Before you swap the oil canister gasket, often the bolts get loose over time. You can try just tightening the hex bolts. You'll need to modify an allen key but cutting part of the L off to get in there on one of the bolts.

This fix has worked on both of my 300D's, and many other forum members cars. Removing the oil filter housing is from what I can tell quite difficult. The power steering box is really in the way.

dd

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

I've done the oil filter housing on three vehicles. As Dieseldan mentioned, you need to grind off the short part of the L on an allen hex about an eighth inch or a bit more to squeeze it into one of the bolt heads that's blocked by the steering box. Do a good degreasing of the area before starting. The bolt heads should be very clean to seat the hex. Then use a short cheater bar on the hex to loosen the bolts. I was afraid I'd break the hex key, but they all unscrewed ok. With the bolts loose, the rest of the oil will spill out and collect on your face. After that, you'll be able to pull the housing loose enough to barely get to the gasket surfaces and scrape them off and clean them as best you can. I sprayed brake cleaner on the assembly and surfaces, but wear googles, try not to breath it, and let it dry thoroughly. Then wipe it down.

Fit the new gasket into the gap so that the bolt holes line up and put it back together. Its a PITA, but a very rewarding leak repair when finally done.

Edit: Its only slightly more work to go ahead and replace that gasket if you are to the point of turning the hex bolts. Also, simply tightening bolts risks making them even more difficult to get off if you end up having to do that.

This is a common leak and I think all 616-7s eventually have to be done.

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1983 CD
1958 Studebaker Packard (being resuscitated)

x2

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Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed

Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT

What size is that allen head key? I may want to buy a couple of extras in case I screw one up while grinding it down.

It could just be loose, I really don't know. The valve cover gasket has me more annoyed...I'm sure I got it seated straight....I won't buy Beck Arnley again.

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1983 300D - 314,640 miles (not all by me) - Daily Driver --Sold--
1983 300d - 215,000 miles (approximately)

6 mm

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1983 CD
1958 Studebaker Packard (being resuscitated)

I've also had similar problems with new valve cover gaskets. Ended up putting the old one back on and it sealed fine.

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1983 CD
1958 Studebaker Packard (being resuscitated)

- Clean the mating surface on the head really well with a paper towel (sometimes I push a wadded up towel with a long screwdriver).
- get the cruise control pod out of the way if you havent already
- put a thin film of new motor oil on the gasket mating surface
- when the valve cover seats correctly, it makes a really reassuring thump sound, hard to describe, but you know it when you hear it
- last, and not least, use a torque wrench and get the valve cover nuts to 15 nm. Tighten them bit by bit, alternating sides diagonally like a wheel. Dont overtighten.

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

I have a new german gasket coming soon, so when I replace it, I will follow that good advice.

Last time, I did hear the "thump" as well as did the incremental tightening of the nuts to 10 ft lbs.

Thanks,

Joe

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1983 300D - 314,640 miles (not all by me) - Daily Driver --Sold--
1983 300d - 215,000 miles (approximately)