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  #1  
Old 07-20-2009, 05:59 PM
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300SDL Clank in driveshaft

I replaced the flex discs as well as the center support, and the center support bearing. Yet when my 87 SDL downshifts and up shifts slowly there is still a clank in the drive shaft. Not as bad as before, but i want it gone.

Any ideas where this is coming from?

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  #2  
Old 07-20-2009, 08:17 PM
LarryBible
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Are you SURE that it is the driveshaft? Have you checked your differential mounts?

The best way to find such a problem is with the 4 P's: Push, Pull, Pry and Prod.
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  #3  
Old 07-20-2009, 08:27 PM
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The clank may be the trans itself downshifting. Mine does/did that. It actually stopped doing it once the trans began dying......
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  #4  
Old 07-20-2009, 08:51 PM
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It makes the same exact sound as when i took the drive shaft out and flexed it to come out. We are thinking it might be the transmission mounts that are causing to to move a bit..

Any input on this idea?
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  #5  
Old 07-20-2009, 09:44 PM
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All of them will make that sound if the shifts are too quick.

Put a vacuum gauge on the modulator line and take it for a drive. Report back with some data on vacuum at various operating modes.

My suspicion is that you've got a serious vacuum leak.
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  #6  
Old 07-21-2009, 09:14 AM
1986 300sdl 1985 380se
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
All of them will make that sound if the shifts are too quick.

Put a vacuum gauge on the modulator line and take it for a drive. Report back with some data on vacuum at various operating modes.

My suspicion is that you've got a serious vacuum leak.
I agree with Brian, my 86 300sdl had a vacuum leak and it made the worst sound when it downshifted while coasting to a red light. It literally banged on the downshifts, and you could really feel the shifts, up and down. It turned out that i dislodged a vacuum line while changing my fuel pre-filter. Hooked it back up and all was well.
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  #7  
Old 07-23-2009, 09:58 PM
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with a gauge on the vacuum line it sits around -15 psi at idle and will go to -13/14 when the rpms are about 2200 and up. Any suggestions as to where a leak may be? I have quickly inspected them and they all seem good. How can a leak be properly identified?
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  #8  
Old 07-23-2009, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ggspeed View Post
with a gauge on the vacuum line it sits around -15 psi at idle and will go to -13/14 when the rpms are about 2200 and up. Any suggestions as to where a leak may be? I have quickly inspected them and they all seem good. How can a leak be properly identified?
Which vacuum line did you put the gauge onto?

Did you route the gauge into the cabin so you and read it while your driving?
If so, what are the readings at 1/2 pedal, 3/4 pedal, and full pedal?
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  #9  
Old 07-24-2009, 11:25 AM
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I put it into the line labeled TRA that comes out of the blue circle labeled vacuum. I had somebody sit in there and rev the engine for me so i could get readings at different rpms

Last edited by ggspeed; 07-25-2009 at 01:08 AM.
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  #10  
Old 07-25-2009, 01:34 PM
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could this be a transmission mount
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  #11  
Old 07-27-2009, 12:48 AM
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Possible solution

Had the same problem with my 300sdl. Turned out to be the diff. Two large pins connect the carrier and ring gear. After 20 years and 400,000 miles the pins had opened their mounting holes into 2 inch slots! Every time power was applied the ring was clanking against the pin making a very ugly noise. Especially when downshifting! The easiest way to tell is put the parking brake on and put the car in neutral. Get underneath and try to turn the drive shaft. With a good diff you should get maybe 5 degrees either way. On my diff I was able to turn the drive shaft a full half turn before it stopped and made a familiar clank. Check your diff!

I found a picture. That slot should be a hole the size of that pin. Pretty huh?

Last edited by djustin973; 07-27-2009 at 01:00 AM.
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  #12  
Old 07-27-2009, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djustin973 View Post
Had the same problem with my 300sdl. Turned out to be the diff. Two large pins connect the carrier and ring gear. After 20 years and 400,000 miles the pins had opened their mounting holes into 2 inch slots! Every time power was applied the ring was clanking against the pin making a very ugly noise. Especially when downshifting! The easiest way to tell is put the parking brake on and put the car in neutral. Get underneath and try to turn the drive shaft. With a good diff you should get maybe 5 degrees either way. On my diff I was able to turn the drive shaft a full half turn before it stopped and made a familiar clank. Check your diff!

I found a picture. That slot should be a hole the size of that pin. Pretty huh?
Ouch, Did you replace or rebuild that puppy?
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  #13  
Old 07-27-2009, 11:32 AM
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I went and pulled the diff out of a 560sel so I could have the lower gear ratio. Now my car drives like it really should!
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  #14  
Old 07-27-2009, 11:35 AM
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What would cause that? Normal wear or lubrication problems? Doesn't look "normal" to me though.

Were there metal flakes in the fluid every time you changed it?
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  #15  
Old 07-27-2009, 09:54 PM
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Well I think that was exactly the problem. I've had the car for 30,000 miles and changed it once (yes there were metal flakes) but who knows how often it was changed before i owned it. If it was changed at all. Even people who know almost nothing about cars know that the oil, antifreeze, and other fluids need to be changed but for some reason no one ever thinks about their poor differential.

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