This is my shopping list for an A/C redo on my 1985 300D
http://www.***************/search/product.aspx?sid=b5n33z45rn5kwi454fnppp45&makeid=800016@Mercedes&modelid=1193790@300DT&year=1985&cid=24@AC%20%26%20Heat%20-%20Climate%20Control&gid=6628@AC%20Compressor

http://www.***************/search/product.aspx?sid=b5n33z45rn5kwi454fnppp45&makeid=800016@Mercedes&modelid=1193790@300DT&year=1985&cid=24@AC%20%26%20Heat%20-%20Climate%20Control&gid=6788@AC%20Expansion%20Valve

http://www.***************/search/product.aspx?sid=b5n33z45rn5kwi454fnppp45&makeid=800016@Mercedes&modelid=1193790@300DT&year=1985&cid=24@AC%20%26%20Heat%20-%20Climate%20Control&gid=6972@Receiver%20Drier/Accumulator

http://www.***************/search/product.aspx?sid=b5n33z45rn5kwi454fnppp45&makeid=800016@Mercedes&modelid=1193790@300DT&year=1985&cid=24@AC%20%26%20Heat%20-%20Climate%20Control&gid=6944@O-Ring/Gasket/Seal
Full O-ring set.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/13-X-21-PARALELL-FLOW-UNIVERSAL-A-C-CONDENSER_W0QQitemZ300117559005QQihZ020QQcategoryZ33547QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Along with R12. Can anyone think of anything else that I should change while in there?
I also need some advice on oil. I have read that if I use Syn. oil, I can change from R12 to R134 if needed.
Last is advice on flush. I know I need it, compressor sounds like it has marbles inside. Is an auto a/c manifold required for this or can I make do without the $50 cost to buy one?

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1985 300D burning WVO using 26 FPHE, half gallon heated fuel filter,glow plug heater,home made injection line heaters. Home made cold air induction. ALDA full out.
2003 F350 7.3(the last of the great motors)
1987 Paint Horse-non running too, just walks!

First, your shopping list link turned up an empty shopping cart! Second getting a universal parrallel flow cooler may not be necessary as most of these cars AC faults can be traced back to not vacuuming out the system properly. My car is using R134 and my vent temp at 104*F in phoenix is 49* to 50* F after the system has been on for a few minutes. Third, R12 and R134 are NOT compatible no matter what type of oil your using and R12 is no longer being made so you might as well go with what is or you will design your system around parts that will be no longer available! The Ac system is not these cars strong point so you will never get the performance out of them like I do on my 1991 Cadillac. Just check out all you "O" rings, seals and change your compressor and get a "GOOD" set of manifold gauges if your going to buy them. I got mine from Napa and mine are Stewart Warner and I'll pay a little more for these than some cheap Chinese crap. You will be better off with manifold gauges if your going to recharge with R134 as your sight glas will be just about useless. Good Luck and have patience and do it right!

O.K., I think I fixed the link(s).
Well, I think that the Condensor upgrade is needed, for me atleast. I put 40,000 miles a year on my work cars with a 32 mile trip each way and some days I have to work out of my car at the port. I want all I can get and I just thought that now would be the best time to upgrade what ever I can.
I may check with some of the Reefer Container Techs at work and see if they could flush and vacume and charge the system for me, I'll just change the parts out. That is a lot of money for some gauges that I may not use very much.
I also have a hydrolic hose company that I will have redo my lines. I have used them for many hoses in the past and alway great work for a fraction of the price of OEM.

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1985 300D burning WVO using 26 FPHE, half gallon heated fuel filter,glow plug heater,home made injection line heaters. Home made cold air induction. ALDA full out.
2003 F350 7.3(the last of the great motors)
1987 Paint Horse-non running too, just walks!

Flushing the system will do nothing to help a noisy compressor. Flushing the compressor is only likely to cause more problems. The solution should be obvious.

I think I need to list the part I will change, the links are not working.
1) Behr Compressor
2) Behr Drier
3) Egelhof AC Expansion Valve; R12 and R134A Compatible
4) Santech complete O-ring kit
5) parallel flow condenser. This product has a #8 male o-ring inlet and a #6 male o-ring outlet.

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1985 300D burning WVO using 26 FPHE, half gallon heated fuel filter,glow plug heater,home made injection line heaters. Home made cold air induction. ALDA full out.
2003 F350 7.3(the last of the great motors)
1987 Paint Horse-non running too, just walks!

Ah, I see. I didn't know that a compressor was part of your list; this explains the desire to flush the system.

If you're going to stick with R12, you should be able to wait on the condenser, assuming that you can get yours flushed sufficiently.

Well, hotwheelbill, I only spent about $120.00 including tax on my gauge set, but with your connections you might just be able to borrow a pair. Have you considered a refrigerant brand called envirosafe? It doesn't take as much, is much lighter and gets colder that R134 and even R12! Put Envirosafe into your web browser and go from there, it's worth checking out!

See if you can find some Nylog for the o-rings.

Danny

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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

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Our local tech kollege did have a stockpile of R12 and they sold it cheaper than anyone could by a large margin with the stipulation that when it was gone, it was gone. Few people know about it. Check around

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99 E300 Turbodiesel
91 Vette with 383 motor
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06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red
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11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow

Envirosafe is a hydrocarbon refrigerant. It's not legal to (directly) change an R12 system to any hydrocarbon refrigerant.