WOW... I wonder how he checked the transducers and crossover valves...

I like the 2 charges for the injector test, reseal, and compression test...
cause you've got to remove the injectors to do the compression test.. Oh... and you have to replace the crush washers.. and that will reseal the injectors..

There is nothing really glaring that can't be fixed by a DIYer with a little time and patience.

The dripping return lines I fixed in 15 minutes while the wife was talking to her mother. (at mother-in-laws house) no big mess.

ForcedInduction said it best.... to paraphrase..... RUNAWAY!!!

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92 300D 2.5L OM602 OBK #59

Now, I tend to get insulted by things like that, and would probably wipe my *** with their estimate and send it back to them.
Never go to a dealership unless it's warranty or recall work, and even then make sure they understand before you give them the keys that you will not be paying for anything.
Find a good independent.

Thanks guys for your help with my rookie questions and concerns, I am just trying to make sure I get all my bases covered before I dig into figuring out my issues, and fixing them. I may be confused here, but isn't the compression test, and injector test two different tests, but both involving removal of the injectors either way? and can I completely remove them to send them to be "tested", and /or possibly rebuilt? Of course my car will just be sitting there, but I want to make sure they're good of course and not the cause of my issues. I believe with the white/smoke issue I'm gonna change out my transducers (vacuum solenoids) that control the wastegate on my turbo, and do the compression test, and go from there.


*EDIT* D'oh!!! just reread my own blasted thread and saw that the injectors HAVE to be removed in order to do the compression test. ugh!! I really should scan these threads before just posting a blind reply to people.. sheesh... I'm going to search as well, but if anyone has successfully done a compression test with pics a link would be awesome. I've read through it in the manuals, but I'm still confused as to what goes where.

I think that the car is a money-pit and you should sell it cheap to me before you come to your senses.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Just how cheap.. You may end up in a bidding war.. LOL

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92 300D 2.5L OM602 OBK #59

heh, I'll take some pictures whenver the weather's nice (hopefully this weekend) and let you guys have a look at her, she really is something to see, my fiance gets on me all the time that I love the car more than her, and sometimes I wonder!! But first things first, looks like I'm pulling a blower fan to replace, and looking to burn tax return money on all parts for this lovely list of jobs, and then digging right in, manuals in hand er... well on computer lol. only thing I have issues with or foresee problems with is going to be the testing injectors, and compression, I assume there's a device I can acquire to make this pretty simple? oh yeah, and I'm not selling untill I get it fixed, and even then i'd list it at about a thirs to half what I paid, and I paid 7900 with me putting about 50k miles on it in about 5.5 years.

Noisy blower motor.... You may be able to buy some time by cleaning and lubing the bearings. I took mine out and sprayed some WD-40 on the shaft. It was quiet for about 8 months (but it smelled like WD-40 for a couple of weeks). I need to do it again, but I want to try something different. I want to try a product called deoxit (which is for electronic contacts) to remove the oxidation, then a spray lubricant with a solid lubricant additive -- PTFE, graphite, molybdenum disulfide, or something. Something that doesn't smell too bad.

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1987 W201 190D

Oh.. BTW.. Here's a really great link...
W124 300D Maintenance

HVAC system:


Good luck..

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92 300D 2.5L OM602 OBK #59

I think Dave would appreciate it if you used a hyperlink to his site instead of the URL. To do it like that you click on the little globe located in middle directly above. So it would look like this: Here's a really great link...

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1987 300TD 309, xxx 2.8.2014 10,000 mile OCI


Be careful of the toes you step on today, as they may be connected to the ass you have to kiss tomorrow. anonymous

“Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don’t matter, and those who matter won’t mind.” Dr. Seuss

Question, in my earlier post concerning stated repairs by the dealer, he said I needed new Lower Ball Joints, however none of the sites I've been searchin has returned an ID on what exactly a Lower Ball Joint is on my car, is there some other name that I'm not familiar with to search/get a price check on?

For the blower motor repair order one of these and pull the squirel cages off of yours, marking how they were on your old motor before removing. Small two arm puller will easily remove the cages. Part is $77 and an easy job. Did mine over a year ago.

http://www.***************/search/imageexpand.aspx?imageurl=../secure/PartImages/0130111012.jpg

Or you can order a new with cages for approx. $250

http://www.allpartsexpress.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1993-MERCEDES--BENZ-300d--.5--/--L5--497cc--.5l--Diesel--Fi--Turbo-Front--End--/--Suspension--Steering&yearid=1993%40%401993&makeid=MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40X&engineid=1193756%40%40300D+2%2E5+%2F+L5%2D2497cc+2%2E5L+DIESEL+FI++Turbo%40%40300D+2%2E5&catid=Front+End+%2F+Suspension+%26+Steering%40%40Front+End+%2F+Suspension+%26+Steering&subcatid=Front+Ball+Joint@@Front+Ball+Joint&mode=PA

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98 Dodge-Cummins pickup (137K)
13 GLK250 (157k)
06 E320CDI (341K)
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82 300GD Gelaendewagen (54K)