The pin remove removes the pins holding the upper chain guide (pictures in gsxr's response). If you've removed the injectors, use the heat shields a socket and a long 6mm bolt. Set the socket open side towards the pin, put the bolt through the socket into the pin using enough washers so it doesn't bottom in the pin. Tighten the bolt. At some point the bolt will bottom. Remove the bolt and add washers. Lather rinse repeat until the pin comes free of the head.

To get the chain loose you remove the tensioner. Loosen by the big hex against the block/front cover, not by the smaller hex on the tensioner stem. I think the same 27mm deep socket for injectors works on the tensioner.

Use a flashlight into the crank pulley from about the 11 o'clock position. Spray brake parts cleaner first so you see a distinct pointer and timing marks rather than a cruddy mess. Maybe look at the crank pulley from below as you turn the engine so you see the timing marks embossed on the rubber damper for a better feel of what you're looking for from above.

Since alignment of the cam sprocket and cam tower marks is somewhat subjective, average a half dozen readings, give the engine two full turns between.

Sixto
87 300D

Ben, a bit late but I'm in Salt Lake City if you need help.

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1981 230E, 1984 300D.
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www.ranwhenparked.net

The ball ends of the injector lines are pretty soft. They deform with over tightening then they have to be replaced. Not getting fuel to a cylinder won't cause white smoke.

Borrow or rent the A-B timing light in the tool rental forum for the straight way to set IP timing. You can get close enough with an IP locking tool. The tool has a slot which locks a tab that rotates with the IP shaft -



Set the tab visually just above center in the RIV port on the side of the IP. Put the locking tool in place with the slot oriented to engage the tab. Rotate the engine slowly until the locking tool pin recedes to indicate engagement. Read the crank pulley gradients against the TDC indicator. Ideally you'll see 14* ATDC. If not, remove the locking tool, set the crank to 14* ATDC, loosen the 4 bolts holding the IP tight against the block and use the same tool as you adjust IP timing using the turnbuckle.

The caveat is the o-ring between the block and IP might not appreciate being moved after 17 years in place and you'll have a dribble of engine oil pooling near the driver side engine mount.

Sixto
87 300D