I fixed the problem. Fuse #5 was blown. I misread the fuse chart and thought fuse #6 was #5. Even by looking at the fuse it looked good. The way I knew it was bad was that I took a test light to all the connections and that one only lit the light on one side, indicating the something wasn't connected. Now I need to go to the junkyard and pull an OVP since I demolished mine trying to get it apart.

Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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Ok, I give, What's an OVP?

I've tried to work it out in my mind, but don't know if I'll ever get it right.

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1998 W202 C230 - The money pit of late.
1984 W126 300SD (356,800 miles) Gone to the wrenchapart
1984 W123 300D Gone to the wrenchapart
1972 W108 280SE 3.5 (sold but not forgotten)
1986 Buick Grand National 3.8l Turbo (86k miles)
1966 Glassic Model 'A' Replica http://www.glassicannex.org

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Think of it as a surge protector. It is intended to protect sensitive electronics from high voltage, which will burn them out.

If the DC voltage goes above a set level, called Over Voltage, the Over Voltage Protection (OVP) relay puts a short on the electronic bus, which blows the OVP fuse. Then, NO voltage is applied. The electronics can't burn out if there is no voltage...

Crude, crowbar technology, but simple, reliable and effective in protection.

Without voltage applied from the OVP circuit to your electronics, weird things happen. Replace the OVP fuse, and the OVP relay can again apply voltage to your electronics.

Best Regards,
Jim