Engine Block Heater Stopped Working - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

braverichard · #1 11-19-2004, 06:01 PM

My engine block heater has worked for me about three times so far this year. Those were colds nights during which the car didn't need to be heated anyway, but I decided to do so just because I could. Last night I tried to do the same but in the morning the engine was still cold after three and half hours. Is there any means by which I can test to find out if it is just the cable/the connector that stopped working, or if it is the heating coil embedded in the engine block that's faulty? Additionally, considering that my car has been in this cold winter area all its life, is it normal for the coil to stop working by now? I'd like to replace whatever needs replacement before the really nasty weather arrives. Thanks all.

#2 11-19-2004, 06:27 PM

Put a ohm meter across the two spade connectors on the plug out front...
if you get infinite resistance than you probably have a blown element
also check to make sure it is still plugged in on the block.
Take the cord off and test it (ohm meter across one spade and one of female pin acceptors on the other end)

braverichard · #3 11-19-2004, 07:48 PM

Let me get this straight...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brandon314159

Put a ohm meter across the two spade connectors on the plug out front...
if you get infinite resistance than you probably have a blown element
also check to make sure it is still plugged in on the block.

So, this is to test the heater element and so I should perform the resistance test with the plug inside the block right?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brandon314159

Take the cord off and test it (ohm meter across one spade and one of female pin acceptors on the other end)

This is to test the block heater cord right? What results should indicate that it works?

Carrameow · #4 11-20-2004, 03:40 AM

receptacle on the block , you will lose your ground. I think this is why my old one stopped working and I replaced it. When I saw how corroded it was, I knew that was why. I will clean it tomorrow, test it and give you a definite answer. If I am right you will have to get some sandpaper up there to clean it, or some metal polish cleaner with steel wool. You will sometimes know when it comes on because you will hear a hissing sound of water being heated..

bullwinkle · #5 11-20-2004, 09:26 AM

After you clean up the male terminals with some emery cloth, get yourself a new cord from Fastlane or ***********************, put some white lithium on the cord receptacle female jack and plug it back in-sure sounds like a bad connection to me(wiggle your old one when powered up-careful of wetness or bare wiring-I bet you'll hear arcing noises). Good luck, Mark

lietuviai · #6 11-20-2004, 01:30 PM

I've been always wondering how long should you let the element heat the engine? I haven't found anything in the owners manual about it. I'd hate to leave it on for too long and burn something out.

Ken300D · #7 11-20-2004, 03:50 PM

In cold weather on a cold engine, I don't think you run too much risk of burning it out. Its roughly equivalent to a coffee pot element, and those can last many years boiling water - you won't be boiling any water.... Its a lower wattage than a coffee pot.

Just a guess. Have never used the block heater(s).

Ken300D

#8 11-20-2004, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by braverichard

Let me get this straight...

So, this is to test the heater element and so I should perform the resistance test with the plug inside the block right?

This is to test the block heater cord right? What results should indicate that it works?

I replyed to this but I guess it got deleted by someone...
*shug*...just trying to help....

Tomlinson · #9 11-20-2004, 08:29 PM

On my Dodge Cummins I find that the glow plugs shut off like they are in a hot engine after about 2 hours. I use a timer for this. I would say it depens on how long it takes for your glow plugs to behave like they are in a hot engine. On really cold days I will double cyle them. Lat year I had to replace the cable on the block heater. I would try replacing the cable berfore the heater.

Gary T.

2000 24V Cummins111,000k
1998 E300 130,000k Still looking for the block heater, car is new to me

braverichard · #10 11-21-2004, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brandon314159

I replyed to this but I guess it got deleted by someone...
*shug*...just trying to help....

Sorry, I don't know how that happened. Can you post your answers again?

braverichard · #11 11-22-2004, 09:25 AM

Hooked up the block heater to the power outlet with the other end which goes into the engine block disconnected. Used my voltmeter and checked voltage and it seemed like power was flowing through. So now, either my coil's terminals are corroded or the coil is dead. I'll report back as I make progress in troubleshooting this issue. Thanks all for your support!!

P.E.Haiges · #12 11-22-2004, 11:20 AM

brav,

Put the ohmeter leads accross the terminals on the heater element and test for continunity. I would think it would be 10 to 50 ohms.

If the heater terminal test shows the element to be good, then the cord or the terminals are bad or corroded. The reading at the plug male terminals should be same resistance as across the heater termials if the cord and its teminals at the heater are OK.

P E H

boneheaddoctor · #13 11-22-2004, 11:25 AM

This may sound dumb but I have an outlet in my garage that is on a seperate breaker than the Garage lights or anything else in the house. Have you made certain you was still getting power? I have had a beaker pop and leave that dead before. Maybe you have a simular situation.

braverichard · #14 11-22-2004, 12:39 PM

Thank you all for your suggestions. I will test for continuity and then clean out the terminals.

Quote:

Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor

This may sound dumb but I have an outlet in my garage that is on a seperate breaker than the Garage lights or anything else in the house. Have you made certain you was still getting power? I have had a beaker pop and leave that dead before. Maybe you have a simular situation.

Yes the outlets I have tested it on have power. Not only have I plugged in other devices into them to test them, but the voltage reading I got when I checked the voltage from the outlet to the other end of the cord indicates that all is well with regards to power supply.

boneheaddoctor · #15 11-22-2004, 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by braverichard

Thank you all for your suggestions. I will test for continuity and then clean out the terminals.

Yes the outlets I have tested it on have power. Not only have I plugged in other devices into them to test them, but the voltage reading I got when I checked the voltage from the outlet to the other end of the cord indicates that all is well with regards to power supply.

OK, would hate tor find out after hammering all the other possibles it was something that simple.