Not all hatch struts are secured with a triple square drive hardware. Some have allen heads- and allen heads do fit in the triple square. Buy some metric and standard allen sockts. Old blue lips (a torch) may sometimes useful as a bolt persuader.

Apparently the bolt was changed from an 8mm hex (allen) sometime during production so it's worth a look at yours before any special tool purchase.

The strut isn't all that hard to replace if you line the two mounting holes, mount the forward bolt first, and maybe have help to raise the hatch as much as possible in order to get the rear mount flange under the hinge arm.

Sometimes one strut will give a nice gentle action to the hatch and it will stay wherever you like. When both are new watch out for an uppercut, especially if you have a glass jaw.

There are at least five other threads on this topic that come up in a simple search.....

So the bolt you're speaking of is located at the forward connection to the car?

Or on the rear connection to the hatch?

I can't see the forward connection as the strut is in the way.

The rear strut connection to the hatch seems to have a pin with a stop slide to hold it in place.

__________________
JWJ
1983 MB 300D - > 430,000 miles - Deep Blue - Bilstein Comforts - 0-60 in 24 seconds - 27MPG
1985 MB 300TD (wagon) - > 275,000 miles - Manila Beige - Thule rack - 0-60 in 18 seconds - 22 - 25MPG
Biodiesel, Mobil Delvac 1, and Viton fuel lines!

You will see the bolt when you pull the rearmost headliner trim (the piece with the speaker holes in it). Pop out the cargo light and disconnect; look for some tiny screws holding the trim in. Remove, and ease out the piece from the window rubber.

All will become clear.

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Peter
1985 300TD 4-speed 212K
1992 400E 343K
2001 E320 72K

My 1985 wagon has the M8 triple square head on the fasteners. If you use an allen wrench you will strip it out. Ask me how I know this.

1. Lift the hatch and support.
2. Remove the clips and pins that hold the strut st the hatch.
3. Remove the rear panel at the headliner.
4. Locate the bolt that holds the strut in and see if it is hex or triple square.
5. Use the appropriate tool to remove the bolt.
6. Assemble with new strut in reverse order.

I bought mine off of a place in Miami and they sent the wrong ones the first time, but got it right the second time.

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Doug

1987 300TD x 3
2005 E320CDI

LOTS of folks strip out that bolt head. LOTS more strip the threads as well putting it back in.

I would get a pair of vise grips and break the bolts loose first before you put allen or triple square or whatever. Those bolts are notoriously tight, and that is best case scenario: it could be that a PO got there first and munged up the bolts ahead of you (I am on my third wagon, and this one is due for new struts too). Once it is loose, it won't strip unless you are using a phillips head.

Take some time feeding that bolt back in so you catch the threads right.

__________________
Peter
1985 300TD 4-speed 212K
1992 400E 343K
2001 E320 72K

Yes, it has become clear...

Thanks!

__________________
JWJ
1983 MB 300D - > 430,000 miles - Deep Blue - Bilstein Comforts - 0-60 in 24 seconds - 27MPG
1985 MB 300TD (wagon) - > 275,000 miles - Manila Beige - Thule rack - 0-60 in 18 seconds - 22 - 25MPG
Biodiesel, Mobil Delvac 1, and Viton fuel lines!