oil cooler lines tips - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

johninva · #1 11-01-2010, 11:16 AM

did my first w123 oil cooler lines - just thought I may pass along some tips that other first timers may find helpful.
I used the remove the mount and shock technique after unsuccessful attempts at doing the lines without removing them.

1. remove the shock and the mount - REALLY REALLY makes it a lot easier.

2. I had to jack the motor up till the fan hit the top of the shroud, then remove the shroud clips and jack it up about an inch further - this allowed good access to the top rear 6mm mount bolt.

3. after marring up my engine shock shaft with vice grips to get the bottom bolt off - with it out i noticed a flat spot near the bottom of the shaft that a 7mm wrench fits on to keep it from turning. it is right above where the shaft passes through the body at the bottom.

this was on a 1985.

Stevo · #2 11-01-2010, 11:24 AM

LOL, your not the first guy that couldn't figure out how to hold that shock shaft, including me

slcturbo · #3 11-01-2010, 11:26 AM

So it sounds like I might as well plan on replacing the motor mounts and engine shocks while I'm at it? Any other typical worn out parts that I should plan on replacing at the same time? I have an 84 300D with 200K.

johninva · #4 11-01-2010, 11:34 AM

I was following the dieselgiant write up. he says to hold the shaft with vice-grips. As well, I read up here a great deal first and never saw the flat spot mentioned.

Stretch · #5 11-01-2010, 12:55 PM

If you are talking about the mount for the oil cooler pipe - I agree - I didn't find it necessary to remove engine mounts or jack up the engine though. If you remove the oil cooler / with or without the radiator that gives you a little bit more room and less of a feeling that you're likely to knacker your radiator whilst getting the lines out.

Diesel911 · #6 11-01-2010, 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johninva

did my first w123 oil cooler lines - just thought I may pass along some tips that other first timers may find helpful.
I used the remove the mount and shock technique after unsuccessful attempts at doing the lines without removing them.

1. remove the shock and the mount - REALLY REALLY makes it a lot easier.

2. I had to jack the motor up till the fan hit the top of the shroud, then remove the shroud clips and jack it up about an inch further - this allowed good access to the top rear 6mm mount bolt.

3. after marring up my engine shock shaft with vice grips to get the bottom bolt off - with it out i noticed a flat spot near the bottom of the shaft that a 7mm wrench fits on to keep it from turning. it is right above where the shaft passes through the body at the bottom.

this was on a 1985.

This plan was better than mine.

I knew the Flats were on the shaft but did not want to look for my 7mm Wrench. I decided to use an impact Wrench to Snatch off the Nut.

Instead of removing the Nut it unscrewed the Sock Shaft from the Piston that is inside of the Shock Body.
When the Shaft came out all of the Fluid dumped out on the ground.

This ruined it and I had to buy another one.

johninva · #7 11-01-2010, 01:18 PM

Quote:

If you are talking about the mount for the oil cooler pipe - I agree - I didn't find it necessary to remove engine mounts or jack up the engine though. If you remove the oil cooler / with or without the radiator that gives you a little bit more room and less of a feeling that you're likely to knacker your radiator whilst getting the lines out.

if you are talking about your 1981 here - its a different animal - the lines on my 1980 look like they will just come right out.

wildest · #8 11-01-2010, 03:12 PM

I can see the whole line route on my '79 and '85 300's from above, and I can't visualize what makes jacking the motor up necessary. Will the hard pipe sections just not fit around the motor mounts? Is the compressor in just the wrong place, the power steering lines? I'm going to do the '79 first, and try the 'I can see it so I can remove it without any other dis-assembly' method first. The oil cooler removal method interest me, too, as I just did that when I put a new radiator in the '85. I'll post the results, with pictures even (maybe), just to really flog a dead horse, I mean add to the data base. These assumptions are due to a less than exhaustive search and study of this subject on this and other sites, but I have spent a few hours perusing just this subject...

Ok, final edit. I forgot about the lines being connected to the block. Is it these that cause some of the problem, too?

okyoureabeast · #9 11-01-2010, 03:29 PM

If you bend the rubber portion of the hose back on itself and send the entire line between the power steering hoses you can easily route the metal portion up and into the oil filter housing.

Took me probably 15 minutes doing this

The hardest part of the job was cutting the old rubber and pulling the cooler housing out.

You can try and remove the lines without jacking the engine and changing the mounts, but doing the job myself I can gaurentee it isn't easy. The mount is in the worst possible position to attempt this.

Stevo · #10 11-01-2010, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

This plan was better than mine.

I knew the Flats were on the shaft but did not want to look for my 7mm Wrench. I decided to use an impact Wrench to Snatch off the Nut.

Instead of removing the Nut it unscrewed the Sock Shaft from the Piston that is inside of the Shock Body.
When the Shaft came out all of the Fluid dumped out on the ground.

This ruined it and I had to buy another one.

we "learn by doing" I guess thats about as bad as me leaving the main oil gallery plug out on reassembling my 616

Stretch · #11 11-02-2010, 03:53 AM

I probably won't be popular saying this - but I really don't see what the fuss is about. On a OM617 motor if you remove the front bracket from the block that hold the cooler lines in place you'll find it an easy job too.

JEBalles · #12 01-03-2011, 07:28 PM

I just did this job, with the benefit of having recently accessed oil cooler fittings, so nothing was seized. I had also previously removed the upper A/C line, if that makes a difference.

I did it without the special pipe tool, only an adjustable open end wrench. I removed the motor mount (not shock equipped) and the motor mount arm. Oil cooler lines slipped in and out easily with the motor mount arm removed.

It still took me a while to do, but if you know for you're in for the long haul (and you don't need to fuss with the lines if the arm is removed) then it's not that bad a job.

mikeyfev1 · #13 01-04-2011, 12:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Army

I probably won't be popular saying this - but I really don't see what the fuss is about. On a OM617 motor if you remove the front bracket from the block that hold the cooler lines in place you'll find it an easy job too.

Since this subject has been so strenuously argued and you propose a relatively simple solution, would you mind submitting a picture or two to illustrate the bracket you are mentioning?

Stretch · #14 01-04-2011, 04:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikeyfev1

Since this subject has been so strenuously argued and you propose a relatively simple solution, would you mind submitting a picture or two to illustrate the bracket you are mentioning?

Of course - no problem - I did it some time ago:-

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=273282

I'm almost 100% sure the method I propose will work on any OM617 in a W123. I admit that I don't have as many "extras" as others on my car but looking at pictures in my Haynes manual of an engine with everything on it I think this method is still a go-er.

Someone prove me wrong please! (With pictures of course) I'm only trying to help - I honestly think it is a relatively easy job.

I'll you what - when I get the chance I'll make another photograph and stick some arrows on it to show exactly what I mean - stay tuned!