engaged. IF the system is low on refridgerant, you'll need to test the compressor by jumping the low-pressure switch (provided its low on freon). If the belts squeal in this mode, then the compressor is seized.

If you can't get the compressor to squeal under any condition, then you ought to get the clutch checked first BEFORE assuming the compressor is seized. (Obviously the clutch needs power to engage, check your fuses and the relay).

Did I miss something? Anyone want to add something?
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  #7  
Old 07-30-2004, 07:23 PM
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Dieseldiehard
 
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If the belts squeal in this mode, then the compressor is seized.

Only one Serpentine Belt in this model, Eric.

Search for Klima and check out post by stevebfl he describes its function there.

The Klima relay is to protect the compressor in case it has any low pressure conditions in the W124 and other models, as well as protecting the engine I think, because if the belt siezes that will stop the water pump and alternator at the same time (then you got big problems instantly, like engine failure!)

The old style AC in pre-Serpentine Belt cars, left one with the option of cutting a V-belt if the compressor siezes up (sometimes the clutch siezes up on them and the belts smoke and squeal bad) and continuing to run with no problem.
DDH
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  #8  
Old 07-30-2004, 08:51 PM
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Re: If the belts squeal in this mode, then the compressor is seized.

Quote:
Originally posted by dieseldiehard
The Klima relay is to protect the compressor in case it has any low pressure conditions ...
I believe the low pressure switch is outside of the Klima relay. The Klima relay will cut the signal to the compressor if there is a compressor/engine rpm discrepancy or engine temp gets past the setpoint (105C? 107C?).

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  #9  
Old 07-31-2004, 09:55 AM
LarryBible
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You don't have to short anything and destroy your a/c drive belt to see if the compressor is siezed. Simply turn off engine and turn the front part of the compressor by hand. If it is free it will turn smoothly, if not you won't be able to turn it or when turning you will feel metallic crunching when it turns.

Good luck,

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