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  #16  
Old 12-16-2007, 12:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe View Post
B.S.

Rust ALWAYS matters.......it's not some rusted-out Colorado-Special, it's a NON-RUSTED California-Texas daily driver.........duh!
While it may be easy to keep cars rust free in your sand flats down there, it is not exactly that easy to do so up here in the north. Its a continual battle to prevent rust. And buying a car with a little bit (of repairable) rust, is no big deal....as you're simply not going to find many rust free cars for a low amount of $$. You'd have to go south for one, which costs more, and then when you bring it here, you begin fighting rust. Thats how it goes.

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  #17  
Old 12-16-2007, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe View Post
B.S.

Rust ALWAYS matters.......it's not some rusted-out Colorado-Special, it's a NON-RUSTED California-Texas daily driver.........duh!
Not at that point, its a parts car so the useable parts matter more.

If you want to do a resto I agree starting with a rust free straight body is a must, but if you want a parts car/driver parts car it doesn't matter much. Well unless you need body parts.
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  #18  
Old 12-16-2007, 11:04 AM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe View Post
B.S.

Rust ALWAYS matters.......it's not some rusted-out Colorado-Special, it's a NON-RUSTED California-Texas daily driver.........duh!
What I meant was that it's obviously a parts car for $1000 (with coolant in the oil), so the body condition does not really matter. I agree, never buy a rusty car for anything but parts. Personally, I think buying an entire parts car is more trouble than it's worth.

Is there something about the name joe on this forum?
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  #19  
Old 12-16-2007, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pawoSD View Post
While it may be easy to keep cars rust free in your sand flats down there, it is not exactly that easy to do so up here in the north. Its a continual battle to prevent rust. And buying a car with a little bit (of repairable) rust, is no big deal....as you're simply not going to find many rust free cars for a low amount of $$. You'd have to go south for one, which costs more, and then when you bring it here, you begin fighting rust. Thats how it goes.
Actually, there are more used diesels for sale in the south, so they are not costing more. I don't think rust can be prevented on any brand of aging car up north. Any that is used as a daily year around driver, anyway.
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  #20  
Old 12-16-2007, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Craig View Post
Is there something about the name joe on this forum?
Huh?
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  #21  
Old 12-16-2007, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe View Post
Huh?
He was referring to the apparent prevalence of arguments in which Skid Row Joe or else 240Joe are involved.
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  #22  
Old 12-16-2007, 06:58 PM
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What is the engine like????

Quote:
Originally Posted by wgilmore View Post
Looked at an 87 300SDL for $1000 , 289,000 miles. Fair interior, rough exterior, no rust, looks to be all original except for minor repairs, California car. Thinking about it as a parts car for my current 300SDL and/or parting out. Owner commented that it was leaking water out of the water pump weep hole. Found no oil in coolant but the oil looked like an emulsion, very thick like syrup. Been sitting for six weeks with mostly water as coolant. Has number 14 head. Very tight ride. trans said to be rebuilt 14K miles ago - shifts well. Glow plug light did not work on startup, owner insisted I start it anyway and the car did start and run well.
Any constructive thoughts, abusive comments, ridicule etc....
Thanks.
What is the engine like? I need a 603 engine for a project.
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  #23  
Old 12-16-2007, 08:23 PM
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I have seen furniture with more brains than 240joe

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