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#1
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Engine Oil Cooler Lines on a 126
Does anyone know how to replace the engine oil cooler lines on a 1982 300SD (126 body) without having to remove the left engine support member? I've heard there is a way, but never found out the details.
Thanks. Tom
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Tom Evans 69 280SE 91K (wish I still had it) 73 220D 98K 78 300D 134K 78 300D 185K 81 300SD 301K (still have) 82 300SD 321K (still have) 84 300D 268K 84 6.2 Diesel GMC Suburban 225K (a whole different story!) |
#2
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Yes, there is a way.
Take the new oil line (the upper line) and tape the end with duct tape. Then thread it between the mount and the engine from the front toward the rear. There will be a point where it won't want to go........but.......just force it.........the duct tape will protect the end of the line. It's a PITA.........I really can't say if it's easier than removing the bolt for the mount and lifting the engine........most folks go this alternate way. |
#3
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Note
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Have a great day.
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#4
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Brian, How about the lower hose? I think I heard somewhere that you thread that one from the rear to the front. Also, Can you get both hoses through by just removing the center bolt in the engine mount jacking the engine? I've always have to remove the support member in the past.
Whunter, Thanks for the suggestion, but the A/C is filled with R12 and working quite well. I don't think compressor removal is an option.
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Tom Evans 69 280SE 91K (wish I still had it) 73 220D 98K 78 300D 134K 78 300D 185K 81 300SD 301K (still have) 82 300SD 321K (still have) 84 300D 268K 84 6.2 Diesel GMC Suburban 225K (a whole different story!) |
#5
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Quote:
No, you thread from the front to the rear. I have not remove the center bolt and jacked up the engine. Others have done this with good success. I do not understand why the support member would need to be removed. |
#6
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Brian, One final question. Which old line do you remove first and in which direction?
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Tom Evans 69 280SE 91K (wish I still had it) 73 220D 98K 78 300D 134K 78 300D 185K 81 300SD 301K (still have) 82 300SD 321K (still have) 84 300D 268K 84 6.2 Diesel GMC Suburban 225K (a whole different story!) |
#7
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You remove the lower line first..........and pull it out from the front. You cannot get the upper line out with the lower line in place.
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#8
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Brian, Am I correct on this order:
1. Remove lower hose pulling it out the front 2. Remove upper hose pulling it out of the front 3. Install upper hose from the front 4. Install lower hose from the front 5. Have a beer When you reference upper and lower hoses, is it with respect to the oil cooler?
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Tom Evans 69 280SE 91K (wish I still had it) 73 220D 98K 78 300D 134K 78 300D 185K 81 300SD 301K (still have) 82 300SD 321K (still have) 84 300D 268K 84 6.2 Diesel GMC Suburban 225K (a whole different story!) |
#9
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Quote:
The oil cooler..........or the oil filter..........your choice. |
#10
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When I replaced mine, I removed the bottom bolt from the engine mount and used a jack to lift the engine. It made the task considerably easier and it only needs to be raised ~ 1" (the diameter of the hard line)
A word of caution....be sure to spray the end fittings liberaly with penetrating oil and double wrench the fittings.
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#11
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It's hard and frustrating enough with the mount completely removed and the engine lifted a bit. I'd lift the motor, its easy. I prefer installing them with the engine out of the car.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#12
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I want to thank all of you for your recommendations. I'll tackle the job tomorrow and report back how it goes.
I'll check back tonight to see if any more recommendations are posted.
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Tom Evans 69 280SE 91K (wish I still had it) 73 220D 98K 78 300D 134K 78 300D 185K 81 300SD 301K (still have) 82 300SD 321K (still have) 84 300D 268K 84 6.2 Diesel GMC Suburban 225K (a whole different story!) |
#13
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becareful taking the upper line off the filter housing. i couldn't get mine to come loose b/c everytime i tried to turn it, it would kink the line. i could get the cooler side off easily but the filter side is a *****, even w/ it being PB blaster soaked.
i wound up just cutting the rubber line and putting in a union. it's holding so far that hold down under the car by the front x member is a ***** to get out w/o lifting the motor. you can't get a socket on it and you can't get a rachet wrench on there either. just turn by turn w/ an open end wrench. OH, and why would they make that bolt so damn long!!
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83 300SD 226k virgin. 05 chevy duramax :bowdown: air suspension + 500hp = fun for everyone 01 silverado 2wd 1500 5.9 cummins |
#14
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I hadn't thought about PB Blaster. I'll soak the fittings tonight.
Thanks.
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Tom Evans 69 280SE 91K (wish I still had it) 73 220D 98K 78 300D 134K 78 300D 185K 81 300SD 301K (still have) 82 300SD 321K (still have) 84 300D 268K 84 6.2 Diesel GMC Suburban 225K (a whole different story!) |
#15
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The nuts don't need a lot of torque so be careful.
Hand tight and an extra 1/4 to 1/2 turn with a wrench. Don't tighten them anymore unless they leak. Danny
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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles OBK member #23 (\__/) (='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your (")_(") signature to help him gain world domination |
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