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#1
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WOW... I wonder how he checked the transducers and crossover valves...
I like the 2 charges for the injector test, reseal, and compression test... cause you've got to remove the injectors to do the compression test.. Oh... and you have to replace the crush washers.. and that will reseal the injectors.. There is nothing really glaring that can't be fixed by a DIYer with a little time and patience. The dripping return lines I fixed in 15 minutes while the wife was talking to her mother. (at mother-in-laws house) no big mess. ForcedInduction said it best.... to paraphrase..... RUNAWAY!!!
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92 300D 2.5L OM602 OBK #59 |
#2
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Now, I tend to get insulted by things like that, and would probably wipe my *** with their estimate and send it back to them.
Never go to a dealership unless it's warranty or recall work, and even then make sure they understand before you give them the keys that you will not be paying for anything. Find a good independent. |
#3
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Thanks guys for your help with my rookie questions and concerns, I am just trying to make sure I get all my bases covered before I dig into figuring out my issues, and fixing them. I may be confused here, but isn't the compression test, and injector test two different tests, but both involving removal of the injectors either way? and can I completely remove them to send them to be "tested", and /or possibly rebuilt? Of course my car will just be sitting there, but I want to make sure they're good of course and not the cause of my issues. I believe with the white/smoke issue I'm gonna change out my transducers (vacuum solenoids) that control the wastegate on my turbo, and do the compression test, and go from there.
*EDIT* D'oh!!! just reread my own blasted thread and saw that the injectors HAVE to be removed in order to do the compression test. ugh!! I really should scan these threads before just posting a blind reply to people.. sheesh... ![]() Last edited by DieselMarine; 03-10-2009 at 01:15 PM. |
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