yes, i know it isn't nessicary to remove the subframe, i thought it would be easier, and why not r&r everything while I'm at it. thanks for the link, I've already got that one bookmarked.

so far I have to order:

4 trailing arm bushings
subframe mount kit
diff. mount
some hyd oil
Stabilizer/Sway Bar Link; Rear Sway Bar to Trailing Arm

__________________
1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

Consider sway bar MOUNT bushings. Get them at the dealer. You will have to use a later year bushing. Mercedes part number 201 326 10 81


New rear brake line hoses. Your going to disconnect them while your doing this. or brake work if necessary, its out.

Fuel tank rubber hoses, your there already.

Trailing arm bushings do not have to be eccentric

Consider painting the trailing arms while they are out, POR-15 would be best. Also inspect carefully the trailing arms for structural integrity, IE internal rust. they rust from within.

Check your drive shaft flex discs while there. Without removing the subframe, I had to disconnect the rear flex disc to get access to one of the trailing arm bolts. Could not remove the bolt due to the flex disc being in the way.

Fuel line rubber mounts.

Filter for the self leveling reservoir, consider flushing the fluid at this time.

Axel rubber boots, If OK I recommend treating them with 303 Aerospace Conditioner, available at RV stores.

If the rubber shield around the leveling strut is old a cracked. I repaired my quite successfully with "plastic dip" spray, available at Home Depot or Lowes.
20-30 coats, it sprays quite a thin layer.

Access to the differential mount to differential bolt. Required some creative tool combinations. The fuel tank is quite close and so not much room is available for a torque wrench. I had to estimate the torquing of that bolt.

On removing the entire rear sub assembly. It is quite large and heavy. Remember you have to be able to position it to reconnect it to the car. Without the cradle, as shown in the manual, and a lift, this might be difficult. I found manipulating the trailing arm, doable but sort of at the limit of a one man job, weight and bulk wise. This is sort of like removing the front coils springs without the Sir tool or Klann compressor. Yes you can do it, BUT you can't get it back together without the compressor.

If you remove each trailing arm separately I disconnected the parking brake cable at the Y fitting in the middle of the car. And pulled the cable thru its mounts.

Dave

__________________
1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car

okay- I was just under there looking around- the bake lines look good- no cracks, and easy to switch out later.

the diff mount on this car has 4 bolts that attach to car body, and the diff has a nub that sticks out into this mount.access looks easy, even w/ a impact wrench.

hyd fluid- if i disconnect the shocks, how do you bleed? is one liter enough to flush? where is the filter? is there a thread on this- I will look.

i am thinking of hetting the car up on stands, then i will have 2 floor jacks. can get an extra set of hands, too.

being under there and looking, i may not drop the whole works, but am wondering about the bearings, etc. i dont know how much is gonna come w/ the assys from a scrap yard, but am sure that i will have to change out a lot. can you replace the subframe mounts w/out dropping the whole thing?

the cv boots look ok for there age, but when going into reverse i sometimes hear a gentle clunking sound. rear diff fluid is brand new mobil 1.thanks for the tip on the conditioner.

flex discs look ok. kinda spendy part to just replace- around $50 each.(spendy compared to a $9 u-joint, anyhow)

thanks for the tips,

mo

__________________
1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

If old consider replacing them. They can collapse internally. But again they are an easy replace.

This is a station wagon correct? the sedan is very easy, the wagon a little more difficult.

System is self bleeding. Get 2 liters. The filter is located in the return line at the top of the reservoir. Unscrew the return line and the filter is attached to the return line fitting.

Its still heavy.

Are you replacing the whole subassembly from another car? I would check the seals around the wheel bearings and rotate the shafts to check for bearing wear.

the subframe bushings can be replace without dropping the subframe. Unbolt the subframe, sway bar and spider cover to the subframe. You can now pry the subframe down from the bushing, jamb something between the subframe and the car frame and go at the job.

http://diymbrepair.com/easley/sframe.htm

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=74439&highlight=subframe+bushings+dave

The boots may be cracked and show age, as long as they are not torn or ripped they are OK. try the 303

Look at the flex discs for separation and or a wavy pattern between the bolts holes, this shows age and wear. If OK then just keep an eye on them. also 303 them.

Dave

__________________
1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car

got parts today, finally, after the long weekend.
so the used trailing arms that i got online look real good, as far as rust goes. some minor scrapes, etc.i plan on cleaning them up and painting them.

the down side is that they decided to try and pull the hub assy off on one side, didn't get it off, but ruined the seals, at the least. also the brake disc covers are bent up pretty bad.

so now i need to pull apart at least one side(may as well do both) and repack the bearings and replace the seals- any advice on doing this? I used to work on big trucks so wheel bearings are not new to me, but how do you release the hub assy?

it seems that a threaded ring fits in the back side, w/ 4 slots in it. they tried the old BFH and screwdriver thing, to no avail. I can't really afford an expensive special tool to do this, so need to Mcguiver something. or take to an Indy, and have it done there. unfortunatly, i need the brake sheilds off the car first. I drive the car daily.

the good news is that i pulled one side bushings out already. i used 1/2 allthread,hand full of assorted washers and 1/2" nuts, and a 1 1/4" by 3/4" PVC tee.(i used a tee because it is about 4" long, whereas couplers are fairly short.) the bushing just fit inside the pipe, worked really well. all of 5 minutes to do both.(on a bench)all the materials were under $10 @ menards.

thanks to all for the advice.

__________________
1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

one other thing- the cv joints on one side seem to be making a bit of clackling- so i found some rebuilt lifetime ones from checker, cheap.
but when i looked at fastlane they have 2 diiferent ones available. anyone know anything about this?

__________________
1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

bump

__________________
1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

They're either annular or homokinetic joints and are interchangable. Search the forum on those two terms and read about the shims.

Here's some links to get you started....

CV1
CV2
CV3

__________________
Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

well thanks, R.L.,

havent seen those threads yet.
waiting on the rear bearing socket and parts.have you done those? I'm wondering if mobil 1 syn grease is a good grease for wheel bearings. it is what ive got in the gun, hence i cant read the tube.


of course, i just changed the diff to mobil one less than 3000 miles ago. probably could drain it and reuse it, though. I do have a partial qt left over, so cost to replace would not be bad.

got a pile of parts accumulating in the garage.
rear rotors,
parking shoes,
pads,
bearings,seals,
trailing arms(salvaged,primed w/ penetrol,5 coats of paint)
next is the axle shafts.

got a good couple days in the garage coming up.

__________________
1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

Don't know anything about rear wheel bearings. To me, they're one of those "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" sorta things.

I do believe that JimmyL has hands-on experience with rear bearings.

__________________
Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

well, just to wrap up this thread, I did replace the trailing arms, subframe bushings, rotors, parking brake shoes, and wheel bearings. (and a mess of other things)it took 3 days, and with 2 new tires cost pretty close to a grand. of course that includes buying a few needed tools.although i could not dedicate myself to full time work under the car, so prolly about 1 1/2 days.

the biggest issue was the subframe bushings had become one with the bolts. must have soaked up 4 + hours just on those. wiggling back and forth with a breaker bar, and finally getting them out. then cutting the bushing away with an angle grinder and dremel tool. anti seize compound on everything that went back in.

wheel bearings are quite a job, too, altuogh now that i know what to do , the next time shouldn't take more than a couple hours.

I want to thoank everyone for their helpful advice, with out it i probably would still be under that car.

Mo

__________________
1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.