Thanks for all the sugestions. Just spoke with Phil and have all the seals, new engine mounts, and tranny bushings on the way. Saturday is the big day, I have a few guys comming over to help me. I couldn't find a floor jack so I figured they will lift the car while I work on it . Just kidding. I am going to put the rear wheels on oil ramps, and use floor jacks for the front. I hope everthing goes smoothly. I have two seprate mechanics who are going to oversee the whole ordeal, but they said that I need to learn how to do it.
Questions,
Do I access the allen bolts for the engine mounts from the top or from under the car?
I did purchase a new radiator, Thanks Bonehead.
To get the engine out, I lower the car back down and then tilt the engine out???? Doesn't seem like there will be enough room to tilt it far enough to angle it as such to pull it out.??
My last enigine only had 128 k when it overheated, do you think the water pump is still good????
Thanks all,
3 days and counting.

The Allen bolts are a 8mm hex, attached from underneath. Better to do that than remove the ones above. You can do the entire job without raising the car (I've done it), but if it makes it easier to disconnect stuff at trans + exhaust, raise it. I would definitely have it on all 4 wheels when the engine/trans is removed. The lower things are, the safer and more stable they are. As you raise it, you will start to tilt it. Go slowly, make doubly sure everything is disconnected and make sure the trans doesn't suddenly drop its far end against the floor. 3 people is more than enough.

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

the turnbuckles really helped. The cheapo engine tilter was a disappointment alone.

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__________________
'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

You will want to be able to turn the back tires when you roll the driveshaft around to remove the front flex disc. In addition, you will want a pneumatic ratchet to remove the flex disc fasteners. Speeds the job up alot. Don't forget to loosen the lock nut on the driveshaft to enable you to slide the front end back somewhat.

Also, I'll repeat Pete's suggestion of going slow. This is very important. Lift, stop, look and tilt - repeat till engine (when level) will clear the cross member above the radiator. Then you will want to roll the car back a little, level the engine a little and continue on until the engine is level enough to roll the car all the way out from under it. Don't try to roll the engine lift around until after you have lowered the engine back down close to the floor.

There are quiet a few other things that I can't remember just right now but you will come to them.

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Jim

The engine came today. Man is this thing big! I don't think I will try lifiting it on my own. I had asked previously about the engine tabs becasue a guy I talked to said they sometime will break off letting the engine fall. I don't want to get this far and have an engine drop on the front of my car.
Are there any specific torques I need to worry about. I am going to pull the other engine out, are there any parts I should keep off this thing, any parts worth anything?
Thanks again, I will let you know how things go. I will try to do a step by step with photos, to help any future aspiring, "brainless" mechanics like myself.
thanks

use the lifting tabs, that's exactly why and only why they are there. You should torque the transmission components properly. I would keep the whole engine if possible, I still have my spare. Turbo, head, injection pump, intake, alternator, PS pump, etc,all very useful for spares

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

I am jelous of how clean your engine is!

Anyhow Engine+Trans is the best way to go. I found out the hard way.

If you just disconnect the trans its much more simple instead of engine to trans.

Sounds like very good advice....Let me reinforce some of what engatword said----Don't roll the engine lift around until the engine is lowered to near the floor. It may not be immediately obvious, but when the engine is high that it makes a very heavy pendulum with a fairly long period of swing. If you move it with all that mass up high, it is possible to have it start to swing, almost imperceptibly..... If your next move happens to coincide with the swinging of the engine, the amount of swing is increased. It may start swinging just enough to pull the engine crane over and dump the whole load off to one side. If you're lucky, it will not hit anyone, and it will swing over and miss the fender, but the crash onto the floor is not pretty.

I thought the same thing when I looked at the pictures. Did you steam clean your engine?

This is good advice, if you can pressure wash or steam clean your engine, transmission and engine compartment before you start, you will make every part of the whole job a little easier. It adds up.

Also, organize the parts as you take them off. I can put every bolt back in the same hole it came out of. If you have any project management experience, employ some.

Someone else said take digital pictures as you go. I second that. Especially for routing wires and hoses, etc. Keep a couple to look at years later. Take pictures of the guys, the dog, the beers, the nosy neighbors, etc.

When you put it back together, don't tell yourself you will come back later. Do it right the first time.

Use zip-lok bags and a Sharpie to hold and identify parts, bolts etc..
Masking tape and Sharpie to identify wires and hoses and where they go.
No beer till the job is done (that's the hardest one).

That engine was cleaned with kerosene and elbow grease when I rebuilt it. I use old egg cartons to separate bolts and nuts taken off during the job. i write what it held on the top inside of the carton and number cartons as I go. That way everything is ordered. A little notebook helps too.

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

A set of metric taps will be needed to do this correctly....
Each and every threaded hole should have the proper tap run into it and then be sprayed with something to clean it out.... I used PBBlaster... BrakeKleen.. etc... always have goggles on when doing these things....
This is because torque readings are based on the friction a bolt encounters as it enters the hole... and is only mildly coresponding the pull down effect on the item you are bolting up.... so you must have a Non burr hole and it be clean and lightly lubed to get close to what the engineers wanted the gaskets to be compressed to, the trans held on by , etc...
Same with the bolts... wire brush, clean, lightly lube....
This is a messy boring time consuming job.... and worth every effort you can muster to know that your torque readings are accurate when you get finished.
On cars this old and reliable...I use antisieze compound as the lube... if there is a next time to taking the item off you will really be pleased you thought ahead on this issue....

He's right about cleaning out the threads, although I admit I don't use a tap very often. I usually use a cleaned screw (not sterilized, but with grit/rust removed at least) and then I wire brush or otherwise clean the screw/bolt. However, I need to make a cautionary note about anti-sieze. I use it a lot, but you should be careful with certain assemblies and anti-sieze. This is because anti-sieze can be such a good lubricant that it greatly affects your measured torque value. Thus, you can overtighten with anti-sieze if not careful

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'82 300SD - 361K mi - "Blue"

"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

listen, look, .........and duck.

I will third this advice and add that it is a good idea to check the depths of the holes to see if they are clear. This is critical when you have a head or deck resurfaced, if the headbolt bottoms when you torque it, you blow the headgasket.

I read years ago that 90% of mechanical work is cleaning and my experience would confirm that.