If you check and reset the injection pump drip timing. Yet engine still runs badly you may wish to check the milli volt output of each glow plug looking for any major discrepency. Swap glow plugs and injectors into the strange reading cylinder if one is indicated. .
If problem remains and compression across the engine is simular. Someone has probably tweaked the element on the pump or that specific element is defective in some way. Perhaps even just wear from use. If nothing else the careful testing will indicate the pump at fault or clear it. Also the increased pop pressures might be at the edge of what the pump is willing to easily supply on perhaps one element.
There is a slight chance if the problem is broken down to one cylinder you might be able to correct it yourself. There would be nothing really lost as otherwise the pump is on the way out to a shop for a check. If it proves to be the fault by test.

Spray volume, sealing and spray pattern are the most important. Once again, just because they claim to do a large volume of business does not mean they do anything right. Do your homework and quiz them before you let them work on your injectors.

At the shop where I took mine, they would only test the old mechanical types. Like what many of us have.

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83 SD

84 CD

Forgive me for asking, but do you see any leaks when the car has been run for a while (10 mile drive or so). Reason I ask is that I just changed my injector nozzles and didn't clean the housing out as well as I could have and the injector body leaks where the two pieces screw together. Also I notice wet looking prechambers. I get a rough start everytime with this because the fuel system looses prime. So... if you have any leaks this may also be a problem.

__________________
-E300d '99 350k
-Suburban '93 220k
-TDI Jetta '03 350k
Sold
-F250 '96 7.3
-Dodge Ram 12V
-E320 '95 200k
-E320 Wagon 1994 155k
-300d Turbo '87 187k miles
-E320 1994 200k
-300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62)
-300d Turbo '84 180k
-300sd '80 300k
-7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles
-190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB)
Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's.

One other note on my last post... In the Haynes manual if you look in the symptoms area at the begining of the book it says that rough starting can be caused by leaking injectors.

I'd really clean out the mating area of the prechamber and injector and put a few drops of diesel on each before you torque them back in. There has to be NO leak in that fitting.

__________________
-E300d '99 350k
-Suburban '93 220k
-TDI Jetta '03 350k
Sold
-F250 '96 7.3
-Dodge Ram 12V
-E320 '95 200k
-E320 Wagon 1994 155k
-300d Turbo '87 187k miles
-E320 1994 200k
-300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62)
-300d Turbo '84 180k
-300sd '80 300k
-7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles
-190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB)
Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's.

Thanks for the tips 777, Ill look into it when I reassemble tonight. I had a bit of a leak going on but I think it was due to my return line end cap leaking.

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

The leak they are talking about is leaking past the needle seat into the combustion chamber ( effectively changes the timing ), not leaking out on top of your engine.