Well it was the lower balljoint making the noise, however those balljoints are the freakin devil!

Anyhow all is well it a couple small exceptions, i had just had it aligned before i did all this, which was dumb, but now that i replaced all the tie rods, matched them up as best I could seems to be pretty close, but my steering wheel is offcenter, not gonna mess with it just gonna take it and get i aligned again since I have brand new tires on it, they should center the steering wheel for me.

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1984 300D Turbo 169k

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."
-----Mark Twain

I am going to be doing this job shortly as well. Do you know good sources for the tools to break apart the various joints in the front end? I have a couple different pickle forks but they tend to destroy seals.

My plan is buy used spindles/uprights and install the new balljoints on those so as to have them ready and minimize downtime. I did buy the tool to install the joints on my press so I am set there.

i used the tie rod seperator as usual, but i replaced them all so i wasn't concerned about damaging the boots. About the best suggestion i can give is to put the nut on top of the tie rod end and smack it with a hammer.

Good deal buying an extra set of spindles will make life much easier.

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1984 300D Turbo 169k

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."
-----Mark Twain

Thanks. I am tempted to just buy all new components. I have the spring loaded tool for doing the alignment. Boy, some of the local shops sure see you coming when you want an alignment done on the Mercedes. Cha-ching.

I did this job this weekend. Replaced the tie rods, idler arm, ball joints and LCA bushings. What a job. I took the LCA's to a machine shop and that was fairly simple to have them press out and in the ball joints. The tie rods were fun...and I found that the best way was to use the pickle fork, smack it in the joint and then apply pressure to it as I tapped the screw end...30 seconds or less and each joint was out.

It has made a huge change to the ride of the 247k mile'd 95 E300D. You'll not regret it.

Andy

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'95 E300D 313k miles
http://www.ourfullhouse.com

I would buy all new components...you'll be pleased that you did...when you do the work that is.

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'95 E300D 313k miles
http://www.ourfullhouse.com

if you already have the install tool and a press, why bother with the extra $$ to get used spindles? I did my front end last spring, and after I ordered parts, I found spindles off a 126 w/ good balljoints- but I still opted to keep my spindles and put in the new balljoints.

If you have a fleet, or no tools, then it kinda makes since to keep an extra set of spindles on hand. makes for a quick swap, only slightly more time than a bearing re-grease.

there are many post' with different separator tools which do not ruin the components.
I dont see any reason to replace good parts.


good luck.

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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven.

1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven.

They are probably not needed, you're correct. I just want to make the repair go as trouble free as possible. Murphy is probably waiting around the corner for me to break or damage the original spindles somehow, turning a weekend job into a weeks job. It's like breaking a stud off in the most inaccessible area of the engine.

Laugh -- I replaced the glow plugs a couple weekends ago -- five out of six studs on the old plugs broke off when I undid the harness connectors. Hercules must have tightened them.

Here is the ball joint separator that I used:http://www.toolsource.com/ball-joint-separator-p-94185.html

A word of caution when using this type of separator.........loosen the nut for the top ball joint but do not remove it completely. Leave the nut on the end threads for protection from buggering up the threads. Please don't ask me how I know this!............The shaft for the upper ball joint is hollow and the pressure required to separate is sufficient to damage those threads. The caveat: those are M10x1.0 threads and literally nobody has a die that size in any standard/professional tap-n-die sets. Also, outside of the dealer, that self locking nut is virtually unavailable! Believe me it will turn into a can-o'-worms.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

got it aligned today, its freakin toight!

__________________
1984 300D Turbo 169k

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."
-----Mark Twain

Oh i did forget to mention that the alignment shop said my right front brake was dragging they couldnt turn the wheel, which I find odd so I need to investigate tomorrow before work.

__________________
1984 300D Turbo 169k

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."
-----Mark Twain