E300D, IM coming off, what else to do "while I'm in there"? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

notfarnow · #1 01-22-2008, 02:39 PM

Hi folks,

Within the next few weeks I'm going to be removing the intake manifold on my 99 e300d. Among other things, I intend to clean the intake manifold of soot, and r&r the glow plugs (they all work, but I'd rather change them now than later)

What else should I do while I'm in there? Shoudl I replace all teh fuel lines, or just the O rings? Can I get a complete kit that includes all teh O rings or all the lines? Should I replace any other gaskets while I'm at it?

Is there a proven way to do an EGR delete or bypass without tripping a CEL?

Thanks!

oteixeira · #2 01-22-2008, 02:58 PM

Replace all the lines, 80 dollars in parts, its a no brainer. I did them all in under an hour, except the one you cant reach under the manifold. I would do these every time I pull the manifold from now on.

Orlando

TMAllison · #3 01-22-2008, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by notfarnow

Hi folks,

Within the next few weeks I'm going to be removing the intake manifold on my 99 e300d. Among other things, I intend to clean the intake manifold of soot, and r&r the glow plugs (they all work, but I'd rather change them now than later)

What else should I do while I'm in there? Shoudl I replace all teh fuel lines, or just the O rings? Can I get a complete kit that includes all teh O rings or all the lines? Should I replace any other gaskets while I'm at it?

Is there a proven way to do an EGR delete or bypass without tripping a CEL?

Thanks!

Read up here on merits of pulling working GP's. Advanced search for 606 & stuck & GP's, etc.

You can get a viton oring "kit" for the 606.962 from fryerpower.com or get new MB fuel lines from Phil with buna orings attached. You'll also need an IM gasket and a EGR seal ring too.

If you elect to do the DV's, ask for assistance here first. If you do them, you'll wnat all new plastic holder/clips for the metal fuel lines too.

nate300d · #4 01-22-2008, 03:19 PM

Be sure to replace the o-ring on the shut off valve. You also may want to replace the torx head bolts on the shut off valve. The bolts on mine had such shallow sockets that removing them did a lot of damage to the socket. They still worked, but putting news one in (which had deeper sockets) provided some peace of mind.

notfarnow · #5 01-22-2008, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TMAllison

Read up here on merits of pulling working GP's. Advanced search for 606 & stuck & GP's, etc.

I've read every GP thread I could find, especially the (painful) ones about DIY pullers for removing broken off plugs.

The GPs were changed 3 years ago. I'm afraid to just leave them until I have trouble. At the very least, I'd like to take them out, ream the holes, and then reinstall them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TMAllison

You can get a viton oring "kit" for the 606.962 from fryerpower.com or get new MB fuel lines from Phil with buna orings attached. You'll also need an IM gasket and a EGR seal ring too.

If you elect to do the DV's, ask for assistance here first. If you do them, you'll wnat all new plastic holder/clips for the metal fuel lines too.

DVs?

nhdoc · #6 01-22-2008, 07:29 PM

DVs=Delivery Valve seals.

Parrot of Doom · #7 01-22-2008, 07:35 PM

Might be an idea to get a new gasket for the intake/head connection, although mine (gasket) is sealed with blue gasket paste and its fine.

There is a very large o-ring that attaches to the bottom of the EGR valve (where the big pipe comes in). Get a new one of those.

Get a 2 metre length of return line. Its cheap and you might as well do it.

Get some plastic clips for the injector lines. They'll all be brittle and weak. They cost pence (cents in colonial money)

While you're at it, give the EGR valve a damn good scrub. It's very heavily sprung so get a mate to push it open for you while you scrub it.

To clean the manifold, you need a long bottle brush.

Be careful you don't drop anything in the pipe that attaches to the EGR. That would be bad....

notfarnow · #8 01-22-2008, 08:35 PM

About those glow plugs... I was planning on changing them all, but after reading some threads I fugured I'd replace any that were bad, but remove them all and ream the holes. Where does a fellah get the reamer? Any DIY alternatives to a Special Tool xxxyyy?

As for all the other itemes, I'll put together a shooping list of all the bits & pieces and then get you guys to confirm that I'm on the right track.

I appreciate all the help!

aklim · #9 01-22-2008, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by notfarnow

About those glow plugs... I was planning on changing them all, but after reading some threads I fugured I'd replace any that were bad, but remove them all and ream the holes. Where does a fellah get the reamer? Any DIY alternatives to a Special Tool xxxyyy?

As for all the other itemes, I'll put together a shooping list of all the bits & pieces and then get you guys to confirm that I'm on the right track.

I appreciate all the help!

Go to Wal*Mart and buy a couple of cheap gun brushes. I did that and it worked just fine. You use the smaller one to ream where the tip of the GP goes and the larger one to ream out the body of where the GP goes. Personally, I think the latter is the problem child but I did the former just because I was there. They squeaked a bit even with anti-seize and went in squeaky. Cleaned the body and all was well.

nhdoc · #10 01-23-2008, 06:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by notfarnow

About those glow plugs... I was planning on changing them all, but after reading some threads I fugured I'd replace any that were bad, but remove them all and ream the holes. Where does a fellah get the reamer? Any DIY alternatives to a Special Tool xxxyyy?

As for all the other itemes, I'll put together a shooping list of all the bits & pieces and then get you guys to confirm that I'm on the right track.

I appreciate all the help!

I don't see the wisdom in this. I'd say if your mind is set on removing all of the GPs then replace them all at this time, though my first choice would be to leave well enough alone and not remove them if they are working. If they are not stuck after 3 years I don't think they will be stuck any time in the future and if they are stuck now why break one off just to make work for yourself when the GP in there might last as long as you own the car? I know others disagree with my thinking but my feeling now is it is not worth the risk of breaking one just to put your mind at ease to know they are not stuck in there.

The reamer is available from M-B or samstag tools.

NJ300TD · #11 01-23-2008, 10:53 AM

I'll echo what most others are saying: replace everything you can while you have it off. Over the weekend my 99 E300 started dripping diesel behind the shut off valve. Like yours the intake manifold is coming off so I'm replacing everything. I bought the viton o-rings and hoses from Jim at fryerpower.com (great guy and quick shipping!). For $45 it is worth it to replace everything. Not sure but check to see if the EGR o-ring is included.

What did others do about the fuel lines (the smaller plastic lines w/ the clips)? The o-rings can be replaced w/ viton but what about the hoses themselves? Is there a source for viton or do they matter? I have an indy MB guy doing it on Friday and I want to make sure he has all the parts.

NJ300TD · #12 01-23-2008, 11:03 AM

You may have read this but here's another 99 E300 thread with some info about removing the intake manifold bolts plus some pics of the fuel system.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=189097

This diagram is useful and has all the o-ring locations:

http://detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.asp?TP=1&F=210025&M=606%2E962&GA=722%2E608&CT=M&cat=19T&SID=07&SGR=120&SGN=04

TMAllison · #13 01-23-2008, 12:29 PM

I agree with Marty, if you are going to pull the GP's then replace them with new. I also agree that removing working GP's is very high risk and gains virtually nothing. Have often wondered if those advocating wrenching on GP's to see if they are siezed also periodically test their exhaust manifold studs too? Too many here have snapped a perfectly good GP off causing themselves untold grief thinking they are perfroming required preventitive maint.

NJ300TD -OEM is the only option available for fuel lines. Other than the oring seals, I can not recall one ever having cracked or leaked regardless of fuel type used.

notfarnow · #14 01-23-2008, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NJ300TD

For $45 it is worth it to replace everything. Not sure but check to see if the EGR o-ring is included.

http://www.fryerpower.com/store/page11.html

Viton 606.962 O-Ring Kit, Free Shipping in the US!
$27.50
This is a kit of viton o-rings for the 606.962 engine.
2 Spin on fuel filter O-Rings (Numbers 11 and 14 in the linked diagram)
1 Prefilter O-Ring (Number 29 in the linked diagram)
1 Shutoff valve O-Ring
9 Fuel line O-Rings (one at the filter housing)
3 Fuel line at the filter housing O-Rings
6 Delivery valve O-Rings
1 Tank Screen O-Ring

Doesn't say anything about the EGR O-ring. Where should I get that and the IM gasket? I also ordered 4 ft of the viton return line.

Anything else?

Quote:

Originally Posted by TMAllison

NJ300TD -OEM is the only option available for fuel lines. Other than the oring seals, I can not recall one ever having cracked or leaked regardless of fuel type used.

Ok, so then it's really just the O-rings that need attention? I've often read about replacing the fuel lines, but is it generally the O-rings that are air leak culprits? I certainly don't mind the idea of buying new fuel lines, but not if it's unnecessary.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TMAllison

I agree with Marty, if you are going to pull the GP's then replace them with new. I also agree that removing working GP's is very high risk and gains virtually nothing. Have often wondered if those advocating wrenching on GP's to see if they are siezed also periodically test their exhaust manifold studs too? Too many here have snapped a perfectly good GP off causing themselves untold grief thinking they are perfroming required preventitive maint.

I guess I really don't know what to do then. Is there a torque setting I can safetly use to try removing them without breaking them? Can I use my cordless impact driver at a low setting?

Ideally, I'd like to find that they all come out easily, then ream the holes and anti-seize the threads (not that the threads are the issue). Some seem to recommend removing the GPs every year to PREVENT having them seize. I would be comfortable doing that, no problem. I just think it would be a shame if they aren't seized now, and I missed an opportunity to AVOID having them seize. Make sense?

TMAllison · #15 01-23-2008, 01:43 PM

The orings are the only real issue with the fuel lines other than new clear lines being easier to see bubbles through than old yellowed lines if you develop a leak in the future.

Phil (BUY PARTS tab) has the gasket and egr seal ring as does the dealer.

The problem with the GP's is the price of admission when you find out the "hard way" that a "functioning" GP WAS siezed. It was functioning fine, what purpose was seved by breaking it now......?

+45nm is thought to be the danger point.