Yep thats where all the time and labor goes, getting the panals and surface perfect for the new paint.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Here's the catch, you cannot completely sand properly dead up to the very edge of the window gasket, leaving a potential for it to begin peeling in time, also leaving any exposed paint edge gives the weather a place to get under the paint and begin the process. Removing the glass isn't necessary to paint, but the old seal should at least be cut back and later replaced or lifted up, so the paint edge is in a sealed area.

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Chris
64 190D R.I.P.
80 240D W/617 engine -for sale
82 240D -for sale

Very true. I'm betting on the fact that the car will always be garaged, and rarely driven in the harsh weather elements. I think I have a good 10-15 year paint job under those conditions. At that age, hopefully, I can afford a full restoration. I'll park it right next to my SL and newly "vintage" SLR Mclaren.

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1985 500SL Euro w/ AMG bits 130k
1984 300SD Turbodiesel 192k
1980 240D Stick China 188k
2001 CLK55 AMG 101k
2007 S600 Biturbo 149k Overheated Project, IT'S ALIVE!!!

I wonder how much an SLR is going to depreciate in 15 years? Bet you can pick one up for $50k or less. I can't see a MB holding its value like an F car.


SLR is kind of tame though, a Zonda is more my style.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

If you're looking to save money,the preparation is probably the most expensive part of a good paint job, and the most important. You could do that yourself and then pay a professional to paint it. I just read Carrameow's thread about painting his. You might want to read it first, too.

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" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century

OBK #55

1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold
Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold
Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles
2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles
2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles

If you are going to leave the gaskets in place, take some twine or rope and force it under the seal. This lifts up the edge of the seal, allowing the new paint to flow under the existing seal. Kind of like using dental floss on your teeth.

This way, when the seal shrinks later, a paint ridge is not present.

Jim

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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles
95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles
94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles
85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles

they did that with my paint job

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1985 500SL Euro w/ AMG bits 130k
1984 300SD Turbodiesel 192k
1980 240D Stick China 188k
2001 CLK55 AMG 101k
2007 S600 Biturbo 149k Overheated Project, IT'S ALIVE!!!

If doing part of the work and having someone else paint be sure to coordinate with them and use the same company's products and advice for the primer,sealer,etc..

Remember that primer does not protect paint from rusting. But at the same time you need a couple of weeks between the last time you shoot primer and when you sand before the top coat... this is because different thicknesses and different types of medium take up thinner each time you spray....so it swells up.... if you block sand too fast then that area will be low a week from then when the thinner has finally evaporated.

Taking the windows out really helps if that is possible... on these old Mercedes you are likely to need to repair actual rusted out spots under the front or rear glass... do a search on this forum if you don't believe that... there is even a factory repair listed in the Tech bulletins for the rear of 123's..

If using cartridge breathers be sure to read the instructions...they have a very limited life span... IIRC typically 6-8 hours of actual use... less if you are not in a well ventilated space...they don't tell you they have stopped working... they just let you breathe those things you were trying to avoid...and which are WELL WORTH avoiding...

I'm considering pulling the glass from the front and rear since the gaskets are getting kinda stiff, especially the rear. I'm not expecting rust since this has been a desert car all it's life and I have yet to find a speck of it anywhere! My neighbors next to me and across the street both do their own paint, Mike on his motorcycles and Randy painted his Honda and his truck and they came out great! I'm not worried about water heaters and such since these are not only solar, but not in my garage in the first place, it is a separate outbuilding from the house.

The factory Anthracite Metallic #172 comes premixed with the proper amount of metallic suspended in the paint. But yes, I realise that the bumpers, headlights and tailights, door handles, trim and such will have to be removed.

Are new trim pieces readily available for w126 & w123?

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1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)

If the gaskets are already getting stiff, plan to replace them. Cut the old seals back into the recessed area where the welded body seam is, leave just enough lip to hold the glass in (it doesn't take much). this keeps the interior safe, prevents the paint edge troubles, and allows you to preview the condition of the body around the windows before you paint.
The amount/mix of the metallic doesn't have such a bearing on the outcome as the spray technique does, the key is just to stay with the same speed, distance and direction (horizontal or vertical) as you go so the flakes "lay out" the same. Roll in and out of each pass (think of an arc flattened in the middle), & do not hold the gun trigger in as you change directions back and forth, to prevent heavy spots at the end of each pass. That creates a blotchy appearance later.

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Chris
64 190D R.I.P.
80 240D W/617 engine -for sale
82 240D -for sale

Thanks! I'm going to replace the gaskets because here in the desert, rubber does dry out and my 240D has this problem right now in the back window! The gasket is so dry I'm considering ordering a new one and taking it to a glass shop, but i like the idea of cutting back on the rubber edge, it solves a few problems!

That is a good description except for one sentence..which is in conflict with all the rest of it..

"Roll in and out of each pass (think of an arc flattened in the middle)"

Drop that concept and say ' start the spray process before getting to the object being sprayed... because the rest of the part about staying the same distance,speed,direction are correct....

One other factor on metallics..

"Anthracite Metallic #172 comes premixed with the proper amount of metallic suspended "

This may be sorta wishful thinking from one angle.... some things in suspension need to be kept in suspension while painting... they make paint cans with magnets inside and magnets below which are spun by your air pressure ... like magnetic fish tank cleaners.... some metallics need this sort of care to provide even dispersion......some don't.... better to watch for it as you go and plan ahead if you can.... manually swirling the gun around regularly may help....

Yeah, swirling the gun around frequently was what we used to do as well. The paint will still have to be shaken up/ stirred up before and during using, but the technology has come a long way since 1987! Acrylic Laquer isn't even available anymore!

Urethane single stage paint seems to do better here in the desert than others with a clear though. I first originally thought about painting my car Light Ivory #623 because of the desert heat and that light colors deal with the heat and direct sunlight better when it's 120* in the shade!

But then I'm doing the entire car, including places you don't see and I'm concerned about reducing it's value from original. I have a black interior, yeah, in the Sonoran Desert! Real sheepskins keep my skin from cooking and thank god my AC blows cold and gets good fuel economy with Envirosafe!

Oh yeah MB still makes almost everything for these cars.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200