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#1
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1993 140 w/603.... using oil
Okay, I will now admit my regret at getting rid of the venerable 1984 Turbo 300D.
I succumbed to the good looks of the newer 1993 300SD. I heard the bent rod comments & the electrical gremlins that plague these models. But this car drove sooo nice, had so much power, started first time every time the 3-5 times I dropped in on the used car lot and started it from the cold. All the electrical stuff works save for the trunk close assist. After I bought it in August, it just ran a little rougher than I knew it should. So I had the head pulled, and found that the head was not torqued to specs on the #1 cylinder....... so it was leaking oil around the gasket. I saw the gasket so I know the shop told me the truth. So while it was off, had it slightly machined, new valve seals installed and new hydraulic lifters too. I had it compression/leak tested. It spec'd out after the head was done. While the head was off, the pistons all spec'd out at the top of the block so they said it is not a "rod bender"......at least not at that point. I bought it with about 93k miles on it, now has about 103k. I drive at a minimum 1,000 miles per week. This rascal uses about 1-2 quarts per week at that mileage.... still. And when I floor it to accelerate/pass, it emits a huge plume of dark gray smoke...... Why does it use so much oil? Is there anything wrong (other than the expense) of just keeping to pour the oil to it? Looking for some direction here, this just seems bizarre... are the rings bad? Valve seal job bad? Turbo pulling oil? Crank ventilation out of whack? Is the IP overfueling it and washing the cylinders? I am stumped. Even still, it gets about 23 mpg no matter how hard I run it. Not bad for a big sedan...... and not too different from the old 300D... Thanks in advance for the assistance, JMH PS:The shop where I take it has done work on all of my European vehicles for almost 20 years; have never done anything to make me not trust them. |
#2
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You seem to quite well versed in those areas so I will tell you in detail about my 350's symptoms, and what led it to where it is right now: Still unknown problem, but lack of compression.
I first posted in August of 2003. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=73746&highlight=stage+engine It appeared that the oil consumption and the rough running had been reduced substantially. It wasn't perfect, but I remained optimistic. That winter, the 350SD started in -10 degree temperature with a 30 below windchill factor. No block heater, and one 30 second cycle of the plugs. Later on I posted about my new issues with consumption had then become visible. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=111514&highlight=350SD+oil+consumption http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=111512&highlight=350SD+oil+consumption I am down to this: Either a cracked piston ring or bent rod ovaling out cylinder. I know when I put a commercial product called "SMOKE-B-GONE" compression restorer, the car was soon back to it's original shape: No smoke, less oil consumption, and a smooth idle.
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1987 300SDL (324000) 1986 Porsche 951 (944 Turbo) (166000) 1978 Porsche 924 (99000) 1996 Nissan Pathfinder R50 (201000) |
#3
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603 oil burner
I listened to the soundbytes you put on here. Mine has a clack at idle but as soon as you advance the throttle the slightest bit, it goes away. Sometimes as idle it doesn't clack... almost depends on what the fuel quality is. If I run injector cleaner or some marvel mystery oil through it, it pipes right down. I changed the oil yesterday and to my glee, there was oil in the underneath panel. I never thought I would be glad to see a leak but I was. It was nowhere near as much as has been burned but it definitely had drips on the intake side, around the IP...... which I also had sent in when I did the head and had it redone too..... I think I will check the turbo cross over myself and if it is not full of oil and the turbo blowing oil, then back to the shop it goes to get checked out again.......they'll hate to see me coming but that's tough. I want it right and I think it can be made right.....
When I changed the oil yesterday, I put in some of that syrup stuff that is to stop smoke/oil burn/increase compression. I could smell it burning as I let the car sit at idle. Finally that pungent odor went away somewhat so I'm hoping to see how this works out if it will stop the burn for awhile. Frustrating but otherwise, I love the car. But if it doesn't get fixed, I'm going to find a little old lady that wants to sell her immaculate black 85 300SD with 50,000 miles on it and perfect black leather interior!! JMH |
#4
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What can cause the oil burning in the 603 is when the rods bend , once a rod bends it puts pressure on one side of the cylinder wall causing the cylinder to become out of round and then the oil seeps by the rings.What I'm afraid you need is a complete rebuild, no additives will cure this. If you really love the car and want to spend around $6000. plus labor it will run better than new.
Good luck |
#5
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603 oil burner
RDanz,
With all due respect, I don't see how the piston could travel all the way to the top of the block (i.e. is within spec) and yet be out of round due to bent rod to cause oil to get by...... maybe you are right... I thought there might be some unconventional wisdom here that would show me where we are missing the mark/have not yet considered so I can get this problem resolved. Your thoughts on the piston at the top vs. bent rod possibility? I do appreciate your thoughts and feedback. Really curious to get your thoughts on the piston at the top vs. bentrod theories..... Many thanks, JMH |
#6
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I would pull the cross over and see if the turbo is leaking. Also try to seal up any leaks you can find. 1 quart every 500 is getting to be alot, I would suspect the bottom end maybe going south. Run it until it blows you need a new short block anyway.
__________________
1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#7
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Quote:
When the head was off the vehicle, was there any replacement of valve guides or valve seals? Were these items in acceptable condition? Is there any possibility of the turbo consuming an excessive amount of oil? Maybe you can pull the intake and see if it is flooded with oil in there. What about blowby? Maybe you can disconnect the hose from the valve cover to the intake and run it into a bucket, underneath the hood, for awhile and see how much oil is getting sent to the intake. You would need to be able to drive the vehicle in this conditon to get any useful information. The bucket would need to be secured in some fashion down near the bottom of the block. If none of these items appear to be the culprit, then it is possible that the oil is getting past the rings and being burnt in the combustion chambers, however, I would think that this scenario is the least likely of them all. |
#8
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603 oil burner
Thanks Brian.....I would suspect it's a topside issue too. Hatterasguy, I am no expert but I distinctly smell burned oil in the exhaust..... so bottomend deterioration without a bent rod would not seem to me as a likely culprit of burning oil. I will check that crossover and the oil contained therein. I have pulled the tube off the valve cover and although there is some oil in there, it's not alot.
Boy, that Turbo 300D was sure a good car...... no frills, and the AC sure sucked for Florida summers but it was the best car I've ever had, bar none. JMH |
#9
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I forgot to say, the restoration of my engine's natural performance was short-lived. One day, after getting off Rt. 95 Exit 60 Massachusetts, the car decided to let loose with a jaw-dropping amount of oil smoke.
Ever since that time, it has been parked in the garage. It is not legally road-worthy in it's current state.
__________________
1987 300SDL (324000) 1986 Porsche 951 (944 Turbo) (166000) 1978 Porsche 924 (99000) 1996 Nissan Pathfinder R50 (201000) |
#10
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2 quarts a week would be a massive oil leak, their should be oil everywhere!
Their have been a few stories on this forum of turbo seals going bad. Usually they run like crap and blow tons of oil smoke out the exhuast. A little oil inside the crossover is normal, but their should be a lot for that kind of leak.
__________________
1999 SL500 1969 280SE 2023 Ram 1500 2007 Tiara 3200 |
#11
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I know from personel experience about bent rods and out of round cylinders in the 603. My car had the same symptoms as yours and the dealer pulled the head and measured and pistons 1 and 6 were not coming up to there full height hence bent rods My engine was replaced with a rebuilt long block and the car runs fine ever since and doesn't burn a drop of oil between changes. Lucky for me my car was Starmarked at the time and it didn't cost me a penny.
PS As told to me by the dealer lower ends of the 603 going bad is very, very rare. Did you mechanic pull the head and measure? Make sure your mechanic is throughly familar with the 603 if not find someone that is. Good Luck |
#12
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For those too lazy to go to the links.
http://www.ejzcars.com/350sound.wav http://www.ejzcars.com/350soundnorm.wav First engine is a 3.0 liter with a few injectors not spraying properly. Second is my 350. About a couple of months ago. All that is apparent is bad nailing.
__________________
1987 300SDL (324000) 1986 Porsche 951 (944 Turbo) (166000) 1978 Porsche 924 (99000) 1996 Nissan Pathfinder R50 (201000) |
#13
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603 is using oil.... cont'd.
Okay, yesterday I pulled the crossover pipe. Holy cow, it was like the La Brea tar pits in there. I couldn't believe it. Black, soupy, wet oil deposits all the way through and into the intake manifold. That must be my problem. The turbo. So I pulled the rubber intake hose off and in the turbo air intake side, there was about what would amount to 1/4 teaspoon of oil sitting in the aluminum allow intake sleave.
I would have not been surprised with a little bit of oil. But this was thick caked. I think the turbo is sucking massive amounts of oil or the valve cover vent tube that goes to the rubber air intake duct is pulling oil.... Which I don't think it is. There was some oil in the rubber duct but not a massive amount. I would expect some there too. Anyone have any ideas? Has anyone rebuilt a turbo on a 603.971? Is it difficult? Can you get parts? If so, where from? Any and all replies greatly appreciated. This is new territory for me! JMH |
#14
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oil in the intake
I believe you have found the problem.
My 91 350 blows oil through the intake. Im sure the turbo Seal is bad. That would account for the oil loss. I use about a quart every 3000 mi. I also have oil weeping past the intake gasket oiling the drivers side of the engine. Not much but enough to know there is a problem. Break out the old shop vac. I rebuilt the turbo on my 1980 Mustang years ago. Im sure its not to difficult. -Anthony |
#15
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Quote:
My advice is to take it one step at a time. No sense rebuilding the turbo until you confirm that the turbo is the culprit. Refer back to post #7. See if you can rig up a small bucket and route the hose from the valve cover into the bucket. Drive the vehicle for 1000 miles this way. If the bucket does not accumulate much oil, then you have your culprit in the turbo seals. However, if there is 1-2 quarts of oil in the bucket, you have your culprit in too much blowby oil without a proper seperator. You can also see how the smoke condition does. If it clears up completely, the turbo seals are not the culprit. |
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