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  #1  
Old 03-13-2008, 02:10 PM
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I dont mean to hijack this thread, but I just did my shocks with new blistens. The old front shocks from shock up were:
1. shock
2. large washer
3. rubber washer
4. car frame
5. ruber washer
6. large washer
7. top nut

With the blistens, number 2 was not in either shock package. It looked as if they were meant to go from the shock to the rubber washer then the frame.

I tried to re use the old washer but I could not get the top nut on with the extra washer, the shock was not long enough.

I installed without those washers, and I assume I did the install correctly and that the blistens are just different, but I wanted to make sure with everyone here.

To answer spugeddy, no they are not compressed when they come to you. I didnt even take off the wheels or support the control arm. I just turned the wheels all the way one way, took out the bolt, turned the other way, took out the other bolt, shock came right out.

To reinstall, I just simply put in the blisten the same way as removal, with the upper shock up in the wheel well. When it came time to put the top nut on, I just simply pushed down on the shock and compressed it myself, moved over to the frame hole, and let go. Very easy.
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  #2  
Old 03-13-2008, 02:23 PM
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Yes, front shocks don't need to be compressed to install, only the rear ones and only if the car is not on a lift.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #3  
Old 03-13-2008, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
Yes, front shocks don't need to be compressed to install, only the rear ones and only if the car is not on a lift.
On the cars, 123's, you don't need to compress the rears either.
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  #4  
Old 03-13-2008, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post
On the cars, 123's, you don't need to compress the rears either.
Unless the car is jacked up very high I believe the shock needs to be compressed in order to slide up into the hole in the lower control arm and up inside the spring. A fully extended shock is too long to make the turn.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Last edited by kerry; 03-13-2008 at 05:52 PM.
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  #5  
Old 03-13-2008, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
Unless the car is jacked up very high I believe the shock needs to be compressed in order to slide up into the hole in the lower control arm and up inside the spring. A fully extended shock is too long to make the turn.
On the front, the shocks bolted right in, rears too, straight out of the box.
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  #6  
Old 03-19-2008, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1981_300sd View Post
I dont mean to hijack this thread, but I just did my shocks with new blistens. The old front shocks from shock up were:
1. shock
2. large washer
3. rubber washer
4. car frame
5. ruber washer
6. large washer
7. top nut

With the blistens, number 2 was not in either shock package. It looked as if they were meant to go from the shock to the rubber washer then the frame.

I tried to re use the old washer but I could not get the top nut on with the extra washer, the shock was not long enough.

I installed without those washers, and I assume I did the install correctly and that the blistens are just different, but I wanted to make sure with everyone here.

To answer spugeddy, no they are not compressed when they come to you. I didnt even take off the wheels or support the control arm. I just turned the wheels all the way one way, took out the bolt, turned the other way, took out the other bolt, shock came right out.

To reinstall, I just simply put in the blisten the same way as removal, with the upper shock up in the wheel well. When it came time to put the top nut on, I just simply pushed down on the shock and compressed it myself, moved over to the frame hole, and let go. Very easy.



Anyone have any comments on this issue?
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  #7  
Old 03-19-2008, 09:03 AM
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Location: FL
Posts: 507
hello

according to the bilstein insert in the box, there are different washer, rubber, nut, setups depending on the type of shock. The SD's looked to have a different shock style, and so whether or not you were supposed to have that second washer....???

Not to sound rude, but have you changed shocks before, and did you secure the top nut first. I put it on a jack stand from below to make sure it was "all the way up" through the body hole. It fit perfectly... although my new shocks only came with one top nut...
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  #8  
Old 03-20-2008, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spugeddy View Post
Not to sound rude, but have you changed shocks before, and did you secure the top nut first. I put it on a jack stand from below to make sure it was "all the way up" through the body hole. It fit perfectly... although my new shocks only came with one top nut...
The issue was not the fact that it may have not been "all the way up". What I am saying is that the old shock had a longer rod, so that the extra washer would fit. With the blistens, the top washer, as well as the top and bottom rubber washer, all fit correctly. When I added the extra washer from the old shocks (lower washer that was on the old shocks but did not come with the new blistens), the rod was not long enough to add the extra washer and still be able to get the nut on top to grab onto the shock threads.

Kind of confusing to explain, am I describing the issue clearly enough?
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  #9  
Old 03-20-2008, 05:59 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: FL
Posts: 507
yep

yeah, I am with you know. My bilstein was exactly the same size/length, etc...

It made it easier to get the old one to drop out and have enough clearance to insert the new.
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