Serious problem after replacing IP seals w210 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Bodgit2 · #1 04-19-2007, 10:18 PM

I finallly got around to replacing the fuel lines, O rings and IP seals associated with the OM606 motor on my 96 E300D 117k. The o rings were shot and the lines were brown. I did the IP delivery seals at the same time with the manifold off. I struggled a little with the IP in that the springs were tough to realign as I hand screwed in the valve bodies. They were torqued to 35nm. I reassembled the car tonite and cranked it a long time to refill the lines and it started up. The previous posts were awesome.
The problem is that it is now knocking a lot and sending out a black sooty unburned fuel mixture from the exhaust pipe. I warmed it up and drove a few miles and it knocked less but still the same unburned sooty mixture from the exhaust. I'm not sure what happened and would welcome advice! It seems like it is running on 4 or 5 cylinders.
TIA,
steve

Matt L · #2 04-19-2007, 10:38 PM

One cylinder out of six will kill your power, so I doubt there is a problem with two. I don't think you would get around the block on four.

If it's knocking at idle, the thing to do is loosen each line with the engine running. If you're careful about not letting foreign objects go into the engine, you can run it without the crossover pipe in place.

I would find the cylinder that isn't firing properly, and remove the delivery valve again. Get another new O-ring and seal and put it back together. Perhaps the spring is out of place now.

TMAllison · #3 04-19-2007, 10:49 PM

Were the delivery valve o-rings shot also? Were you surgically clean when you did the job? Did you rinse the spring and pressure valve bodies in clean fuel before it went back together?

If you had bad o-rings and rubber particles in the fuel left inside the valve chamber in the IP it could now be in an injector causing a bad spray pattern. If so, a DP could help.

If none of the above applies are you confident you got all the springs in right since they gave you trouble? Others have used a little bit of white grease to help hold them in place.

Cracking a metal fuel line while running and observing idle should help isolate which valve/inj is causing the problem.

Bodgit2 · #4 04-20-2007, 05:26 AM

I was surgically clean and wore the surgical gloves. The O rings were bad. I washed each valve body in Brakleen priot to reinstall and springs too. I must say it was tough to get a couple reinstalled and I took out the little metal cylinders and parts under the valve body to line them up and reinstalled them. I'll get new rings etc and take it apart again.
steve

nhdoc · #5 04-20-2007, 06:54 AM

When re-installing my delivery valves I put a very small amount of white lithium grease on the crush washers and end of the spring to hold them in place while I re-installed them. It's not something I read about specifically relating to this job but often find that when you need to provide just a little hold the grease works well and as soon as the fuel starts going through I am sure it disolves and got pushed through the injectors.

scott19_68 · #6 04-20-2007, 08:33 AM

Quote:

I must say it was tough to get a couple reinstalled and I took out the little metal cylinders and parts under the valve body to line them up and reinstalled them.

How 'deep' did you go into the delivery valves assembly to realign the valve springs and crush washers? There is a fuel metering device underneath the delivery valve (107) that turns via the control plunger (113) that must align exactly correct.

I'd take Matt's advice and figure out which cylinder is giving you problems and hope a DP will fix it if it is a contamination.

Bodgit2 · #7 04-20-2007, 10:25 AM

I changed the o ring and the copper washer but took out the whole assembly. The cylindrical part at the base was removed, cleaned and reassembled. What orientation does the cylinder go in? It has some holes in it I saw and I thought it turned freely. I'll try the white lithium grease on the parts next time to reassemble it. I removed #'s 98, 95, 101, 104 and 122 from the delivery valve on the above thumbnail diagram.
Thanks for your help
steve

96Diesel · #8 04-20-2007, 10:28 AM

Is (98) in the diagram, the O-Ring that needs replacement? From the diagram, the pump looks to be the same as the '96 E300. Do /should all the parts need to be removed (cleaned?) to replace the O-Ring?

Bodgit2 · #9 04-20-2007, 02:19 PM

Yes that's the o ring. I'll work on it this weekend. I must have put in the spring crooked or something. You remove the part 95 and replace the o ring and crush washer.

TMAllison · #10 04-20-2007, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 96Diesel

Is (98) in the diagram, the O-Ring that needs replacement? From the diagram, the pump looks to be the same as the '96 E300. Do /should all the parts need to be removed (cleaned?) to replace the O-Ring?

Only remove 95 splined valve holder, 98 o-ring, 101 spring and 104 crush washer.

Everything below that point should be left undistrubed.

scott19_68 · #11 04-20-2007, 03:28 PM

Based on the fact that you removed all the way down to #122, the odds are fairly high that you've misaligned something. The valve controls the quantity of the fuel by precise height and rotation of the pump plunger (which I believe is the component between #107 and #113). There is an annular grove in the pump plunger that should be pointed away from the fuel control hole in the side of the bore when the engine is off.

This design has been pretty standard design for a long time now so the 603 & 617 guys might be of some help on this one. They might steer clear of any topic with 'W210' in it so you might have to repost a pointer to this one.

Bodgit2 · #12 04-20-2007, 05:12 PM

Thanks for the advice. I'll pull it apart tonite and try to figure it out. Is the correct orientation listed in WIS?
Steve

Alastair · #13 04-20-2007, 07:04 PM

Part '107' in the diagram is in fact two parts, but its an assembly-The del.valve. the parts below this in most pumps will stay in position, although the outer part of the pumping-element, (That part not numbered just below 107 in diagram) could be made to come out, and must be placed back in exactly the right spot for it to correctly align with the body. for the work done there is no need to disturb the pumping-element and should be left well alone There is a small locating groove in it.-With ANY luck, you left these parts well alone, and only took as far as 107 out. As 107 comprises a central plunger and an outer part, Im assuming that you are referring to the outer part of 107 as 122.

122 will NOT come up through the top. You need to remove the cam in the bottom, as well as the roller-follower for that...

IF you DID remove the outer part of the element, and didnt re-fit it in such a position as to re-align the locating-slot on the element outer body ith the nipple in the case, you Could have damaged the pump caseing by forcing the element body down breaking the locating nipple....(You say, it was difficult replacing the del-valve spring etc on re-assembly......In my experience, no force is ever needed with these components and will screw in easily by hand to the last half-turn or so.....)

Assuming that you only took out 107's two components, there is a possibility you have inadvertently inverted the outer part of 107...There is a tiny taper-valve seat, just like an exhaust-valve seat on one side only...This should face upwards with the corrisponding taper and 'square-peg' section of the del.valve plunger facing downwards and into the outer del.valve part.

Bodgit2 · #14 04-20-2007, 09:24 PM

Thanks Alastair. You are right in that the plunger part below 107 popped up and I pushed it back down with my finger. It is possible I have one of the delivery valves inverted. Any suggestions on how to figure out which one?
Thanks
steve

TMAllison · #15 04-20-2007, 11:08 PM

You ought to be able to crack a metal line while at idle and find it by observing fluctuation in rpm. Four or five of six should make the idle rougher. The couple that dont are the problems.