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  #1  
Old 01-22-2005, 06:08 PM
JimmyL's Avatar
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W123 Axle shaft problems!

All I wanted to do was replace my rear brake rotors and pads. I had caliper off, and there was play in the piece that the rotor covers and the wheel bolts to [hub?](terminology?). I could rock it not only back and forth a little, but also up and down. The first week I had the car (May '04) I had this axle shaft replaced (didn't know how to at the time). The guy said I needed a new wheel bearing also, and he replaced both items. I can't fathom that there should be any play/wobble in that piece. Right?? I tried to tighten the bolt that goes into the axle shaft, and it would tighten, but it seemed to also be collapsing the dome shaped washer. THEN IT SNAPPED OFF IN THE AXLE SHAFT!
So, how does that hub come off, and does it sound like maybe this mechanic (who is out of business now) maybe installed the wrong wheel bearing kit?
I am thoroughly defeated by this car, and would appreciate any advice.
Jimmy

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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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  #2  
Old 01-22-2005, 06:43 PM
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I'm not sure if the shafts are the same on the wagaons as they are on the sedans but that bolt that holds the shaft does not require very much torque. The bolt is a long one. If you're lucky the bolt may have only snapped off with enough to grab hold of with some pliers and screwed back out. If not, you'll need to drill it and back it out with broken bolt remover but you'll need to pull the shaft out to do it. It's not that hard if you'll end up needing to do that.
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  #3  
Old 01-22-2005, 07:43 PM
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F

Sigh....
Well, I got the axle shaft loose from the hub end without having to break open the diff. Drilled a hole in the bolt reminant, which of course was recessed, and got my handy dandy screw extractor set. Got a great bite with the screw extractor, and SNAP! My screw extractor broke off inside my broken off screw. I could not be more defeated!!! Now I WILL have to break open the diff, remove the axle shaft, and take it to someone to get the screw piece and extractor reminant out. Well, at least the car hasn't fallen on me! Jimmy

cc: Greg
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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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  #4  
Old 01-22-2005, 07:51 PM
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Location: central Texas
Posts: 17,290
I have never had a screw extractor work properly... I have had both the screw and flat sided types fail me...
I finally switched to using a left hand drill bit, a left hand tap, and a grade 8 left hand thread bolt for this kind of thing...
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  #5  
Old 01-22-2005, 08:02 PM
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Stella!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang
I have never had a screw extractor work properly... I have had both the screw and flat sided types fail me...
I finally switched to using a left hand drill bit, a left hand tap, and a grade 8 left hand thread bolt for this kind of thing...
Greg,
Where can you get a left hand bolt?
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  #6  
Old 01-22-2005, 08:06 PM
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Austin Bolt, Capitol Bolt, perhaps also Bass Tools out of Houston, Dixie tools etc...
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  #7  
Old 01-22-2005, 08:26 PM
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Stella!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyL
All I wanted to do was replace my rear brake rotors and pads. I had caliper off, and there was play in the piece that the rotor covers and the wheel bolts to [hub?](terminology?). I could rock it not only back and forth a little, but also up and down.
You are gonna hate this but, it sounds to me like all you needed to do was take the rotor off and tighten the bolts holding the backing plate to the trailing arm...
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Old 01-22-2005, 08:29 PM
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I am going to suggest that your bolt in the axle was too long and bottomed out. Bolts that are threaded into blind holes are normally easy to back out, providing rust has not complicated the matter.

Striking the bolt dead center and using a left hand drill bit will often take them out without the use of an easy out.

Sometimes I have been able to grind a slot in the end of the bolt and back it out with a screwdriver. Space usually prevents this method.

I've broken a few taps and before I developed a "feel", I had to use a few tap extractors. Porsches used to break off their cylinder head studs right even at the crankcse. EDMs (electrical discharge machining) are nice to have around, eh?
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  #9  
Old 01-22-2005, 08:53 PM
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From a previous post

"Also useful is that old Sears "weed burner" electric fence charger that I keep hooked up in my trunk. Now and then, in the middle of the night, I have heard the voice of regret when some dog learns not to piss on my wheels."

And I like most dogs. I'm just hoping that an IRS agent pees on it.
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  #10  
Old 01-22-2005, 10:40 PM
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This is a hijacking!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tirebiter
"Also useful is that old Sears "weed burner" electric fence charger that I keep hooked up in my trunk. Now and then, in the middle of the night, I have heard the voice of regret when some dog learns not to piss on my wheels."

And I like most dogs. I'm just hoping that an IRS agent pees on it.
This sounds like something I need! What is a Sears "weed burner" electric fence charger? How do I get one of my very own? How is it installed? I gotta know!!
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  #11  
Old 01-24-2005, 01:32 AM
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All I wanted to do was rear brakes so I could drive down to leathermang's and learn how to check chain stretch.
Well, I got the axle shaft off today. Will try and find someplace that can remove bolt reminant. None of my Sunday school class buddies wanted anything to do with it.
The reason I broke the bolt is I was trying (wrongly) to tighten the hub/axle situation since there was in/out and Up/down wobble. Well, the wobble seems to be because the back piece that secures hub isn't tightened enough. This is the one a mechanic replaced in May. My new question is: What do you use to tighten this piece? (see pic with arrows pointing to piece with 4 indentions). It wasn't fully tightened, and appearantly the mechanic punched in the outer lip of assy into those recessed indentions so it wouldn't back off: ie: rotate. What do I use to tighten that piece, and take the slop out of my hub?
I tried needle nose and ling nose vice-grips. No way with those.
Thanks,
Jimmy
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W123 Axle shaft problems!-hub-bearing.jpg  
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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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  #12  
Old 01-24-2005, 09:17 AM
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Stella!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyL
None of my Sunday school class buddies wanted anything to do with it.
Jeeze, ... I guess "a friend in need is, um, a friend to steer clear of!"

If they're no help, maybe you should go here and download the Acrobat file: 35-360.pdf (careful, it's 1.5Mb!!!).

That file is the FSM procedure for preloading the hub bearings when they're installed. I've only glanced through it but the 'looseness' you describe sounds like it might be caused by improperly installed hub bearings.

Good luck.
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  #13  
Old 01-26-2005, 01:28 AM
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No place I took the axle shaft to wanted anything to do with trying to get the bolt piece out. I have a work buddy who took it home and is gonna try and get the bolt out. If he cannot I will probably try and see if anyone in the DFW area has a decent used one. This is the one I had rebuilt in May for over twice what I see price-wise in recent posts for new ones.
I'm gonna need a new RR caliper and I will rebuild the LR. I've got new rotors and pads just waiting.
There goes my engine $....
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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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  #14  
Old 01-26-2005, 03:04 PM
JimmyL's Avatar
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Sunnyvale, Texas (DFW)
Posts: 9,675
My buddy from work brought me my axle shaft this morning! He drilled out and removed my screw extractor and bolt fragment, and re-tapped to a standard sized bolt. Not bad for overnight service, especially when nobody else would touch it. He left my dome washer on his workbench, though, so I can't reassemble tonight. Anybody know aproximate torq value for this bolt?
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Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John
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  #15  
Old 01-26-2005, 03:39 PM
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For 8mm bolt.. 30Nm.. for 12mm bolt 95Nm

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