Ball Joint Replacement - W123 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

tobybul · #1 04-22-2007, 07:14 AM

Has anyone ever replaced the lower ball joint without removing the bearing hub?

I have replaced ball joints before but I was also replacing the front bearings so I took everthing off. Can the AZ press tool push out the old BJ with spindle still on car?

I don't like the idea of taking the hub off...

kerry · #2 04-22-2007, 08:52 AM

I believe the answer is yes. But you don't want to press it out. You want to use the pry apart/strike on the side method. Do a search on this method, it is far easier. You 'dolly up" a sledge on one side when striking it on the other. A search on 'dolly up" will probably bring up a more extensive description.

Whiskeydan · #3 04-22-2007, 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tobybul

Has anyone ever replaced the lower ball joint without removing the bearing hub?

I have replaced ball joints before but I was also replacing the front bearings so I took everthing off. Can the AZ press tool push out the old BJ with spindle still on car?

I don't like the idea of taking the hub off...

You will have to remove the spindle to replace the lower ball joint. It's not that difficult.

tangofox007 · #4 04-22-2007, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerry edwards

But you don't want to press it out. You want to use the pry apart/strike on the side method.

Ball joint separation and ball joint removal are two different concepts.

Whiskeydan · #5 04-22-2007, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tangofox007

Ball joint separation and ball joint removal are two different concepts.

Separation=removing the threaded cone part with the nut removed.

Removal=beating it out of the removed spindle with a hammer.

The only time I've ever used a hammer on a MB.

vox_incognita · #6 04-22-2007, 02:23 PM

w123:
http://207.210.95.34/~boostd/FrontSuspension/balljoint/

w124: (Enjoy!)
http://www.klann-online.de/Filme/KL-0326-10.htm

tobybul · #7 04-22-2007, 09:06 PM

Yep, no way to really replace BJ without taking off hub and spindle. I did both this afternoon and ended up going all the way. But I couldn't press out or even pound out the old BJ so I dropped them off at NAPA for them to press it out tomorrow. These ones are in there good.

Replaced the front shocks, too while I was at it. I'm trying the Gabriels from AZ ($19.99 ea) lifetime warranty. I'll see how they do. Its either that or Bilsteins from adsit but can't wait to order. I figured I can swap these every year if I have to or return them if I don't like the ride. My 85D have the Bils comfort and I love the way they ride. Real cushy.

300SD81 · #8 04-22-2007, 09:11 PM

Spindle and hub removal is a 10 minute job if you have the right pullers and sockets. All can be rented from AutoZone. Ball joint is fairly easy to get out with a 10lb hammer. Its not is you don't have one tho. Trust me, I gave in and borrrowed one after 3 days trying to pound/press it out with pipe wrenches, regular hammers, and the autozone press... To press it in, get a breaker bar and cheater pipe, and another pipe to hold it in place (with the other end of the pipe under the tire of your car)

tobybul · #9 04-22-2007, 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 300SD81

Spindle and hub removal is a 10 minute job if you have the right pullers and sockets. All can be rented from AutoZone. Ball joint is fairly easy to get out with a 10lb hammer. Its not is you don't have one tho. Trust me, I gave in and borrrowed one after 3 days trying to pound/press it out with pipe wrenches, regular hammers, and the autozone press... To press it in, get a breaker bar and cheater pipe, and another pipe to hold it in place (with the other end of the pipe under the tire of your car)

Thanks, 300SD. I have done the job b4 but just wondered if it can be done without too much dismantling. I also didn't want to mess with the bearings and the grease plus finding the right torques for the spindle nut, etc, etc.

But it really has to be done this way looks like. I used my OTC BJ separator which is pretty slick. But as I said above, I gave up trying to press /pound out the old ones. NAPA is very accessible to me so the spindles are there now to be picked up tomorrow.

300SD81 · #10 04-22-2007, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tobybul

Thanks, 300SD. I have done the job b4 but just wondered if it can be done without too much dismantling. I also didn't want to mess with the bearings and the grease plus finding the right torques for the spindle nut, etc, etc.

But it really has to be done this way looks like. I used my OTC BJ separator which is pretty slick. But as I said above, I gave up trying to press /pound out the old ones. NAPA is very accessible to me so the spindles are there now to be picked up tomorrow.

That spindle nut is scary.. I didn't tighten mine right, and it CAME OFF on the way to AutoZone to return my rented tools.. Luckily, the wheel star cap thingy held everything in, the brake kept the wheel from falling off, and I stopped before there was any damage. I tightened the allen bolt on the nut as tight as I could without breaking my key, but I'm still paranoid of every little vibration now thinking that it might come off at 100mph on the highway..

TheDon · #11 04-22-2007, 10:09 PM

the spindle nut ... easy.. tighten it all the way and back it off until it spins easily but not to easily

Matt L · #12 04-22-2007, 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 300SD81

That spindle nut is scary.. I didn't tighten mine right, and it CAME OFF on the way to AutoZone to return my rented tools.. Luckily, the wheel star cap thingy held everything in, the brake kept the wheel from falling off, and I stopped before there was any damage. I tightened the allen bolt on the nut as tight as I could without breaking my key, but I'm still paranoid of every little vibration now thinking that it might come off at 100mph on the highway..

Too tight is often as bad as too loose. Do you know the torque specification for that little bolt? It's not very high.

300SD81 · #13 04-22-2007, 10:13 PM

The allen key I used was about 4 inches long, so I doubt I got it too tight. Its held up for 2 months of some extreme driving.. But I'll get a wrench of the same length and twist against my torque wrench to see how far I can get..

Edit: Best I can get with a slightly longer wrench is 25Nm, probably torqued it to 20, spec is 14, should I redo it? Still going to be by feel though, I don't have an allen torque wrench

tobybul · #14 04-22-2007, 11:09 PM

The other thing I found was the left uca bj boot had a tear so I'll order a boot from the dealer tomorrow. They seem to be the only place I know as a source just for a uca boot.

I probably won't bother with the AZ press tool next time. Its ok for pressing in but still a bit touch n go. It still requires a lot of effort if you are not set up with a large vise.

300SD81 · #15 04-22-2007, 11:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tobybul

The other thing I found was the left uca bj boot had a tear so I'll order a boot from the dealer tomorrow. They seem to be the only place I know as a source just for a uca boot.

I probably won't bother with the AZ press tool next time. Its ok for pressing in but still a bit touch n go. It still requires a lot of effort if you are not set up with a large vise.

You can kind of see what I did in the pic, The breaker bar is under the tire of the car on one end, the other end is between the spindle and the C frame, then I used the tire iron and pole to press it in. The car was enough to hold it down

I did have to jump on the pole and bent the tire iron pressing it in though.