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Alternator adjustment bolt ... not the L kind
... The adjustment bolt on my alternator in the 240D is stripped, so I bought a new one. It's not the L-shaped type, but a straight bolt with a gear collar around it that slides the alternator side to side when you turn it (http://www.allpartsexpress.com/item.wws?sku=MBZ082741&itempk=68162&mfr=Genuine&weight=0.25). Any tips on how to remove it? I took the nut off and tried to push it out but it won't budge. I'm guessing I just need to remove the air filter housing and hit it a little harder, but I thought I'd ask first in case there's some obvious step I'm missing, such as removing the alternator from the bracket.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#2
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Just make sure there isnt thread in the bracket it goes through & the nut is a lock. I have memories of having to unscrew a bolt. A long time ago & it might not have been on the Benz. Old age must be getting to me!!
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#3
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Only the tip of the new bolt is threaded, but I'll check to see that the threads don't overlap the dimensions of the hole it goes through. I know I'm gonna have to take the air cleaner off ... not that big a deal, but the little things seem so much more strenuous when it's 20 degrees and very windy out.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#4
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I would loosen item #'s 170, 251 and 227 first.
I watched someone make this adjustment from under the car, he didn't remove the air cleaner housing.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#5
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Thanks for the breakaway pic ... I did loosen all the nuts (and removed the one on the geared bolt). I wonder what #209 is and if that has anything to do with it. It's pretty easy to access the big bolt with everything intact, just not much leverage to knock it out.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#6
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Quote:
As I recall, #209 is sleeve that the bolt goes thru. I don't recall the purpose. I replaced an alternator on my FIRST 300D.
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
#7
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You mention the geared adjuster bolt being stripped; I assume you mean its bolt head is stripped? I will also assume then that this geared adjuster bolt will not turn! You have the nut removed from its end and it will still not turn?
What has most likely occurred is the steel bolt shaft has corroded and fused to the alternator’s alloy frame mounting ear. That is possibly why the head would get stripped also! You may be able to remove the bolt in situ by using heat/penetrant/hammer methods; it will likely take patience more than anything, as brute force will not work. If it where me I would remove the alternator from the car and work on it. The dangers with this particular problem is “mushrooming” the bolts threaded end making it impossible to drive it thru and out of the alternator frame from too much hammer application or in the alternative using too much “hammer” and breaking the entire alloy alternator frame mounting ear off with the bolt still securely seized in place! With the part off the car you can do all the things that might help much easier and effectively, and in all likelihood that will ultimately be necessary anyway. So don’t waste too much time trying to get lucky and have it just “pop out after a couple hits” it might, but it’s more likely to not happen that way! Once you get the new bolt installed get a spare socket and then grind down the socket opening so that you get the maximum of the female hex portion of the socket in contact with the bolt head's male portion. The way the geared bolt head is constructed and the way a socket does not have its working surfaces extending completely to the outer edge of its opening, in effect set up a circumstance where less than full contact is made between the parts to which torque is applied and the result is often a stripping/rounding of the bolt head. If you ever get the opportunity upgrading to the later style L-shaped bolt tensioner configuration is a project with a happy, useful result! Good Luck! |
#8
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Quote:
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#9
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I've taken one out. My recollection is that #209 was tight to the bolt. It would spin for the adjustment but was difficult to slide off the bolt. I'd try some penetrating oil. You may also need to drive the bolt thru 209 from the back towards the front with a drift.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#10
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Quote:
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#11
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Yes, that is also very likely if the bolt turns! You can obtain a new spacer or with the alternator on the bench, grind the head off the bolt and as much of the shaft inside the adjuster slot, grind the opposite threaded end off the bolt and as much of the shaft inside the adjuster bracket. Then you can lever the alternator and the spacer out of the bracket, the remaining bolt shaft can then be removed from the spacer much easier in a vise and reused. You've got to get the old bolt and spacer out even if you had a new bolt and spacer.
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#12
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Now I can't get the bolt that holds the top bit of the bracket out. Cripes. Guess I'll have to find my torch ... I think it's at my dad's shop on the other side of town.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#13
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You have to loosen the bolt on the attachment to the block that will allow the adjustment arm to pivot. The spacer cylinder will be a challenge to replace but without it you won't be able to tighten the alternator without deforming the bracket. Might have to wiggle the alternator to get that bolt out. I found it easier to turn the star bolt from the front. Used a torque wrench for the extra length. Make sure the belt is not in the way. This could
be blocking the bolt. It is a pretty easy thing to do once you've done it three or four times. I wish I could say Ive only had to do it once.
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Kevin 1978 300D 1979 240D |
#14
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Don't take out 230, just loosen it. 200 and 155 have to come out . Loosening 230 will allow 176 to pivot . This will facilitate tightening the belt with the star bolt (200) as well.
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Kevin 1978 300D 1979 240D |
#15
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Yeah, a sleeve, it's there so you won't crush the bracket.
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83 SD 84 CD |
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