in your case with that screw turned all the way down....the block side vertical screw your engine should have been racing, not idling low...I would suspect issues with the IP.....

When I adjusted my full load internally I had to back out the idle adjustment about 6 turns to get it idling at 700 rpm...

As far as the rack damper bolt...any one that is turned all the way in is fatigued and needs replaced...

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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
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Section 609 MVAC Certified
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche

I believe my dad said that he had the mechanic turn back the idle to save fuel or something like that. The engine is idling very rough. I was coming home i would put on the brakes and it would feel like ur in a paint stirer...well
not really but u get the idea.. It wasnt THAT bad but u could notice it more than usual. I have 120,000miles on this IP...what could be wrong with it that young?

i do have the trans shifting as LATE as possible...i am exerienceing a terrible 2-3 flare (1000rpm flare) i have adjusted the trans this way so i could run it without flaring it...i have the replacement part on the way from FastLane... this might have something to do with it.