Do always replace the slave cylinder when replacing your clutch? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Cephallus · #16 12-14-2006, 01:52 PM

If you're doing it yourself, don't worry about it until it breaks. You can always replace the slave later.

If you're paying someone to do your clutch, it will me MUCH less expensive to have him replace it now, with the tranny out, than it will to have him replace it later down the line...

winmutt · #17 12-14-2006, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scott98

What should I do about the flywheel? Do you think I can just install the new clutch and not worry about it?

Scott

Just make sure you mark its orientation and torque appropriately.

I vote not to replace unless you know its history. No reason to open a perfectly working hydraulic system. Replacing the slave is no more of a pain than doing brake pads........

mobetta · #18 12-14-2006, 10:42 PM

On many newer vehicles, the slave is inside the tranny.in this case, it is worth it to replace it.

if it is outside on a 240, then you can replace it anytime.

t walgamuth · #19 12-15-2006, 01:52 AM

i say it depends. if you know the history of the car it becomes an easire call.
if the car has 300k on it an it has never been changed, then yes i would change the slave master and new fluid. the bleeding and the clutch master are the only tough parts. the slave is easy except for the bleeding part.

and i would not put in a new clutch without turning the fw. i did this once on my bmw bavaria, and found the the new clutch assembly would not fully disengage because the face of the fw was too far forward from the mounting point of the pp and disc. this made the leverage change on the pp and consequent failure to disengage the clutch fully.

doing the job right means extra steps sometimes. there might be a way to measure and determine if it is necessary but i doubt that i would trust it.

a mistake means dropping the exhaust driveshaft and tranny.

again

good luck

tom w

Stevo · #20 12-15-2006, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

i say it depends. if you know the history of the car it becomes an easire call.
if the car has 300k on it an it has never been changed, then yes i would change the slave master and new fluid. the bleeding and the clutch master are the only tough parts. the slave is easy except for the bleeding part.

and i would not put in a new clutch without turning the fw. i did this once on my bmw bavaria, and found the the new clutch assembly would not fully disengage because the face of the fw was too far forward from the mounting point of the pp and disc. this made the leverage change on the pp and consequent failure to disengage the clutch fully.

doing the job right means extra steps sometimes. there might be a way to measure and determine if it is necessary but i doubt that i would trust it.

a mistake means dropping the exhaust driveshaft and tranny.

again

good luck

tom w

You might have had the "odd" one that was way out, because I have put at least four 240Ds togather without having the f/w done and no problems. I am wondering if most folks do the F/W.

t walgamuth · #21 12-15-2006, 10:20 PM

i think that benz flywheels are probably tougher than the old beemer was but do you want a clutch that will last another 275k or one that will only last 150k?

it is not much trouble. the machine work is what, $30?. i reckon the biggest cost is the (maybe) new flywheel bolts.

tom w

chasinthesun · #22 06-23-2010, 05:48 PM

190D 1984 2.2 5spd slave cylinder ,can someone tell me where this is located.

dantheman67 · #23 06-23-2010, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chasinthesun

190D 1984 2.2 5spd slave cylinder ,can someone tell me were this is located.

Please do not resurrect dead threads. Start a new thread after searching the archive to make sure someone hasn't already answered the question.

To answer your question, The slave is mounted on the side of the transmission bell housing.

fruitcakesa · #24 06-24-2010, 06:58 AM

My clutch master cylinder was leaking at 122k miles so I replaced it.
However, being a noob at the time I did not properly bleed the system and thus had "spotty" clutch action, so in my ignorance and thinking that if the master was leaking, the slave must not be far behind, I replaced it.
The original slave showed no signs of leaking and, again, I did not fully bleed the system so my clutch just got worse and worse.
Moral of the story is , don't break into the hydraulic system unless absolutely necessary.The parts replacement is easy, the bleed can be a PITA.

Stevo · #25 06-24-2010, 09:21 AM

Bleeding gets easier each time

chasinthesun · #26 06-25-2010, 11:02 AM

Got my parts ,found the sick slave cylinder and its leaking like a sieve,the master also had a slow leak .The biggest hurtle is still the bolts on the slave C ,the bottom nut was no problem ,the upper 13mm is a PITA.Ill need to make a 13 wrench with a 30degree angle just to get at it.Had to use a crows 12mm wrench to pull the hydro line but its free and out of the way.Sunday Ill be starting back at it, now Ill be under it with all my special tools for the fix ,Gees.The 190s are not nearly as easy as the 240s and I agree with T.W.THAT ITS BEST to replace both after alot of age .Battles are always won on the ground not throwing your wrenches in the air.

Beagle · #27 06-25-2010, 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LarryBible

If you don't EVER want to have to rebuild it or replace it, simply flush the system thoroughly and annually along with the brakes and you will NEVER have any hydraulic problems.

Not quite true

. With a new clutch plate the slave piston is stroking in the front half of the cylinder,the full length of the cylinder being immersed in fluid. By the time the plate is worn out the piston is stroking in the rear half of the cylinder leaving the front half dry and exposed to air for perhaps several years. I was unlucky on both occasions I fitted a new plate and had a leaking slave within a few weeks. The front of the cylinder turned out to be heavily rusted and pitted chewing up the seal when the piston returned once more to the front.

But I agree with you - no point in replacing it until it does start to leak!

dantheman67 · #28 06-25-2010, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Beagle

Not quite true

. With a new clutch plate the slave piston is stroking in the front half of the cylinder,the full length of the cylinder being immersed in fluid. By the time the plate is worn out the piston is stroking in the rear half of the cylinder leaving the front half dry and exposed to air for perhaps several years. I was unlucky on both occasions I fitted a new plate and had a leaking slave within a few weeks. The front of the cylinder turned out to be heavily rusted and pitted chewing up the seal when the piston returned once more to the front.

But I agree with you - no point in replacing it until it does start to leak!

I made that mistake. My master and slave were about the same age, and my master failed. I was feeling cheap and only replaced the master. 2 months down the road I was covered in brake fluid again changing the slave. Both have rubber, were equal age, and rubber deteriorates over time, right? So I figure in the future, I'd recommend replacing both at the same time.

Beagle · #29 06-26-2010, 02:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LarryBible

If the fluid has not been kept changed and the cylinder is leaking, hone the pits out of it and replace the rubber parts. As long as you hone the pits out, it will work every time.

Well I wouldn't go as far as calling that "insanity" suffice to call it futility. If you are looking for a short cut to a leaking cylinder just hone the bore out oversize

Stevo · #30 06-27-2010, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chasinthesun

Got my parts ,found the sick slave cylinder and its leaking like a sieve,the master also had a slow leak .The biggest hurtle is still the bolts on the slave C ,the bottom nut was no problem ,the upper 13mm is a PITA.Ill need to make a 13 wrench with a 30degree angle just to get at it.Had to use a crows 12mm wrench to pull the hydro line but its free and out of the way.Sunday Ill be starting back at it, now Ill be under it with all my special tools for the fix ,Gees.The 190s are not nearly as easy as the 240s and I agree with T.W.THAT ITS BEST to replace both after alot of age .Battles are always won on the ground not throwing your wrenches in the air.

On that upper slave bolt, try dropping the tranny cross member (four 13mm bolts on a 123) to get a little more room. Maybe use a wedge to hold it down.