1982 300D Turbo sedan. Trying to do a valve adjustment. Have read all applicable posts without seeing solutions.

I am trying to move the engine using the Power steering pump nut and belts. I can't get to the crankshaft bolt because of the fan, etc. I also can't get up underneath. The cam moves some, but before I can get it to the closed position, the engine stops turning. I can't get it to move to the correct point.(http://dieselgiant.com/valveadjustment.htm) says, "Number 1 cyl camshaft lobe pointing straight up, 90 degrees relative to the adjusting pad. To your eye this will look like the lobe is in about the 1 o'clock position."

I have seen some posts that say that taking out the glow plugs will help... That will be my next step. Any other ideas? Thanks.

What does "90 degrees relative to the adjusting pad" mean? 180 degrees, maybe?

I rotate the engine by turning the crankshaft from below. There is enough room to get a socket on the crankshaft bolt if you use a short extension bar. You have to snake the tool in between the fan shroud and pulley. No need to remove it until the job is complete. Just don't forget!!!

Do you have the transmission in neutral?

__________________
Pure Vermont Maple Syrup
http://www.squaredealfarm.org

1982 300D Turbo
1983 300D Turbo

I had this problem when adjusting my valves too. I just tightened the PS belt a little, per Russell's suggestion (video).

__________________
1995 E300 200k
1981 300GD unknown km

Don't waste time by taking out glow plugs. The transmission has nothing to do with it either.
Is the belt slipping when you try to turn it from the nut? if it is, tighten the belt or bump the starter from the contact point block on the right fender well.

__________________


1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

The rocker pad tangent plane is 90 degrees to the symmetrical centerline of the cam lobe. See the image I have captioned "Cam Orientation" at:
http://web.infoave.net/~ontheriver/automobiles/300sdvalves.htm

I favor using the starter with a bump switch to rotate the engine.

-Scott

__________________
https://goo.gl/photos/J8ZUVvAYiYqLxbD18

1989 560SL 111Kmi
2007 E550 4Matic 157 Kmi
2000 F250SD 7.3l, 1996 Explorer Ltd 5.0l
1965 VW Beetle Deluxe 115 Kmi
=========================
Previous MB:
1983 240D Euro Manual 144 Kmi
1983 300SD 495 Kmi
1986 190D 2.5 100 Kmi
1986 300SDL 202 Kmi
1991 300D 2.5 Turbo 91 Kmi
1998 E320S4 (4-matic wagon) 140 Kmi

DON'T use the P/S nut to turn the engine! Besides, if you can turn it that way that means the belt is too tight.

Get a deep 27mm socket and a 1/2" ratchet and turn the engine right or get a starter switch to bump it over.

I've heard this is a bad elsewhere but other than the obvious reason (belt too tight) why?

The main reason is the belt, but it will be hell if you ever have to take off the power steering pulley (for a core exchange for example).

I use a 27 mm deep socket and a 1/2" ratchet handle on the crank bolt, and have never ever had clearance problems. The plastic fan blades do touch the handle, but cranking past the blades anyway doesn't seem to hurt anything. Try not to make it more difficult than it actually is.

__________________
'02 BMW 325i
'85 300D 450k
'93 190E 2.6 170k(killed by tree)
'08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S 6k
'06 Ducati S2R800 14k(sold)

I've always used the PS pump bolt. I push down the belt with my left hand to tighten it up and turn the bolt with my right. I don't understand how a person can turn the engine using the cranshaft bolt without a helper to observe the position of the camshaft, or do people use an elaborate system of mirrors?

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Use the crank bolt per the FSM.

__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

1/8-1/4 turn at a time and keep checking.

one more for the remote starter switch, per the FSM.

__________________
1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

I'll be the first to admit I'm not the expert mechanic that many of you are. But I had just installed a new (German) PS belt and both pulleys were in good shape, so I wasn't trying to compensate for a worn/glazed parts, etc. I made several incremental adjustments, tightening the belt just enough to not slip on the pulley, and no more. I recall checking the belt deflection and feeling satisfied that it was still within spec. Then I proceeded to carefully turn the engine in small increments via the PS pump. I don't see the harm in doing this.

Even if you were to go back and slacken the PS belt slightly once the valve adjusting was done, I'd still find it more convenient to do that than trying to rotate the engine at the crank throughout the whole process. Just my .02, "your mileage may vary".

__________________
1995 E300 200k
1981 300GD unknown km