83 300D Turbo Drain Tube Prob. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

saludayaker · #1 01-31-2009, 04:04 PM

I am in the middle of a repair on my turbo drain tube. I looked at the DIY article on this site and thought it was doable. After getting the oil pan off(and breaking a bolt in the process) I was unable to get to the top of the drain line. I have no idea how to get that top part undone, where the tube attaches to the turbo. There are 2 bolts that need to be removed but I just can't get to them nevermind remove them. I only need to replace the bottom half of the return line. How do I go about removing/getting to those bolts holding on the top portion? Any help would be great...this problem is starting to get the best of me.
Thanks,
Erich

::matthew · #2 01-31-2009, 04:17 PM

here's the FSM page for it, I believe. What manual do you have?

howards@howards · #3 01-31-2009, 04:36 PM

You haven't even gotten to the hard part yet. There is detailed instructions on this site on how to do it. I just did it on my 83 300d
The bottom tube hack into small pieces drop pan. Massacer rubber grommit and dig around tube to get grommit out. Do not beat on aluminum oil pan rail. Become farmilliar with how far up the grommet goes up the tube becouse thats the last step. DO NOT put the new grommet on the new tube out of the car.(my grommet broke in my hand).

I shortened the upper tube by about .25 " to get it in.

If you not on a lift you need you need to be. Take you time it took me about 10 hours. The MB mech said it can't be done without taking the turbo out. good luck..

::matthew · #4 01-31-2009, 04:40 PM

a member here ( or maybe BW) did a tuturial too.

DeliveryValve · #5 01-31-2009, 04:41 PM

To get to the bolts at the bottom of the turbo, you go from underneath the car and use a 13mm swivel socket. Make sure you have a replacement gasket for the turbo connection, clean the mating surfaces good and use no silicone.

Because of the limited space, the hard part is getting leverage to remove the tube from the oil pan (which you can dig the oil grommet out to help) and pressing it back in with the new O ring and grommet. You might also have to unbolt the A/C line to gain clearance to get the tubes out of the space. I was able to do it w/out cutting the tubes.

saludayaker · #6 01-31-2009, 05:05 PM

Wow, thanks for the quick replies. This is really turning into a major PITA. I don't have any manual, just following the DIY article from this site. It seems a lot easier on that article b/c it is more open than what I'm dealing with. There is also a lot of PVC cement around the base of the tube from the previous owner. He tried using that to fix the leak but now thats just causing more problems. THere's also a line behind that tube that i'm worried about damaging if i get too rough with it. I will try it again tomorrow but I think I'm going to have to get a new ratchet to get to those bolts on the turbo. So far i have removed the heat shield by the turbo and the air tube for the turbo. ANy other advice?

charmalu · #7 01-31-2009, 08:16 PM

Look in the DIY section, BODYART did a good Pictorial on the turbo drain tube.

Charlie

saludayaker · #8 02-01-2009, 09:23 AM

yea, i've been going by that pictoral but that's on a 300 SD which looks to have a lot more room under the hood. It also doesnt explain how to actually remove those 2 bolts connecting the turbo drain tube to the turbo. That's where I'm stuck.

Ken300D · #9 02-01-2009, 09:30 AM

For my 1982 300D, I combined this job with a replacement of the intake/exhaust manifold gasket. The original manufacturer's gasket has something of a design flaw which will allow a leakage path through the gasket. That is, through the middle of the gasket between the two metal sides. The replacement design has a metal sealing ring all around each manifold hole. A small exhaust gas leak through the manifold would be liveable, but what I was getting was a lot of oil leakage due to oil vapor recirculation into the intake manifold.

So, combining the turbo drain tube reseal with the intake/exhaust manifold gasket (it is a one-piece gasket for sealing both manifolds, as they all run in one line down the side of the engine) made the turbo work simple. When you loosen the exhaust manifold and remove the flexible section of exhaust, the turbo comes off with the manifold. The tube gaskets are then a piece of cake to replace. I had no leakage from the gasket between the upper tube and the turbo, and I expect few would have a problem here.

It's the o-ring between the two tube sections and the grommet at the bottom interface to the upper oil pan that causes problems. And I don't know why people think they can seal this with PVC cement.

Now that side of the engine is dry.

Ken300D

saludayaker · #10 02-02-2009, 09:35 AM

Thanks for all the great input. I have gotten the tubes removed using a 1/4" drive (small ratchet) from the top. I ran out of daylight though so I had to call it quits. I was having a hell of a time trying to get the grommet into the oil pan. I tried the boiling water method and got it onto the tube but once i tried to push it into the oil pan the grommet just slid right up the tube. I may try the other method of puttting the grommet into the oil pan first then pushing the tube into the grommet. Any thoughts? I seriously hope this is going to solve my oil leak. There is so much built up junk and grime around there I'm starting to worry that there may be another leak somewhere else.

saludayaker · #11 02-03-2009, 02:58 PM

Can anyone tell me which method works better? Grommet in pan first or grommet on tube first?

JMan300sd · #12 04-27-2009, 09:22 PM

I wen't for the grommet in tube first. Still a real PITA.

Now I have another problem... the gasket between the Turbo and the tube (where you had a hard time removing the bolts) is leaking. I've replaced it twice and I'm ready to pull out my hair. Am I tightening too much? Do you guys use sealant (I havent either time as I remember reading it's supposed to go on dry).

Ken300D...How hard was it to R&R the Exhaust&Intake manifold gasket? I can tell mine leaks a little but not too much. Was wondering how much time it took. Trying to determine if it's worth it. I'm really trying to make my engine spotless, but if it's going to take all day then I probably have bigger fish to kill.

leathermang · #13 04-27-2009, 11:11 PM

Thank you guys for reminding me why I got rid of my turbo wagon and am driving a 240d with perhaps 60 hp on a good day.

Simpler=Better · #14 04-27-2009, 11:28 PM

BWAHAHAHAHAHA
I got my old seal out, and new seal in in 30 MINUTES while snowing, when it was 8*F outside, AT 11:00PM.

Hasn't leaked a drop since.

Did I mention I never removed the oil pan or read the FSM?

The secret:
1. Inspect removed tube for holes, pitting, etc. Replace if necessary.
2. Oil on tube, oil on seal, oil on oilpan hole
3. Put seal on tube
4. Put 2ft-3ft long PVC pipe over tube, so that it presses on the seal's lip. Be sure to adequately deburr PVC prior to doing this.
5. Start tube-seal-PVC assembly into hole
6. Hit PVC pipe with dead blow hammer.
7. Gloat.

Also, I have used a small amount of RTV on the drain flange(that contacts the turbo) without any leaks or ill effects.

SD Blue · #15 04-27-2009, 11:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by saludayaker

yea, i've been going by that pictoral but that's on a 300 SD which looks to have a lot more room under the hood. It also doesnt explain how to actually remove those 2 bolts connecting the turbo drain tube to the turbo. That's where I'm stuck.

I've tried a few of the methods to accomplish this task and slightly disagree with some of the methods as this job is not near as hard as stated. Here is one of the better DIY's I've seen: http://mbz.org/articles/engine/diesel/seals/ Note the mention of the 2 bolts you had a question about.

To remove the top portion of the drain tube, after removing the two bolts, push straight down on the two sections. After that, there should be sufficient clearance where a slight pry of a screwdriver on the flange will ease it out, directly to the side. (Also, good old vaseline works great for an assembly lube.)

To remove the bottom portion of the drain tube, I found nylon strapping worked the best. I looped it over a long screwdriver and set the length where I could pry on something substantial above. Then wrap the strapping around the tube and clamp, top and bottom, with a couple of worm clamps. The tube popped right out. No sledge hammers, beating or cursing.

Note in the link I provided that the recommendation for the sequence of installing the grommet. In other posts I've seen, there is mention of having to force the tube and bottom o-ring through the grommet. Not So!! More than likely this will tear the grommet to shreds. (This was my experience.) If you do the assembly as suggested in the link, all should go together easily.